Having only visited Saint-Tropez off-season during my year-long travels, I was eager to discover this scenic coastal town on the French Riviera before it shut down for the winter. I became further intrigued after writing a story about it for Fodor’s Travel, detailing exactly how Saint-Tropez became the hotspot it is today. This past September, we packed our bags, hopped on the train, and headed south.
Our first stop was a room with a view overlooking the Gulf of Saint-Tropez at Château de La Messardière. I share more about this dream property, here.
After lounging by the pool and indulging in the landscape’s natural beauty, with a stop at Château de LaMessardière’s Jardin Tropézina beach club, we headed back down the hill. Next stop, the town of Saint-Tropez.
To dive into the history of Saint-Tropez, we stayed at Hotel Byblos dating back to 1967. Its nightclub Les Caves du Roy was the place to be. Notable figures including Grace Kelly, Prince Charles, Romy Schneider, Lauren Bacall, Paloma Picasso, Beyoncé, Naomi Campbell, Leonardo DiCaprio and Mick Jagger have passed through the doors. Little has changed in recent years at this timeless hotel that even includes a Missoni suite.
Afternoons were spend wandering the historic town of Saint-Tropez, lost in the maze of streets while restaurants and galleries awaited evening patrons.
A visit to Domaine de Primard nestled on the banks of the Eure River just one hour from Paris makes for the ideal hideaway. This recent addition to Les Domaines de Fontenille’s bespoke hotel collection – launched in 2013 by Frederic Biousse and Guillaume Foucher – is one of their most enchanting. Set upon a sprawling 40-hectare country estate, welcome to a slower and more sustainable life. As Biousse and Foucher put it, a “meaningful, convivial and joyful” home away from home.
Wake up to a soundtrack of birdsong in one of 30 artfully decorated rooms or a plush suite. A moment of reflection on your private terrace can set a perfect mood for the day. The ground-floor living spaces invite you to cozy up with a good book or admire the carefully curated artwork. Whimsical details through the vast space including sculptural snails, birds and mushrooms, each playfully paying homage to nature. Multi-starred Chef Éric Frechon in unison with Chef Yann Meinsel respect the fruitful surroundings with their seasonal menus, both at the bistro Octave and the gastronomic restaurant Églantine. Many of the vegetables and herbs omnipresent in the dishes are homegrown and hand-picked. You’ll quickly understand why the creatively refined cuisine at Églantine is “as much for the taste buds as for the eyes.”
A stroll through the gardens with over 250 varieties of blooming roses is a treat for the senses. This fragrant setting created 30 years ago by renowned landscaper Jacques Hertz remains as he left it. Meanwhile, the neighboring greenhouse with its antique knick-knacks and gardening tools is as curious as it is charming. Take note of the hundred-year-old trees while exploring the rest of the bucolic grounds, equally enjoyed by the estate’s horses and cows.
Relaxing takes on many forms at Domaine de Primard. Take your pick from an invigorating spa treatment using all-natural products by Suzanne Kaufmann, a walk in the neighboring woods or a swim in the heated outdoor pool. However you choose to spend your time, you’re invited to end your day by the lakeside guinguette-style bar for an evening aperitif, happily disconnected. There’s no doubt that this new chapter of an 18th-century home once belonging to Catherine Deneuve reads as a harmonious one.
This story about a rural retreat just an hour from Paris was originally published in France Magazine.
In need of a bucolic break from Paris, we recently hopped on a 2-hour train to Bordeaux en route to the vineyards of Saint-Émilion. Specifically into the Premier Grand Cru world of Château Troplong Mondot.
Home became the cozy two-bedroom Vineyard House, one of the three accommodation options at Château Troplong Mondot, and best described as ‘campagne chic’. Their new 5-bedroom château, an ideal setting for friends and family, can be rented privately.
Surrounded by 43 hectares of vineyards (composed of 73% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Franc and 11% Cabernet Sauvignon) we hopped in a vintage Land Rover to explore the property and discovered a fruit, vegetable, and herb garden, as well as roosting chickens.
The lush landscape at Château Troplong Mondot invited us into a slow and sustainable life, and we welcomed every invigorating moment.
Meals paired with Troplong Mondot wines were enjoyed at the newly renovated restaurant Les Belles Perdrix, helmed by chef David Charrier. Every meal was a discovery in the creative cuisine of this talented chef, certain to be awarded another Michelin star.
What I found most impressive was that the exceptional Troplong Mondot wines were all produced sustainably. During our wine tasting we learned more about Saint-Émilion wines, some of the best in France, and also had a chance to taste the latest harvest.
Specially trained horses plow the fields on this hilltop land, the highest in Saint-Émilion. It’s the incomparable terroir that aids in producing these award-winning wines.
The Medieval and undeniably charming town of Saint-Émilion looms in the distance, just 20-minutes by foot from Château Troplong Mondot.
Mornings were spent winding our way through the paths of this scenic town, one of the most visited in France. We were privileged to have this UNESCO World Heritage Site all to ourselves.
Admiring vineyard-covered Saint-Émilion from above, we spotted Château Troplong Mondot off in the distance.
The time came to bid farewell to our home in the vineyards and set off to neighboring Montagne-Saint-Émilion.
Our first stop was to Château Corbin. This 4th generation estate is home to a pigeon house dating back to 1606.
Before returning to Bordeaux and boarding a train back to Paris, we drove past a stunning castle and couldn’t resist a visit. Château Saint-Georges proved a perfect last tasting in a wine region we will undoubtedly return to.
The first time I visited Madrid was many years ago during the university years. I decided it was time to return to the Spanish capital. On this sojourn, rather than solely play tourist, I wanted to discover the many eclectic neighborhoods and the local food scene.
SLEEP: Our journey began at Bless Hotel Madrid in the elegant Salamanca neighborhood. This design-savvy boutique hotel recently celebrated its first birthday. From this location nearby to El Retiro Park we could explore much of Madrid by foot or hop on a metro. Here too we dined at one of the culinary capital’s most gourmet addresses, Michelin-starred chef Martín Berasateguis restaurant, Etxeko. Meaning “at home” in Basque, the tasting menu was a heavenly gastronomic experience from both land and sea.
EAT: Fifteen minutes away by foot we explored the colorful Chueca neighborhood, quick to become a favorite district. San Antón Market, a three three-floor food hall offers dozens of dining options, both Spanish and international, along with a rooftop bar. Modern tapas bar Baco y Beto proved a favorite dinner spot. Closer to the hotel, La Maruca restaurant was another stellar address.
SHOP (AND EAT): On Sundays, El Rastro flea market takes over the historic La Latina neighborhood. Filled with local artisans and vintage stalls, an entire afternoon can be devoted to treasure hunting. In between shopping, some of Madrid’s oldest tapas bars entice with their simple offerings. Casa Amadeo is famous for their escargot, while Bar Santurce specializes in freshly grilled sardines. A more gourmet tapas experience was enjoyed at restaurant Juana La Loca.
VISIT: Our tour of Madrid’s most famous sights took us from Plaza Mayor, Madrid’s grand central square reconstructed in 1790 by Juan de Villanueva and unchanged since, to the Royal Palace, home to centuries-old collections of paintings, furniture, and armor. Nearby landmark Teatro Real of Madrid was once a leading theater in Europe. Next time we’ll book tickets to the opera.
WATCH: In the country where flamenco originated, we set our sights on a lively street performance in an inviting city square. For a more authentic experience, Corral de la Morería dating back to 1956 is the oldest locale in Madrid. Another notable address is Torres Bermejas.
With only a few days to bask in the culture of Madrid, there’s much more left to see and to taste. We’ll be back!
When Victor Hugo visited Biarritz in 1843, he said, “I do not know a place more charming and magnificent. I have only one fear: that it will become fashionable.” Naturally, we decided to head south and discover just how fashionable this town had become.
We arrived by train and settled into our charming hotel Villa Koegui in the heart of Biarritz. From there we began to explore the cafe-lined streets, stopping for tapas and sangria in the French Basque Country in southwestern France. Favorites became Puig & Daro for tasty small plates and local haunt Le Bar Jean which spilled onto the sidewalk every evening for apéro hour. Nearby Market Les Halles proved a welcome spot for local tastes and fresh produce.
The following day my adventurous Italian decided we should head to Saint-Jean-de-Luz by bike. Always up for a challenge, we rented bicycles and began the 10-mile journey.
Our journey began along the ocean and through the quaint village of Bidart, with a lunch stop at Hétéroclito in Guéthary.
As beautiful as the bike ride was (aside from a few steep moments), I was happy to arrive to Saint-Jean-de-Luz.
Set upon a natural harbor in the southeast of the Bay of Biscay, Saint-Jean-de-Luz is a popular beach resort.
After soaking up the sun, we met a friend for coffee in town, beneath the most picture perfect tree-lined cafe.
With one last look at Saint-Jean-de-Luz, we jumped back on the bikes, direction Biarritz, just in time for sunset and a well-deserved glass of wine.
Our last day was spent on one of Biarritz’s beaches, basking in the sun and surf that is so unique to this part of France. Maybe next time we’ll try our luck at surfing.
Imagine a city offering plenty of pedestrian streets, stellar restaurants, culture in its many forms and trams as the main mode of transport. And let’s not forget the wine. Sounds pretty ideal, doesn’t it? Welcome to Bordeaux.
Last weekend my Italian and I hopped aboard the train for a two-hour ride from Paris to Bordeaux. We had briefly visited the city en route to Arcachon & Cap Ferret, and I already felt then that it was uniquely special.
Ready to discover what I consider to be the highlights of this cultural mecca, and what has quickly become a favorite French city? If you don’t trust me, you can check in with Bordeaux Tourism.
You’ll be just minutes away from the Grand Théâtre de Bordeaux, home to both the Opéra National de Bordeaux, as well as the Ballet National de Bordeaux, and where you can book tickets to view one of these impressive performances. On weekends keep an eye out for more intimate classical music concerts starting at only 10€.
EAT: Next door to the Grand Théâtre de Bordeaux discoverLe Quatrième Mur, an elegant restaurant with renowned chef Philippe Etchebest at the helm. Both the food and the setting makes for a memorable evening.
Another dining favorite is Cromagnon, open only a year and already one of Bordeaux’s top-rated restaurants. The female chef, originally from Moldova prepares creatively infused combinations including tuna tartar and seared foisgras with a side of almond hummus. I recommend the 7-course tasting menu paired with wine.
Another dining spot that merits a visit is Bordeaux’s newly opened food hall Les Halles de Bacalan. This industrial space features food from all over the globe, including Spanish tapas, a cheese section, a healthy canteen, and of course a truffle stand. The perfect stop before or after a visit to the neighboring Cité du Vin.
VISIT: A trip to Bordeaux wouldn’t be complete without a visit to this exceptional museum and exhibition space dedicated to wine. La Cité du Vin tells many stories both in its innovative design and the permanent exhibition filling over 3,000m2. Prepare to discover the culture and civilizations of wine, ending with a glass of wine and a 360° view of Bordeaux. Make sure to stop at the wine shop on the ground floor where you can find an impressive selection of wines from around the world.
Another museum not to miss is the CAPC musée d’artcontemporain de Bordeaux. This Contemporary Art Museum, once a warehouse, boasts not only a world of artists and exhibitions that will equally intrigue and delight the mind, the rooftop proves a destination in itself. There’s also a restaurant, Café du Musée.
SHOP: Aside from buying wines from the region, there are a few spots that I’d suggest stopping by for a look, a smell, or a taste. The Parfumerie de L’Opéra features its own Bordeaux scent, as well as many other hard to find fragrances. Librairie Mollat is the first independent bookstore in France, and with a sizeable foreign language section, there’s something for every bookworm. La Maison Darricau is a four-generations-old chocolate maker, exclusive to Bordeaux. Their Grain de Sable (hazelnut praline with sea salt) flavor alone is worth the stop!
RELAX: My favorite hammam Les Cent Ciels has just opened in Bordeaux. How better to end a weekend of dining and museum-going than relaxing at a luxurious hammam, complete with body scrub, mud mask and massage?
There’s much more to discover in the elegant and culturally rich Bordeaux, but I’ll leave that until next time.
Welcome to the Royal Abbey of Fontevraud, founded in 1101 along the borders of three regions, Anjou, Touraine and Poitou. Considered the jewel of the Loire region, this is the largest surviving monastery dating from the middle ages. Also a convent, the Abbey welcomed nobles with royal blood for seven centuries. Following the revolution, Napoleon converted Fontevraud into one of France’s most brutal prisons. So it remained until 1963.
One of the first buildings in France to be named a historical monument in 1840, in 2000 the Abbey of Fontevraud was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site as part of the Loire Valley. What’s happening in the abbey these days? Let me take you on a little tour…
Set upon 34 acres, there is plenty to explore both inside and outside of this monumental abbey. The feeling while touring the grounds is one of complete tranquility and deep mysticism. Undoubtedly a magical setting.
The church once held up to 400 nuns and is now the resting place of Plantagenet Kings: Henry II and his wife, Eleanor of Aquitaine, their son, Richard the Lionheart, and Isabelle d’Angoulême, King John’s second wife.
The Renaissance style cloisters were the heart of the monastery, rebuilt in the 16th century. The simple garden of boxwood, grass and flowers is reminiscent of paradise lost, echoing the four rivers in the Garden of Eden.
The Chapter house was where the community gathered to make administative and spiritual decisions. Outside of this room, silence was imposed. The decor, intricate carvings and Renaissance murals of the Passion of Christ by local artist Thomas Pot, signifies the importance of this room.
In addition to the treasure chamber where historical objects are on view from the Abbey’s origins, the nuns’ dormitory hosts contempory art installation “Mort en été” by Claude Lévêque. Enter into a fantastical nightscape, of dreams or nightmares. Or maybe this is a trip on the Loire at sunset…
Art has become an integral part of the abbey. Every year the Royal Abbey of Fontevraud invites artists to take residence, where they can create original works in art, music and film. What an inspirational setting!
In 2014 it became possible to sleep and dine within this majestic setting with the opening of Fontevraud L’Hôtel. Stylishly modern rooms provide the perfect refuge amid this thousand-year-old heritage. Set inside a former priory, dine at the helm of one Michelin star Chef Thibaut Ruggeri at Bocuse d’Or. The restuarant alone makes the abbey worth a visit! Following your meal, take a stroll with only the light of the moon to guide you.
There is much more to highlight at the Royal Abbey of Fontevraud, including their steps toward sustainability by use of solar energy and vegetable gardens on premises. Digital tools used throughout the tour make the visit interactive and even more memorable. The rest I will leave for you to discover.
Following my day and night discovering the secrets of Mont Saint-Michel with Centre des monuments nationaux, we headed to nearby factory Saint-James, one of France’s oldest and most famous brands which continues to manufacture locally. Being a designer myself, I was interested in discovering the history and makings of this label, located in Saint-James, a commune in Lower Normandy, 20 kilometers from Mont Saint-Michel. This is the brand that made nautical stripes famous, and I was about to find out how it all began.
How and when was Saint-James born? Around 1850, the Legallais family started to spin and dye locally produced wool. They resold this wool to the haberdasheries of Brittany and Normandy, later as woolen shirts which turned into the now famous fisherman’s sweater.
In 1950, the company changed hands and new owner Julien Bonte began manufacturing cardigans and sweaters, including the famous “Real Breton Fisherman’s Sweater” knit in pure wool. This became “the seafarers’ second skin”. Along with his son and much determination, Julien grew the company, renaming it “Tricots Saint-James” in 1970.
Julien’s son Bernard grew the company further in 1977 by building a new plant with an 1,800 square meter workshop and 300 square meters of office space. Tricots Saint-James also expanded its product range to include sea-themed seasonal attire for women. They were known across France as the knitwear leader, including a 100% cotton collection.
In 1989 Saint-James celebrated its 60-year anniversary as well as 100 years of Léon Legallais. In commemoration, they modernized their logo and knit the biggest sweater in the world, 8 meters high, and 14 meters from one sleeve to the other. Impressive! In 2001 the company further expanded and shirts, jackets and trousers were added to its wares.
In 2005, Tricots Saint-James received the trophy for “Ethics and Governance” following a company staff buyout. In the words of Prime Minister Jean-Pierre Raffarin, “The Company was chosen to recognize the good governance represented by Mr. Bernard Bonte (President until December 5, 1990) transferring power and capital to the employees, as well as the significant development of the company in France and abroad. The company’s takeover project of 1990 was declared a success for both its development and staff growth.”
What I noticed while touring the factory was the meticulous attention to detail. Every employee trains for over a year, taking pride in their work as each piece is carefully crafted by hand. Observing the process from weaving the wool or cotton to preparing the final product for shipment was fascinating. It’s no wonder Saint-James has such a stellar reputation!
These days Saint-James sweaters, shirts, scarves and dresses are available not only in Mont Saint-Michel, but in Nice, Paris, Saint-Malo, Strasbourg and Lyon, as well as around the globe. Their timeless stripes and style continue to dress the world! What’s more, when you buy one of these shirts, you’re supporting the cloister restoration project! “The Tricots Saint James company is also associated with this major national heritage project with an exceptional and unique product-sharing operation. From 15 April to 15 October 2017, the “Mont-Saint-Michel Abbey” striped jerseys are on sale in the Saint James distribution network in France and abroad (Korea, USA and Japan), and in 3 bookshop-boutiques of the network (at Mont-Saint-Michel Abbey, the Alignments of Carnac and the Towers of La Rochelle). For every striped jersey sold at the price of €45, Saint James pledges to donate €2.50 to the Centre des monuments nationaux for the cloister restoration project.”
This year, to celebrate our 6th wedding anniversary we flew to Valencia. I hadn’t been since the student days and was curious to rediscover this city in Spain’s Costa Blanca. Especially with my adventurous Italian. We arrived on a Saturday and settled in to boutique hotel Vincci Mercat in the historic center. So how did we choose to spend 48 hours in this diverse city? By exploring and eating of course. It’s not everyday you’re in the land of paella… In addition to our favorite authentic Spanish dining spots, here’s my guide to this eclectic port city.
EAT LOCAL: For the best tapas head straight to Casa Montaña. Established in 1836, this local legend is both a tapas bar and a restaurant. We were lucky to find a table at the more casual bar, and loved every bite of of our seafood, meat and vegetable plates. If you’re looking for top paella, you’ll find it at La Riuà in the historic center or Casa Carmela on the beach. The latter is an institution and reservations are a must. Keep in mind paella is eaten at lunch and takes around 30 minutes to prepare. Well worth the wait!
EAT GOURMET: For our anniversary dinner we discovered Navarro, a real gem. This family run restaurant in the historic center dating from 1951, serves creative cuisine with all ingredients sourced from local markets. Whether it’s lobster paella or seafood salad with cucumber gelato, you will not be disappointed. One of the lovely sisters Guillermina, will make sure of that! Don’t forget to try their sangria, the best I’ve tasted.
SHOPPING: If you’re looking for specialties in the form of cheese and meat, head straight to the Mercado Central. Over 8,000 square meters including a separate section for fish, you’ll find almost 300 vendors selling all local produce. Even if you’re not in the mood to shop or taste, walking around this market is an experience!
EAT SWEETS: A specialty of Valencia is a drink called horchata. This sweet milky drink is made from pressed chufas (tiger nuts). While drinking it you dip large finger-shaped pastries called fartóns, and enjoy! Horchatería de Santa Catalina is the best and most charming spot in town.
VISIT: Undoubtedly the most impressive place to visit is Santiago Calatrava’s City of Arts and Sciences. This entertainment-based cultural and architectural center merits an entire day, or weekend if you can spare it. You really do feel as though you’ve entered another world.
BEACH IT: What makes Valencia such a desirable city for both locals and tourists is its beach life. Only thirty minutes via bus from the historic center you’ll find yourself lounging on the beach. After a dip in the warm water, find a shady spot and enjoy a siesta, you’ll probably need it!
In other news, I’m honored to be nominated as best expat blog! Please take a moment to vote here. Merci!
Little did I know it was possible to go island hopping on the outskirts of Paris. Today my Italian and I discovered two islands in the midst of Bois de Boulogne. It was Sunday brunch at Le Chalet des Îles that brought us there. This chalet dates back to La Belle Époque. What began as a literary café, frequented by the likes of Marcel Proust and Émile Zola, became a reputable restaurant in later years.
Le Chalet des Îles is only reachable by boat, making it even more charming and exclusive of a destination.
Once seated in the outdoor terrace, the ambiance was relaxed yet elegant. Eyeing the copious buffet, I could tell we were in for a treat. The waiter confirmed this as he came over with two glasses of champagne and motioned us towards the selection of seafood, meats, cheeses, vegetables, fruits, sweets… And so began our feast.
We ended with dessert which was a mouth-watering sight for a sweet tooth like myself. It was hard to choose!
After a final coffee and a little exploring of the chalet, we were ready for a walk around the islands.
What we discovered were secluded spots for picnicking; children playing in the grass; couples floating on the lake in rowboats. What a picturesque weekend paradise! Well worth the 30 minute bike ride from the Marais.
We could easily have spend the rest of the afternoon basking in the sun, book in hand. And this is certainly what we plan to do next time, after brunch of course.
A quick 40-minute train ride from Lisbon lands you in the picturesque town of Sintra, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We were immediately taken with the romantic landscape. Following a path away from the masses of tourists, we found a picture perfect lunch spot overlooking the Palace of Sintra, built by the Moors in the Middle Ages. With only an afternoon, we chose two fairy tale scenes to discover.
Our first stop was the Moorish Castle, or what looks like the setting for Game of Thrones. This military fort was built just before the 10th century by the North African Moors. After falling into disrepair, is was restored by King Ferdinand II in the 19th century, and has since become a major tourist attraction.
We walked its lengthy walls and up its watchtowers. From a distance the Pena Palace was visible, our next stop.
The Park and Palace of Pena make up the most important part of Sintra’s cultural landscape. Arriving to this architectural marvel, it’s easy to understand why. The brightly colored palace is a balance of nature meets 19th century Portuguese Romanticism. In a word, stunning! I quickly learned that it was rebuilt after an earthquake destroyed this former 18th century monastery. It was King Ferdinand II who transformed it into a palace, creating the summer residence of the Portuguese royal family. We spent the rest of the afternoon discovering the elaborate interior while marveling at the exterior facades. What an extraordinary work of art!
While we could certainly have stayed overnight in Sintra, I was happy to head back to Lisbon and continue our adventure. All the while during our return I wondered, how quickly could we return to Portugal?
My last trip to the Côte d’Azur was in March. I spent a little time in Nice but was eager to become better acquainted with this, the region’s capital. Aside from its Mediterranean climate, it’s a city of art and culture, another reason to fall in love with it. To properly immerse myself in the world of French art, where better to stay than at the historic hotel Le Negresco. Centrally located between Cannes and Monaco, it sits on the famous Promenade de Anglais. It is here in this National Historic Monument, that the French works of art from Louis XIII to modern art, have a home. I knew I would be in good company.
Upon entering, the grandeur of this hotel is hard to describe. I’ve stayed in many beautiful hotels around the world, but Le Negresco is in a class of its own. The Versailles Lounge alone takes your breath away, with Louis XIV’s portrait, marble floors, hand-painted ceiling, and elegant furnishings. The fireplace too, is original. I could imagine the decadent events having taken place in this salon since Henri Negresco opened the hotel in 1913, now over 100 years old.
Next I entered the Royal Lounge, centrally situated beneath a large glass dome. This is Negresco’s soul, and you can certainly feel it. Once an elegant ballroom, it’s now an elaborate event space, displaying portraits of French royalty, including Napoleon III. A stunning Baccarat chandelier provides the centerpiece. Fittingly, the hotel’s 93 year old owner Jeanne Augier’s portrait also has a place on the wall. After all, it is she who welcomes each guest to her home, which she has taken great pride in decorating. She lives on the top floor with her cat, and ensures that this private, family run hotel remains at the highest 5-star level in comfort and cuisine.
A good friend from Nice had often spoken about the restaurants at Le Negresco, particularly the vibrant and colorful La Rotonde. It’s in fact an 18th century carousel with wooden horses circling the restaurant. My eyes opened wide in amazement as I entered this space and understood immediately why it’s such a warm and welcoming place dedicated to families. The terrace opens up to the sea and this is where I chose to have lunch, accompanied by the sun. Breakfast would be enjoyed in the carousel.
Le Negresco is also known for its haute cuisine. Le Chantecler is Nice’s finest restaurant, with two stars in the Michelin Guide under the culinary expertise of chef Jean-Denis Rieubland. He defines his cuisine and style as “inspired by Provence, with the respect of its products and traditions”. This is THE place for French gastronomy, boasting a wine cellar of over 15,000 bottles, with woodwork dating back to 1751. After dinner you can unwind at the neighboring bar with live music and a good digestif.
With each of the 96 rooms and 21 suites uniquely decorated with period furniture, I was eager to take a closer look. Mrs Augier being an art connoisseur and collector, walking through the hotel and up the four floors feels much like being in a museum, with artwork from Salvador Dali and Sonia Delaunay, tapestries from Raymond Moratti and sculptures from Niki de Saint Phalle, to name a few. And the rooms? Timeless perfection.
I felt very much at home in my room overlooking the Bay of Angels and knew I would return to this Art Hotel called Le Negresco.
Is it possible to find the tranquility of the Mediterranean hidden in the Atlantic Ocean? Just west of La Rochelle sits the island of Île de Ré. Having heard much about this natural landscape boasting sandy beaches and 10 charming villages connected by cycling paths, I decided it was time to explore. This French summer hideaway seemed like the ideal weekend away. As is often our preference, we chose to visit off season.
In just over three hours we arrived via train to La Rochelle. Since 1988 the city is linked to Île de Ré by bridge, providing easy access by car or shuttle bus. We chose the latter, since the main mode of island transport is by bicyle. No car is needed. The afternoon was cloudy and windy, with hints of blue setting the scene for the next few days. We chose to stay in Saint-Martin-de-Ré, the island’s capital and what is considered one of the most picturesque of the villages. We arrived easily by bus and settled into our elegant hotel on the harbor. As it was the weekend, the village was bustling with locals and second home owners taking advantage of the Indian summer. Nineteen miles long and two to three miles long, this small island with a population of 18,000, grows to 130,000 during the summer months. Soon, I would discover its appeal.
The following day we rented bicycles and began our journey along the coast. Passing marshes and salt farms we made our way to the smallest of the villages, Loix. Thus began our love affair with the island. From there we rode south to Ars-en-Ré, a larger village with an active port. After lunch we met a few friends from Paris (fortunate are those with family homes in such a beautiful natural setting), and joined them at the beach near La Couarde-sur-Mer. On the path home, we rode through countless vineyards, the season’s harvest ripe for picking. The landscapes all so beautifully preserved. As the sun hung low in the sky, we had just enough time to get lost in the tangle of Saint-Martin’s streets.
The next day we hopped back on the bikes, first stop: oysters. I was in heaven. We sat along the coast during low tide and feasted on tender shrimp and the freshest oysters I’d eaten since our trip to Cap Ferret. A glass of local white wine to compliment. Our next stop was La Flotte, another inviting port village. We were completely smitten by these picture-perfect villages; streets filled with shuttered homes in pastel shades of green, gray and blue; ivy creeping up walls and flowers growing around every corner. The charm was immeasurable. Our journey continued to a long sandy beach close to the village of Le Bois-Plage-en-Ré. I could imagine the surfing and kite-boarding during the summer months. But now it was just us, along with a handful of couples and young families, enjoying the off-season serenity. Perfect timing, if you ask me.
When evening fell and it was time to return to Paris, we were not eager to leave the island and vowed to return. There were more villages to explore, more local pineau to taste and oysters to savor. I could now understand why Île de Ré was considered such an island paradise. A secret the French keep well, and now one I share with you. Here are my recommendations for island life in Saint-Martin-de-Ré.
SLEEP: Hôtel de Toiras is a five-star Relais & Châteaux property located on the port of Saint-Martin-de-Ré, providing a luxurious setting for a weekend away, or longer. The rooms are spacious and tastefully decorated with old French charm. The entire setting is regal and elegant. Five years ago, the hotel acquired a beautiful old mansion and created its sister hotel, Villa Clarisse. Set father back in the village, this four-star hotel offers 9 rooms set in a lush garden with a pool. Either location makes a perfect home in the heart of the island.
EAT LOCAL: Le Bistro du Marin is THE local spot, located on the port. They don’t take reservations so prepare to wait by the bar, especially if you’d like to dine outside, or en terrace. Their hearty meat dishes served with delicious home fries and fresh fish specials are certainly worth waiting for! Not to mention their homemade profiteroles. Both lunch and dinner are served daily, closed Thursdays.
EAT GOURMET: Les Embruns is just behind the port and well worth a dinner reservation (you must book ahead as they get full very quickly). This is the place for seafood, with lobster salad worth ordering, and a variety of fish dishes on the menu. For 30€ you can try the tasting menu. It’s hard to go wrong in this charmingly kitschy restaurant. Open only for dinner during the high season, closed Tuesdays.
EAT OYSTERS: Ré Ostréa is a casual lunch spot along the bike path from Saint-Martin-de-Ré heading west. It’s hard to miss with its colorful chairs, always full in the high season. Here you can dine on an assortment of seafood, including of course, local oysters. The fresh shrimps too, are heavenly! All dishes are accompanied by a glass of local wine. This is a must stop while on the island.
EAT SWEETS: La Martinière is a family run ice-cream and pastry shop. It’s a MUST stop while on the island, though we missed out on this sweet experience since it was closed for renovations. Next time!
DRINK: Ile de Ré is not so much known for their wines as for the French apéritif Pineau,a blend of wine and cognac. As it’s a sweet drink, I quickly became a fan. You can taste it at any bar or wine shop.
CYCLE: With quite a few bike rental companies to choose from, I found Cycland to be one of the best, with a great assortment of bikes and locations in 9 of the 10 villages. Definitely use bicycles to get around the island!
VISIT: Ernest Cognacq Museum is a Renaissance style mansion highlighting the historical, artistic and military heritages of the island. Worth a stop for a quick history lesson!
Moments upon arriving to Château de Chenonceau, this majestic castle with its immaculate landscaped gardens, captivated us both. Set upon the River Cher, I now understood why this was the favorite château of many. This 16th century marvel of Gothic and early Renaissance architecture stood tall against gray skies, the Marques tower across the bridge from the château. What adds to the unique history are the women who called this their home. The favorite residence of Catherine de Medici, while Diane de Poitiers was its mistress. But it was Louise Dupin who saved the château from destruction during the French Revolution, stating that “It was essential to travel and commerce, being the only bridge across the river for many miles.”
The interior of the château was equally regal. The grand ballroom once held festivities organized by Catherine de Medici in honor of her son King Henri III.
Catherine de Medici’s Renaissance bedroom was outfitted with rare Flanders tapestries from the 16th century, and a painting by Correggio representing ‘The Education of Love’.
To prove his devotion to both his wife and his mistress, King Henry II gave them each a garden. This one was Catherine’s, a design of 5 lawns centered around an elegant circular pond, “intimate” at 5,500m2.
Diane’s garden, composed of two perpendicular and two diagonal paths bordering eight large, lawned triangles is 12,000m2 in size. Each season reveals a variety of blossoms.
It was difficult to leave this stunning landscape and the stories it told. With one last glance we bid farewell.
Last spring I discovered Dijon and became enamored with the Burgundy region. This year it was time to visit the smaller town of Beaune. Our first stop was Hotel Le Cep, a historic mansion where King Louis XIV once slept. This family run 4-star hotel boasts 16th century courtyards with rooms and suites decorated in endless charm. My Italian and I immediately felt at home as we were warmly welcomed by gracious owner Jean-Claude Bernard, who spoke of his family hotel’s rich history. Just outside Le Cep’s doors, Beaune awaited to be explored. Where to go first? We headed directly to the Tourism Office to consult the experts.
Our main objective being to discover and taste the local specialties, we headed straight to the prestigious wine cellars of Bouchard Père & Fils, once the ancient castle of Beaune. Touring their cave, we found select wines aged over 100 years! Needless to say, those we tasted were quite a bit younger. Here began a weekend of tasting some of the best wines in France.
Saturday morning the sun shone brightly and we met our new neighbors at the local market. I’ve been to many markets all over the country, but this one appeared to be straight out of a film set. Were we the extras?
Our next stop was mustard factory Fallot, the last independent family mustard mill in Burgundy. We were met by Marc Désarménien whose family had started producing Fallot mustard in 1840. The mustard making process is a fascinating one as we learned, being led through the factory, chewing on mustard seeds along the way. Afterwards, tasting the dozens of flavors of Fallot mustard was an experience! My favorites being the classic grainy variety with white wine, followed by walnut, and honey and fig.
Wine and mustard aren’t the only gastronomic delicacies that have put Beaune on the map. This town too is a haven for haute cuisine. Where did we choose among the many options? Here’s my short list:
La Bussionière: Charming husband and wife run restaurant that recently moved into the center of Beaune. Selection of fresh local produce, creating delicious regional dishes.
Loiseau des Vignes: One of highly regarded Loiseau family restaurants, awarded a Michelin star in 2010 under chef Mourad Haddouche, adjacent to Hotel Le Cep. A gastronomic paradise, with 70 wines served by the glass.
Le P’tit Paradis: An intimate restaurant in the heart of the town for over 20 years, where seasonal tastes mingle with inventive dishes. Outdoor terrace for spring and summer dining.
When not wine tasting or dining, we were educating ourselves to the history of Beaune. It was in a walking tour with history buff and wine expert Kim Gagné that we learned the most. She brought us to the famous Hospices de Beaune, also called Hôtel-Dieu. Built in the 15th century and once a hospital mainly for the poor, it’s now a museum. Every November, an important charity wine auction is held within this historic building.
Before heading back to Paris, we decided a tour of the vineyards would prove the best lesson of all in wine culture. Our lovely guide Brigitte from Vineatours picked us up at Le Cep and into the villages and vineyards we drove, passing Pommard and Volnay along the way. We stopped at a private vineyard and tasted a small production of premier and grand cru, increasing our home collection of Bourgogne wines.
This charming town had won my heart. Filled with the sensations of Beaune, and plenty of mustard and wine, we boarded the train back to Paris, a quick 2 hour ride. Next time we vowed, we’ll return for a biking tour.
On July 29th I celebrated my birthday. In true leo fashion, I toasted grandly with friends in Paris. Meanwhile, my Italian, forever the romantic, planned another surprise getaway. The last three were in Italy, but this one, he hinted, was to foreign landscapes I had often dreamt of. I arrived to the airport unaware of where I would be spending the next four days. Tears of joy collected in my eyes as I saw the boarding sign: Essaouira, Morocco! In just over three hours we landed and soon after arrived to gorgeous views from our riad.
That evening I experienced my first Moroccan sunset. I was already enamored.
The following day we explored the Medina of this mid-eighteenth century fortified city.
I learned that the prominent blue covering many of the doors and windows were remnants from a Jewish past, and also the symbolic color of a port city.
I was interested in learning about the local products of the artisans, and even met a few.
The port of Essaouira, known for it’s myriad of blue boats and hundreds of local fisherman, was the most important trading port between Europe, Africa and the Americas from it’s foundation in 1770 until the first half of the nineteenth century.
Having first ridden a camel in the desserts of Rajasthan during my travels in India, I thought what better way to discover the Moroccan landscape, with it’s miles of sandy beaches.
With the winds in full force, we boarded these gentle dromedary and began our tour.
Our guide stopped to show us the ruins of an ancient Sultan palace from the 18th century.
We continued until we reached the town of Diabat, where Jimi Hendrix’ legacy lives on.
The last day I experienced a local hammam, and we spent the afternoon in the Medina, a place I had grown to love for it’s vibrancy. Many tagines later, it was time to return to Paris.
But not before one last sunset, ending a magical adventure in Morocco.
Once upon a time, in what now feels like another lifetime, I worked on Madison Avenue. Just down the street from my office sat the Library Hotel, and I would often pass it during my lunch break, wondering what lay beyond it’s scholarly doors, was there really a library? On this trip to New York, being an avid reader, I booked a room and planned to find out.
Stepping into the hotel feels like entering a library, books and card catalogs lining the walls.
What I soon discovered was that the concept of the Library Hotel is inspired by the Dewey Decimal system. As per this famous method of classification (developed by Melvil Dewey in the US in 1876) each of the 10 guestroom floors is dedicated to one of the 10 categories of the Dewey Decimal System. In turn, each of the 60 rooms are filled with books and art concerning their unique topic. With over 6,000 books, there is plenty to read!
The theme of our room was mysteries, how fitting for a mysterious night in Manhattan!
With an impressive view of the New York Public Library, I truly felt surrounded by literature.
Venturing outside, the city lights shone brightly, with regal Grand Central in the distance.
During the complimentary buffet breakfast we met fellow travelers from around the world.
Most enchanting of all are the views from the Writer’s Den and Poetry Garden on the 14th floor rooftop. By night it becomes Bookmarks Lounge, serving literary inspired cocktails.
Where better to read the New York Times or a good book, over a cup of coffee and a view.
I can’t wait to return to the Library Hotel, a literary haven in the heart of New York City. Next time the romance room?
Bruges, or Brugge as the locals call it, is considered Venice of the North. Where better to sneak away for a surprise romantic weekend with my Italian? I secretly made all the arrangements months in advance, and with only a few minor obstacles, just as the leaves were changing into spectacular shades of browns and reds, and the chill of winter lingered in the air, we boarded the train. A short 2-hour ride to discover this UNESCO World Heritage city in Belgium’s Flemish Northwest.
Home was a welcoming regal 15th Century Palace, once the residence of the Burgundian aristocracy.
Bruges greeted us with a cloudy sky and the promise of rain, setting the mood as explorations began.
We were both struck with the city’s architecture. Elegant brick buildings set upon tranquil canals.
We did our best to avoid the crowds and chose any side streets we could find, following the sun.
To get a better look at the city from above, we climbed the 366 steps of the historic Belfry Tower.
A view to savour as the ancient clock tower chimed all around us.
We also enjoyed an impressive view from the rooftop of the last remaining brewery, De Halve Maan.
What’s a trip to Belgium without a chocolate tasting? After trying quite a few, I favored Dumon.
Having taken quite a few weekend escapes since living in Paris, Bruges was one of my favorites. It’s inhabitants friendly, it’s range of dining options impressive (In’t Nieuw Museum is a must for a real local experience) and the scenery spectacular. There are quite a few museums and galleries too, satisfying all the senses. Weekend in Bruges, a success!
