With a quick stop at Kos, another world entirely with it’s myriad of beach bars and rock music, attracting day trippers in search of a spot in the sun. We boarded the next ferry to Symi, my thirteenth island on this, our fourth Greek Island adventure. But who’s counting?
I had no idea what to expect as the ferry approached Symi, part of the Dodecanese island chain. I did know it was a gem with a complex history, occupied by Italy in the 20th century, which could explain it’s colorful facades, and still a favorite to Italians and British.
Some of the most interesting and inspiring people, I’ve met along the path of travel. Through our shared affinity for culture and adventure, our lives converge, in a place often unexpected. This was the case with Christina Haag during our recent journey to Serifos, Greece. Via my latest fascination with instagram (obsession is a strong word) I discovered another New Yorker on the island and we met for a local rakomelo. I immediately took a liking to this warm and engaging woman who had in the weeks preceding our visit, made this island her temporary home. Most of the tourists had left for Athens or their respective cities, leaving us time to enjoy what often felt like a private island.
One of the most memorable days in Serifos was spent with Christina and my Italian, light and happy, dining in a taverna overlooking a serene beach. It was there, along the banks of Platys Gialos that Christina shared her stories with me, and I with her. We spoke freely about life and love, our shared passion for Greece, New York, the Hamptons, travel. We spent the early evening driving along the scenic roads, often stopping to admire a view, with Christina as our guide. A few dinners and many conversations followed, we even joined her for a Panagyria festival with the locals.
Christina’s life read much like a book, and I was pleased to learn that she had recently written a memoir. Come to the Edge reminisces on a life of privilege in old New York City, her successes and trials as an actress, and a five year long love affair with John F. Kennedy Jr. A life lived with passion.
From Serifos to Paris, Christina’s stories continued as I lost myself in the soulful words of her memoir. I felt as though I were living these experiences myself, and could not stop reading. I was reminded of our conversations, of how she felt compelled to tell her story, rightfully so, spending months writing in the Hamptons, long after her dear friend and great love’s life had tragically ended.
Christina lives by her heart. For this, I admire her, and feel grateful to have shared our own chapter.
Christina is giving away a copy of her book to one lucky reader. To enter, follow Christina Haag on Facebook and tell us your favorite quote on love or life, below. (Random winner will be announced on November 15th, good luck!) You can also follow Christina on Twitter and Instagram. Incidentally, for those in Paris, there’s an exhibition about the Kennedy family going on until November 30th.
Within you, your years are growing. – Pablo Neruda
Our last stop on this grand island hopping adventure, was Milos. I knew little about this island other than it possessed gorgeous beaches and dramatic landscapes, soon to be discovered. We decided to settle in the small yet lively village of Polonia, not only charming but quite the foodie haven!
Our first stop, a place my Italian knew from a previous visit and was eager to show me, was a lunar landscape called Sarakiniko. Here began my love affair with Milos.
One of the most incredible landscapes I have ever seen, volcanic rocks shaped by wind and waves.
The next day we decided to be proper tourists and see it all by taking a catamaran around the island.
The journey began with the vibrantly colored village of Klima, only reachable by boat.
At many a hidden beach we would stop and swim, snorkel, take in the island’s unique beauty.
Never before had I swam in such crystal clear waters! This was the uninhabited island of Poliegos.
The ever changing colors were reminiscent of paintings by artists like Cy Twombly.
We left one paradise and discovered another. Each more spectacular than the last.
And to swim within these landscapes, in and out of the caves… a surreal experience!
We both agreed this was one of the most memorable day we spent in Greece. And there were many.
Our last sunset, from a scenic spot appropriately named Utopia, with a promise to return.
As anyone who has traveled around the Greek islands knows, you must plan your island hopping well, as boats tend to be infrequent. Years ago in Fourni, no boat arrived or left for three days due to rough seas. All part of the adventure! In order to make our way to Serifos in the western Cyclades, we had to stop at Paros, but decided to explore the smaller island of Antiparos instead.
After discovering what proved to be a charming village with chic boutiques, (ideal for my bags), we boarded an early morning boat for Serifos, less touristic and more off the beaten path. Perfect.
What’s most unique and spectacular about Serifos (though each island possesses it’s own unique charm) it that the Hora (main village) sits high above the island, at once dramatic and regal.
With a car in tow, we began to explore the island, enjoying the views from the Hora to the port.
And what did we find when we drove down the long windy roads with barely a sign or soul around?
Remote beaches boasting crystal clear waters, surrounded by natural cliffs. Truly a paradise found!
It was at this church at Agios Sostis, that we joined the locals for a religious festival, a Panageria.
What greatly adds to the feeling of Greece are the tavernas serving fresh seafood. Simple pleasures.
We happily spent one week in Serifos and were sorry when it came time to part. But Milos awaited…
It’s not easy to capture the feeling of Greece, but I will try my best to share these two magical weeks. Hence my absence, I was happily lost in the Greek Isles. As those who read my blog know, Greece is close to our hearts. It’s one of my Italian’s preferred destinations, (he has been to over 15 islands in the Cyclades, and I to 10.) This is also where he proposed, and where we spent our honeymoon.
Our third island-hopping adventure landed us in Mykonos. We boarded the first boat to Koufonisia, part of the smaller Cyclades and what is becoming a hotspot among Greeks and foreigners alike.
It is here we discovered gorgeous beaches, each with it’s own taverna, all within walking distance.
And the views? This was our morning breakfast spot. Heaven!
The island is small and we got to know it (and love it) in only three days. Unlike most of the islands, no car or motorbike is needed, and boats or buses transport you from port to beach, or to an uninhabited island which we also visited. The people of Koufonisia are known to be some of the most hospitable in Greece, and the food was a perfect mix of freshly caught seafood and fine dining.
It was not easy to say goodbye, but the paradise called Serifos awaited…
Our Greek island-hopping adventures began in Santorini, the most touristic (and one of the most beautiful) islands in the Cyclades. From there a quick boat ride to Folegrandros, much less touristic, but not exactly undiscovered. Onwards to the more remote Fourni Islands. Our last stop on what became our gradual ‘escape from civilization’, was the smallest Greek Island. Upon hearing about this unknown island from a well traveled Italian couple, both my Italian and I were intrigued. Several days, three islands and four boats later, we arrived to Marathi.
Could there be a place more removed from the world than Marathi? I imagined not. The population consists of two families who own the three tavernas. We decided to stay in the more upscale of the three, it was our honeymoon after all. Meanwhile, I was determined to find out as much as I could about the life and history of the island. Did I succeed in our three day visit? Not so well. I learned the most from a Polish waitress who worked for the pirate. Yes, there did live a pirate on the island, one of the three inhabitants in the winter season. The secrets of Marathi will remain buried.
In what felt like the middle of nowhere, we were undoubtedly detached from all manners of distractions. Aside from an occasional imposing yacht, an island in itself, docking in the neighboring waters. And then there was one surprising night of Greek music and dancing in our taverna… who knew we were on a private party island? The greatest calm was found at the old settlement, high on a hill above the harbour, once home to a dozen or so inhabitants before WWII.
What went on in this space so many years ago?
Unfortunately the lonely wild goat did not prove a helpful tour guide.
Only the church stands proudly intact at it’s vantage point.
It was here that we watched our last Greek sunset. Perhaps the most magical of all.
I had no idea what to expect as the ferry approached Symi, part of the Dodecanese island chain. I did know it was a gem with a complex history, occupied by Italy in the 20th century, which could explain it’s colorful facades, and still a favorite to Italians and British. 
