La Samaritaine Reopens in Paris

Founded in 1870 by Ernest Cognacq and Louise Jaÿ, la Samaritaine became an iconic Parisian department store in the years that followed. This architectural splendor combing Art Nouveau with Art Deco, closed in 2005, apparently due to safety reasons. Today, 16 years later, La Samaritaine’s doors reopen following a 500 million euro renovation by its new owners LVMH.

Days before its official opening, I was lucky to take a tour of this monumental building located near the Louvre Museum in the heart of Paris.

Following nearly 30 months of renovations which you can read more about in my article for Hemispheres, la Samaritaine will feature a department store, luxe 5-star hotel Cheval Blanc opening on September 7th, 96 social housing units, offices, and a crèche. Let’s not forget 10 dining spots including haute cuisine and light bites.

Considered the smallest department store and the largest concept store, la Samaritaine covers 20,000 square meters. 600 brands will be featured, with 50 of them exclusively French.

What makes a visit to this luxurious shopping center so unique, is that you can stay for hours if not days, enjoying breathtaking views of Paris from within.

The crème de la crème of champagne brands and all natural beauty brands will also be available. Part of the hedonistic escape includes a heavenly spa by Cinq Monde.

Along with the Fondation Louis Vuitton, la Samaritaine is by all accounts one of the largest architectural projects in Europe. Opening hours are daily from 10 am to 8 pm and there’s barely a line to enter if you’re lucky.

Francophile Gift Guide

With the holidays right around the corner, and forever a need to find that perfect gift for the Francophile in your life, I decided to put together a holiday gift guide dedicated to online fashion, accessories, and home design, all designed in Paris, of course! Ready to shop à la Parisienne? There’s a lengthy book list for the readers, too!

PARISIAN FASHION AND ACCESSORIES

For the fashion lovers, I’ve launched fashion club Paris à la Mode in which you’ll have the chance to (virtually) meet local Parisian designers and feel as though you’re shopping in Paris. Plus, you’ll receive an exclusive discount on their wares and lots of exciting fashion news, straight from the fashion capital! Here are a few of the designers you’ll be meeting. Head over to their sites to find out what holiday promotions they are offering. Clémence Goudard is the founder of handbag label Good People, all handmade in Madagascar. Laurie Terrasse along with her mother Annie are the designers behind clothing and jewelry label Le Dressing de Zankara. My Kasia Dietz handbags you probably know by now. In honor of the holidays, take 30% off with code HOLIDAY30. Mari Samvelyan creates bespoke womenswear label Koshka Paris. Hermine of Douze Paris designs a handmade line of fine jewelry made of recycled gold.

I don’t want to exclude the men from all the fashion fun. Colorfully classic Parisian brand Erotokritos designs for both women and men and is offering 10% off with code KASIA10. Head over to Twins Concept Store for a wide array of clothing and accessories, all made in France. Use code twinsconceptstore for 10% off.

HOME DECOR WITH A PARISIAN FLAIR

If you’re looking to add a touch of Paris to your home, head over to Square Modern where you’ll discover a stunning selection of limited edition mid-century modern pillows. Take 30% off with code HOLIDAY2020. To outfit your home with more mid-century modern treasures, Maison Nordik offers a vast selection of Franco-Danish home decor from vases to armchairs. For porcelain tableware, ceramic artist Alix D. Reynis creates ethereal plates, platters, and bowls, as well as scented candles. To add the final touches to your holiday table, Madame a la Maison offers a swoon-worthy assortment of French linens and vintage tableware. Artist Marin Montagut will add whimsy to any home with his illustrated wall hangings, porcelain plates, and glasses.

TRAVEL TO PARIS BY BOOK

Since borders to Paris remain closed to those outside of Europe, what better way to travel to the French capital than via the pages of a book? Here is a selection that will certainly satisfy your Paris wanderlust.

Cook like a Parisian with Laura Calder‘s selection of French-style cookbooks, while her latest book The Inviting Life: An Inspirational Guide to Homemaking, Hosting and Opening the Door to Happiness will leave you hugging your home

Paris, My Sweet: A Year in the City of Light (and Dark Chocolate) by Amy Thomas who also wrote Brooklyn in Love: A Delicious Memoir of Food, Family, and Finding Yourself for the New Yorkers

Read all about Samantha Vérant’s love story in Seven Letters from Paris: A Memoir and discover her latest book The Secret French Recipes of Sophie Valroux.

You’ll quickly learn how kale was reborn (and regrown) in Paris in Bonjour Kale: A Memoir of Paris, Love, and Recipes by Kristen Beddard

Je T’Aime, Me Neither by April Lily Heise, author of blog Je T’Aime, Me Neither, just published her latest book There’s Only One Paris: Tales From Our Times, all about post-pandemic Paris

Experience life in Paris in The Sweet Life in Paris: Delicious Adventures in the World’s Most Glorious – and Perplexing – City by David Lebovitz whose latest book Drinking French: The Iconic Cocktails, Apéritifs, and Café Traditions of France, with 160 Recipes will keep you mixing cocktails, the Parisian way

Embark on a dreamy escape to Paris in Katrina Lawrence poetic book Paris Dreaming while discovering her dedication to the city of light via her site Paris For Dreamers

The perfect book for those in search of the hidden Paris, Don’t Be a Tourist in Paris: The Messy Nessy Chic Guide by Vanessa Grall, also the author of Don’t be a Tourist in New York: The Messy Nessy Chic Guide

When in French: Love in a Second Language by Lauren Collins just might inspire you to learn the complex French language, and fall in love in the meantime

The Paris Journal is a Parisian tale written by Nicole and Evan Robertson whose witty literary art you can find at Obvious State

Uncover Paris’s hotspots in The New Paris by Lindsey Tramuta who dedicated her most recent book The New Parisienne: The Women & Ideas Shaping Paris to the vrai Parisian woman

The Seine: The River that Made Paris is Elaine Sciolino will take you on a historic journey all along the Seine

Notre Dame de Paris: A Celebration of the Cathedral by Kathy Borrus is a love letter to Notre Dame Cathedral

Paris in Stride: An Insider’s Walking Guide by Jessie Kanelos Weiner who also illustrated New York By Foot will have you walking all over Paris via her colorful illustrations

Paris On Air details the Parisian adventures of Oliver Gee who also runs podcast The Earful Tower all about those he meets in Paris

Into a Designer’s Atelier

Many of you know I try my best to support local designers and am a big advocate of clothing and accessories that, like my handbags, are ‘Made in Paris’. One of the designers I admire most is Mari of Koshka Mashka. Recently I had the chance to stop by her atelier just outside the city where Mari along with her team, creates and produces limited-edition womenswear collections.

Mari Samvelyan, who created the Koshka Mashka brand over 12 years ago after refining her skills in Italy, is a born designer. She creates from her artist’s soul, which is even more evident when watching her in action. Her inspiration comes from her colorful imagination, from walking around Paris, and in Mari’s words, “from beautiful and high-quality fabrics”, resulting in modern and timeless clothing.

The Koshka Mashka atelier is filled with clothing ready to display in the Haut Marais boutique and rolls of fabric waiting to be turned into an elegant dress, a blouse or maybe even a jumpsuit.

Each garment is handmade by skilled artisans who even create made-to-measure pieces. Now that is luxury!

Mari’s junior designer Caroline is an invaluable asset and often creates the samples for new collections.

Mari is not the only artist in the family. Her father is a painter and shares the atelier with his daughter.

Meet Mari and discover the Koshka Mashka collection at her Haut Marais boutique at 36 rue du Poitou, where you’ll also find her father’s artwork. Or join me on a fashion tour and I’ll introduce you! Meanwhile, discover other ‘Made in Paris’ designers, here.

The Paris We Love

When I moved to Paris almost ten years ago, I took a few books as souvenirs from my father’s vast library. As a writer and fellow Francophile, I discovered a Paris guide book published in 1950 titled The Paris We Love. I often refer to this book, a series of 23 vignettes, each written by a different French writer, to discover just how much Paris has or hasn’t changed.

I particularly enjoy the chapter about my Marais neighborhood with a map detailing my frequented streets.

It was after a meeting with Fiona of Storie Shop who calls Montparnasse home, that an idea sprang to mind.

Inspired by this book with an introduction and cover by Jean Cocteau, a Kasia Dietz handbag was created!

This limited-edition Paris tote featuring a hand-painted design, leather handles and two interior pockets is available exclusively at Storie Shop. What better fashionable souvenir for fellow Francophiles?

Paris Picks : Vintage Shops

Where better to go vintage shopping than in the city that created French luxury brands Chanel, Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent, among many others. While there are second-hand shops scattered around Paris, known as dépôtvente to the locals, here are a few of my favorites. Get ready for a vintage fashion shopping spree!

La Marelle is tucked into 19th century covered passage Galerie Vivienne. This consignment shop offers quite the selection, from top ready-to-wear labels with shoes and bags to match. Head up the narrow stairwell to the second floor to find a treasure trove of luxury brands including Issey Mikaye, Miu Miu and Lanvin.

La Marelle // 25 Galerie Vivienne 75002 // +33 (0)1 42 60 08 19 // Monday-Friday 10:30-6:30, Saturday 11:30-6:30

Beneath the regal arcades of Palais Royal discover Gabrielle Geppert, dressed to perfection in her signature vintage attire. Gabrielle opened her treasure trove in 2003 and has been collecting and selling clothes, bags, jewelry, shoes, and sunglasses ever since. Here you can find an impressive array of Hermès, Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, and Christian Dior. Next door, discover her own label of “graphic poetic” including clothing, jewelry, and accessories.

Gabrielle Geppert // 32-33 Galerie Montpensier 75001 // +33 (0)1 42 61 53 52 // Monday-Saturday 11-7

Featuring a vast selection of contemporary brands, Chercheminippes has something for everyone. With seven locations all along Rue du Cherche-Midi, you can dress the whole family and decorate your home. There’s even a shop dedicated to children and another exclusively for women’s accessories.

Chercheminippes // 102, 106, 109, 110, 111, 114, 124 rue du Cherche-Midi 75006 // +33 (0)1 45 44 97 96 // Tues-Sat 10:30-5:30

Citizen Concept Store is well stocked with fashions from past to present day, including some of the most luxurious French and international labels. From scarves to shoes to handbags, this Haut Marais boutique will quickly become a favorite vintage shopping destination. Owner Laurent will greet you warmly and offer advice on his well-curated collections.

Citizen Concept Store // 8 rue du Roi Doré 75003 // +33 01 42 78 93 75 // Monday-Sunday 11-7

Discover a rainbow of vintage ware from the 70’s, 80’s and 90’s just steps away from Place de la République in the 10th arrondissement. (Read more about the neighborhood in my article for The Independent.) THANX GOD I’M A V.I.P. opened in 2008 and boasts a 200m2 (over 2,000 square feet) space where both men and women can reinvent themselves in style. They also recently added their own label to the mix.

THANX GOD I’M A V.I.P. // 12 rue de Lancry 75010 // +33 (0)1 42 03 02 09 // Monday-Saturday 2-8

La Vallée Village

With Paris being the fashion capital and home to so many timeless luxury brands, where better to shop the outlets? Namely those French brands we all covet, including Céline, Longchamp, and Lacoste. Having just returned from La Vallée Village, a 45-minute drive, bur or train ride outside of Paris, I can honestly say this is the most stunning outlet shopping center I’ve had the pleasure to visit and shop at. And with 120 international brands at at least 33% off retail prices, open 7 days a week, what’s not to love?

La Vallée Village resembles an actual village, with tree-lined pedestrian streets and pastel-colored facades.

Here’s a little secret. The famous bi-annual Paris sales or soldes as we call them, begin a week early here!

There are plenty of cafes in which to take a break from the thrill of shopping and find serenity over a plate of Ladurée macarons, or hot chocolate from La Maison du Chocolat. At new restaurant Menu Palais, taste cuisine created by expert chef Stéphane d’Aboville in an elegant setting echoing the Mini Palais in Paris.

La Vallée Village is just as fashionable as its shops, all dressed up in festive decor for the holiday season.

The highlight of my visit, aside from the shopping of course, was the lighting ceremony, in which the myriad of lanterns lit up, along with the dozens of facades lining this shopping village. It was musical group Les Parisiennes that officiated the ceremony, followed by an animated concert. (See the ladies on the balcony?)

If you’re planning your own trip to La Vallée Village, which I highly recommend, the easiest way from Paris is via RER A “Val d’Europe” Station or by Shopping Express® Shuttle Service: twice daily from Place des Pyramides.

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