Adventures in Alsace

The beauty of France lies not only in its diverse regions but in the charm and character of its diversity. Having explored many of France’s landscapes, from Normandy to the Côte d’Azur to the Basque, historically rich Alsace remained a mystery. Eager to discover this region, we boarded a train direction east. In just over three hours we made our way to the small village of Saint-Hippolyte, the perfect spot from which to immerse ourselves in the intimacy of the Alsace region. I had long dreamt of visiting this region, famous for its half-timbered houses and where Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc are among the notable white wines produced.

We settled into regal Hotel Val Vignes, the former castle of the Dukes of Lorraine turned religious college, now a hotel where retired Marists continue to reside. From our window, we had a bird’s eye view of Saint-Hippolyte, along with the bicycles that would take us on our journey.

Following a decadent dinner at Val Vignes during which we tasted local wines and produce, we fell asleep to the sounds of silence. The following morning we took to the winding vine-filled paths leading to picture-perfect villages. While the legendary Alsace Wine Route is 170 kilometers long, we only planned to bike a fraction of it.

Our first stop was a short 3.4 kilometers away to Bergheim, a fortified town that quickly won both our hearts.

The remainder of the afternoon was spent weaving our way along the bike paths, occasionally stopping to taste the nearly ripe harvest. We ended the bike tour in Ribeauvillé for a proper tasting of Alsatian wines.

The following day we ambitiously biked 20 kilometers along the wine route to Kaysersburg, well known for its authentic character and charm. We were completely smitten and spent the afternoon becoming acquainted with the town’s well-preserved 15th-century towers, bridge, and ramparts.

Being in no rush to return home to Saint-Hippolyte, we stopped at the gem that is Kientzheim, vowing to return.

We took the long road back to Saint-Hippolyte, Hotel Val Vignes standing tall beyond the stretch of vineyards. This weekend sejour was dedicated to the villages of Alsace. Our next visit to the region will include the medieval Château du Haut-Kœnigsbourg in the Vosges mountains just west of Sélestat. We’ll also make a stop at La Montagne des Singes or Monkey Mountain, home to over 200 Barbary macaques roaming free in 60 acres of forest. Next time, we’ll plan to drive.

Following our love affair with the vibrant flower-filled villages, we made our way to Strasbourg, the capital city of the Alsace region. Formally the seat of the European Parliament, we quickly noticed how, much like the entire region, the city’s architecture perfectly blended German and French influences. I was left in awe!

With a stop to the famous Cathédrale Notre Dame de Strasbourg and a walk around the city followed by a heavenly meal of tarte flambée known locally as Flammekueche, we hopped aboard a train back to Paris, fully satiated with Alsatian memories.

Biking in Burgundy

Last weekend we set off on our first post-confinement adventure. Where better than to one of my most beloved towns of Beaune in the Burgundy region. During our first trip to Beaune four years ago, we had become smitten with the history and charm of this picture-perfect town and vowed to return. Given the need for social distancing, biking through the vineyards made for an enchanting weekend escape.

The ideal setting from which to begin the biking adventures was 16th-century Hôtel Le Cep, our favored address in the heart of Beaune. This time we even had a chance to discover Le Cep’s new wine tasting cellar Saint-Félix. From here we hopped aboard electric bikes available at the hotel and hit the long and winding roads.

We quickly learned that the bike path from Beaune is clear and easy to navigate. Biking past the verdant vineyards felt intoxicating! And we hadn’t even tasted a sip of wine yet.

Our first stop along the southwest route was to Pommard, a village famous for its Côte de Beaune wine production. Soon afterward we passed Volnay and its vineyards, producing famed wines since the 6th century.

The electric bikes proved a smart move as they allowed us to bike further and longer without tiring as easily.

Having been stuck at home for months without so much as a park to visit (Paris parks remained closed during the confinement), we fluttered along the paths like birds who had just been set free. And truth be told, with nary a soul on the paths, it was only birds that accompanied us.

Our last stop before heading back to Hôtel Le Cep was for a taste of what the region is so well known for. We found the most charming spot for an apéro in the village of Meursault and indulged in a glass of Bourgogne.

The following day we decided to bike northwest of Beaune and see what unknown villages and views awaited.

Fearing we wouldn’t find an open restaurant as lunch hour had passed, we stopped at the picturesque village of Savigny-lès-Beaune, home to a château museum, a Romanesque clock tower, and a church dedicated to St. Cassien. At the only open eatery, we savored lunch paired with a heavenly glass of Hautes Côtes de Beaune.

The remainder of the afternoon was spent blissfully biking along the vineyards, stopping to inhale the views and remark on how well nature feeds the soul.

Our last awe-inspiring view was the hill of Corton, set in the middle of four famous wine-growing villages – Ladoix-Serrigny, Aloxe-Corton, Pernand-Vergelesses, and Savigny-lès-Beaune. More to explore next time.

Filled with the sights and tastes of Burgundy, it was time to return to Beaune and board the train to Paris.

Weekend in Biarritz

When Victor Hugo visited Biarritz in 1843, he said, “I do not know a place more charming and magnificent. I have only one fear: that it will become fashionable.” Naturally, we decided to head south and discover just how fashionable this town had become.

We arrived by train and settled into our charming hotel Villa Koegui in the heart of Biarritz. From there we began to explore the cafe-lined streets, stopping for tapas and sangria in the French Basque Country in southwestern France. Favorites became Puig & Daro for tasty small plates and local haunt Le Bar Jean which spilled onto the sidewalk every evening for apéro hour. Nearby Market Les Halles proved a welcome spot for local tastes and fresh produce.

The following day my adventurous Italian decided we should head to Saint-Jean-de-Luz by bike. Always up for a challenge, we rented bicycles and began the 10-mile journey.

Our journey began along the ocean and through the quaint village of Bidart, with a lunch stop at Hétéroclito in Guéthary.

As beautiful as the bike ride was (aside from a few steep moments), I was happy to arrive to Saint-Jean-de-Luz.

Set upon a natural harbor in the southeast of the Bay of Biscay, Saint-Jean-de-Luz is a popular beach resort.

After soaking up the sun, we met a friend for coffee in town, beneath the most picture perfect tree-lined cafe.

With one last look at Saint-Jean-de-Luz, we jumped back on the bikes, direction Biarritz, just in time for sunset and a well-deserved glass of wine.

Our last day was spent on one of Biarritz’s beaches, basking in the sun and surf that is so unique to this part of France. Maybe next time we’ll try our luck at surfing.

Parc de Sceaux

April in Paris isn’t complete without a picnic beneath the cherry blossoms. Even if that means taking the train (a quick ride on the RER B) just outside of the city to the Parc de Sceaux. This was our first visit to these gardens designed by Versailles’ landscape architect André Le Nôtre. And the hunt for cherry blossoms began! We finally found Bosquet Nord, and our afternoon picnic commenced. Needless to say, we were not alone!

What also draws nature lovers to this park are the elegant gardens leading to a château. It is France, after all.

Only open in the afternoon, this 17th century château owned by Jean-Baptiste Colbert, a prime address in the late 1600s, was nearly destroyed during the revolution. In the 1830s it was rebuilt at the hands of the Duke of Trévise. So what’s to see on the inside? Collections of art, porcelain and furniture recalling years long gone.

Discover the magic of Parc de Sceaux for yourself. Cherry blossoms or not, it’s worth the journey from Paris.

Giverny in Bloom

Every visit to Monet’s home and gardens in Giverny proves a unique experience in what can be considered a floral paradise. My first visit to Monet’s masterpiece was shortly after moving to Paris, my Italian in tow. I couldn’t wait to return, but next time I planned to bring my mom. I knew her artistic soul would find inspiration among the endless blossoms. How better to spend a mother/daughter day than frolicking in the gardens of one of the world’s most revered painters? Plus, Mother’s Day was just around the corner. The perfect gift.

During her recent visit we set off for a guided tour of Giverny with Paris City Vision in the comfort of a luxurious bus, avoiding the hassle of metros, trains and taxis.  En route we were presented with information about Claude Monet’s life, exactly how he ended up living in Giverny, his love of flowers and gardening, and the many phases his home underwent following his death. An ideal history lesson while driving through the bucolic French countryside. Upon arrival we were able to skip the line and enjoy more time with Monet.

As soon as we entered the property, my mom’s eyes widened in awe of the hundreds of tulips before us, each section color coordinated and perfectly manicured, just as Monet would have liked. Our tour guide led us along the paths from one garden to another, with many an anecdote to share. Gray skies are not uncommon in Normandy but luckily for us, blue skies prevailed and temperatures were reminiscent of a hot summer day.

Led by our guide, we made our way from Monet’s home and flower garden Clos Normand, to his Japanese inspired water garden, stunning in its own right. Here we discovered the Japanese bridge that appears in many of his paintings, majestic weeping willows and the famous nympheas which continue to bloom throughout the summer. What a setting!

We walked through the gardens, recalling many of Monet’s works hanging in Paris’s Musée de l’Orangerie, vowing soon to return for another look. Meanwhile, what inspired these works blossomed before our eyes, in every hue imaginable. And to think, the gardens had only begun to show off their kaleidoscope of colors! Following tulips come roses, in gardens that continue to reveal their radiant blooms for months to come.

Having been eager to visit Monet’s home and gardens ever since she and my dad first traveled to Paris so many years ago, my mom was thrilled that we took this guided tour of Giverny with Paris City Vision. And I was thrilled to make one of her travel dreams come true.

With Mother’s Day coming up, take my advice and hop aboard Paris City Vision to Giverny. You’ll thank me!

Story of a Sweater

Following my day and night discovering the secrets of Mont Saint-Michel with Centre des monuments nationaux, we headed to nearby factory Saint-James, one of France’s oldest and most famous brands which continues to manufacture locally. Being a designer myself, I was interested in discovering the history and makings of this label, located in Saint-James, a commune in Lower Normandy, 20 kilometers from Mont Saint-Michel. This is the brand that made nautical stripes famous, and I was about to find out how it all began.

How and when was Saint-James born? Around 1850, the Legallais family started to spin and dye locally produced wool. They resold this wool to the haberdasheries of Brittany and Normandy, later as woolen shirts which turned into the now famous fisherman’s sweater.

In 1950, the company changed hands and new owner Julien Bonte began manufacturing cardigans and sweaters, including the famous “Real Breton Fisherman’s Sweater” knit in pure wool. This became “the seafarers’ second skin”. Along with his son and much determination, Julien grew the company, renaming it “Tricots Saint-James” in 1970.

Julien’s son Bernard grew the company further in 1977 by building a new plant with an 1,800 square meter workshop and 300 square meters of office space. Tricots Saint-James also expanded its product range to include sea-themed seasonal attire for women. They were known across France as the knitwear leader, including a 100% cotton collection.

In 1989 Saint-James celebrated its 60-year anniversary as well as 100 years of Léon Legallais. In commemoration, they modernized their logo and knit the biggest sweater in the world, 8 meters high, and 14 meters from one sleeve to the other. Impressive! In 2001 the company further expanded and shirts, jackets and trousers were added to its wares.

In 2005, Tricots Saint-James received the trophy for “Ethics and Governance” following a company staff buyout. In the words of Prime Minister Jean-Pierre Raffarin, “The Company was chosen to recognize the good governance represented by Mr. Bernard Bonte (President until December 5, 1990) transferring power and capital to the employees, as well as the significant development of the company in France and abroad. The company’s takeover project of 1990 was declared a success for both its development and staff growth.”

What I noticed while touring the factory was the meticulous attention to detail. Every employee trains for over a year, taking pride in their work as each piece is carefully crafted by hand. Observing the process from weaving the wool or cotton to preparing the final product for shipment was fascinating. It’s no wonder Saint-James has such a stellar reputation!

These days Saint-James sweaters, shirts, scarves and dresses are available not only in Mont Saint-Michel, but in Nice, Paris, Saint-Malo, Strasbourg and Lyon, as well as  around the globe. Their timeless stripes and style continue to dress the world! What’s more, when you buy one of these shirts, you’re supporting the cloister restoration project! “The Tricots Saint James company is also associated with this major national heritage project with an exceptional and unique product-sharing operation. From 15 April to 15 October 2017, the “Mont-Saint-Michel Abbey” striped jerseys are on sale in the Saint James distribution network in France and abroad (Korea, USA and Japan), and in 3 bookshop-boutiques of the network (at Mont-Saint-Michel Abbey, the Alignments of Carnac and the Towers of La Rochelle). For every striped jersey sold at the price of €45, Saint James pledges to donate €2.50 to the Centre des monuments nationaux for the cloister restoration project.”

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