The Art of Chocolate

January 22, 2020

A self-professed chocoholic who rarely says no to dark chocolate, especially if it’s filled with praline, I was thrilled to discover the art of making this decadent sweet treat, first introduced to France in 1615, as a gift to Louis XIII from his Spanish princess. I was eager to learn the tricks of the trade from friend and chocolate connoisseur Lisa Allen of Tarts & Truffles. Lisa’s chocolate-making workshops take place at one of my favorite independent chocolate shops, Edwart Chocolatier near the Louvre.

The workshop began with Lisa teaching us how hazelnut praline is made. With the smell alone, I was in heaven.

The next step on this chocolate journey was to melt the chocolate and prepare it to meet with its praline center.

I must say that while Lisa’s adept hands make ‘tempering’ the chocolate look easy, it’s a process! What resulted from this sweet experience were the most divine truffles, covered in coconut flakes or my personal favorite, topped with almonds. The best part of all was feasting on these homemade creations. We also tasted Edwart’s exquisite array of chocolates in flavors ranging from Corsican lemon to curry. Ask to try their single origins chocolate too, from Venezuela and Papua New Guinea.

If you’re on the market for chocolate in Paris, which you certainly should be, here’s my list of favorite chocolate shops. Or simply contact Lisa and she’ll give you an expert chocolate tour.

Manifesto Market

June 8, 2019

My first visit to Prague many years ago recalled memories of strolling in the picturesque Old Town and crossing imposing Charles Bridge stretching along the Vltava river with a view of the 9th century Prague Castle in the distance. A few weeks ago I returned to Prague to discover a city that has recently taken on a new identity as a gastronomic and cultural capital, thanks in large part to the team behind Manifesto Market.

Located in the heart of the Florenci district, Manifesto Market has turned a former wasteland into the city’s first cashless pop-up market. The brainchild of Martin Barry, a landscape architect from New York who also helms non-profit reSITE, Manifesto has become exactly what Martin envisioned. Effectively, he created “a universe where people come together to share good food and culture and become inspired.” Meeting Martin and his vivacious Czech colleague Radka felt like reconnecting with old friends.

The moment I entered Manifesto Market, the vibrant energy was palpable. A sense of belonging was felt throughout the inviting space, built almost overnight from 27 containers. Music filled the light spring air as families and groups of friends gathered to feast on cuisine from all corners of the globe. I couldn’t wait to taste the over twenty food stands, from gourmet Italian dishes to Mexican, Vietnamese and Japanese street food, not to mention American BBQ and Israeli specialties including my favorite, hummus!

With the goal of trying every cuisine, I dined to my heart’s content over the few days I spent in Prague, impressed by the quality and selection in food and drink, and all at street food prices. By night I sipped on expertly concocted cocktails from one of the three bars and couldn’t leave without trying the local beer brews. Even my sweet tooth was satiated with mini pancakes, a decadent take on Dutch poffertjes, and rolled ice-cream, available even in non-dairy vegan varieties. Manifesto Market is undoubtedly a gastronomic paradise! What’s more, the market is cashless making it all that much more efficient.

Focused on culture, Manifesto Market boasts a book store with a notable selection of reading material for both adults and kids. Among the food stalls there’s also a boutique featuring sustainable design, and a florist. The weekend line-up includes feature films and live music or a superstar DJ.

Today marks one year since the opening of Prague’s Manifesto Florenci, and only a few weeks until the second outpost, Manifesto Smichov opens on July 19th. Even more reason to visit this cultural mecca. Me? I’ll be back!

Happiness in Italian

July 1, 2018

Welcome to La Felicità, the latest outpost by the Big Mamma group known for bringing some of the best Italian eateries to the French capital since 2015. Included in their expansive line-up are Ober Mamma in Oberkampf, East Mamma in Bastille, Big Love Caffè in the Marais, Pizzeria Populare in Bourse and Mamma Primi in Batignolles. My Italian and I were invited to the grand opening several weeks ago, what a gourmet fête!

Set within 4,500 square meters in a former railway station, La Felicità now reigns as the biggest restaurant in Europe. Its home in Station F, Paris’s hub for innovation and creativity in the 13^th arrondissement, has quickly become a destination for entrepreneurs and tourists alike. A fitting location for a fellow start-up. Trains part of the décor, the shabby-chic design itself is worth the visit.

With five kitchens and three bars including a beer garden, plus a food market, there’s plenty to feast on, both inside the impressive space and along the enormous sun-drenched terrace. Some of La Felicità’s specialties include pizza from a wood-burning oven, creamy burrata and plenty of savory pasta dishes, truffles optional. To satisfy every palate from both land and sea, there’s a seafood bar and a USA-inspired burger shack. Don’t leave without trying a spritz cocktail in seasonable flavors including peach, one of the best in Paris.

Italians take the sweet side of life aka la dolce vita, very seriously. La Felicità’s bakery Le Panificio, serves fresh focaccia while their Napolitan-style caffeteria takes pride in their espresso and selection of cakes and cookies. An ice-cream cart serves homemade gelato throughout the day.

Translated to “happiness”, La Felicità’s menu includes much more than food. There’s a full program of events taking place throughout the year, including concerts, outdoor festivals and activities for kids. Let’s not forget weekend brunch featuring live music. Read this and more of my Paris features on Bonjour Paris.

La Felicità // 55 Boulevard Vincent Auriol, 75013 // Mon-Fri 12:15-2:30 // Wed-Fri 6-12 // Sat 12-1am // Sun 12-11

eating adventures

May 21, 2014

During my around the world travels I’ve experienced many eating adventures, from street food in Vietnam to yak in Tibet. And let’s not forget bone marrow in China and lardo in Italy. (Delicious!) But I have to admit, the most fun I’ve ever had eating was in San Sebastián. This foodie mecca is home to two of the best restaurants in the world, but what we were after were the pinxtos, the Basque version of tapas. The old quarter is filled with pinxtos bars, dozens lining every street, all attempting to entice you with an array of these taste bites lining the counters.

On our first night we followed our feelings as my Italian would say, or was it our eyes and mouths. And with each bar a glass of rioja or local cider. In less than 24 hours I was hooked!

Day two we did a little research and discovered that our feelings, and palates, had led us well. The eating adventures continued as we were determined to try as many pinxtos bars as possible.

By day three, we had eaten at nearly a dozen pinxtos bars, drank many a glass of local wine, over-indulged in calamari and octopus and I even convinced my Italian to try pigs ears. It being our last day, we decided to return to our favorite bars. For those planning a trip to San Sebastián (which I highly recommend for anyone who loves to eat) here is the list of pinxtos bars that will keep us coming back. I’m already looking forward to the next trip!

Bar Zeruko : most innovative and experimental of the pinxtos bars

Atari Gastroteka : the gastronomic version of pinxtos

Borda Berri + La Cuchara de San Telmo : pinxtos made fresh to order (both run by same owner)

Bar Sport : don’t let the name of lack of ambiance fool you!

La Viña : home to the best cheesecake in the world!

The only rule to remember when pinxtos bar-hopping, the more napkins on the floor, the better!

epicurean extravaganza

December 16, 2013

Recently I was invited to what can truly be considered a food lover’s paradise, the inauguration of the brand new La Grande Épicerie de Paris. This uber gourmet food hall located within the Le Bon Marché is the spot for anything indulgent, from everywhere in the world. And indulge we did!

The night commenced with a presentation by the bakers and butchers, fit for a king. Champagne flowed, accompanied by plentiful platters of fois gras, oysters, and cheeses, France’s finest. It wouldn’t be a party without a selection of fine Italian hams… and a heavenly chocolate fountain!

The fruits, vegetables and produce were elegantly displayed like works of art.

I felt grateful to live in a country that celebrates food so ceremoniously!

The icing on the cake, aside from the many desserts we inhaled (including macarons and freshly dipped ice-cream pops), was DJ & comedian Ariel Wizman, spinning tunes in chef Jean-Jacques Massé’s new restaurant La Table. This was certainly the epicurian extravaganza of the year!

Read more about the grand new epicerie on France Today.

diner à la française

June 26, 2013

For those living outside of France, or even for many of those on the inside, what does it really feel like to dine with the vrai français? How do the French dine, what do they serve and with which formalities, what do their homes look like? Personally, I’m lucky to have a few dear French friends who have graciously opened their homes to me. But I still often wonder what secrets are discovered at these French dinners.

By the clever collaboration of Renaud Maigne who often traveled for work and was tired of dining alone, “The thing we remember the most is the personal exchange we’ve had with the locals who tell you about their country and traditions.”, and Matthieu Heslouin who wanted to make the foreign dining experience accessible to all, “Thematic dinners are as numerous as the passions of the hosts. To each his own dinner! Or in French, à chacun son dîner!” Thus VoulezVousDîner was born! Dinner parties for all to attend, all around the world.

I was eager to attend one of these Paris dinners, and chose Diner Concert Chez Sacha. Gourmet dinner followed by a piano concert? Yes please! My Italian and I arrived first, how very un-French of us, and we became acquainted with our lovely host Sasha and her friend Carl, who generously poured the champagne. Another French couple arrived and we were seated at a table set with plates designed by Sacha herself. Before the food was even served, I was impressed!

Once dinner began we all became well acquainted and shared various musings on life in Paris, both from the perspective of locals and foreigners, while Sacha told us all about her history with cooking and her passion for pottery. Each course was creatively inspired, delicious and plentiful, paired with select wines and ending with dessert… and cheese bien sûr!

To end the evening, Sacha performed a few piano pieces as we sipped on a digestif. It was certainly a night to remember! Looking forward to my next VoulezVousDîner, in Paris or elsewhere.

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