When Victor Hugo visited Biarritz in 1843, he said, “I do not know a place more charming and magnificent. I have only one fear: that it will become fashionable.” Naturally, we decided to head south and discover just how fashionable this town had become.

We arrived by train and settled into our charming hotel Villa Koegui in the heart of Biarritz. From there we began to explore the cafe-lined streets, stopping for tapas and sangria in the French Basque Country in southwestern France. Favorites became Puig & Daro for tasty small plates and local haunt Le Bar Jean which spilled onto the sidewalk every evening for apéro hour. Nearby Market Les Halles proved a welcome spot for local tastes and fresh produce.

The following day my adventurous Italian decided we should head to Saint-Jean-de-Luz by bike. Always up for a challenge, we rented bicycles and began the 10-mile journey.

Our journey began along the ocean and through the quaint village of Bidart, with a lunch stop at Hétéroclito in Guéthary.

As beautiful as the bike ride was (aside from a few steep moments), I was happy to arrive to Saint-Jean-de-Luz.

Set upon a natural harbor in the southeast of the Bay of Biscay, Saint-Jean-de-Luz is a popular beach resort.

After soaking up the sun, we met a friend for coffee in town, beneath the most picture perfect tree-lined cafe.

With one last look at Saint-Jean-de-Luz, we jumped back on the bikes, direction Biarritz, just in time for sunset and a well-deserved glass of wine.

Our last day was spent on one of Biarritz’s beaches, basking in the sun and surf that is so unique to this part of France. Maybe next time we’ll try our luck at surfing.