Paris Picks : Vegetarian Restos

September 1, 2019

Could veggie burgers with sweet potato fries become the new steak frites? In recent years, vegetarian restaurants have been sprouting up all over the French capital. While most farm to table restaurants offer vegetarian plates, seasonal vegetables decorating the plats du jour in ample measure, these eateries are havens for veggie lovers. Many even provide a hearty selection of vegan and gluten-free options. For more gluten-free options in Paris, head over to blog Baci di Dama.

Founded in 2007 by chef Christel Dhuit and later expanded in 2009, Soya Cantine Bio is a vegetarian haven just steps away from Canal Saint Martin in Paris’s 11^th arrondissement. With lunch and dinner combining organic seasonal produce – couscous dishes and endless vegetable plates including homemade garam masala among the options, even vegans will be well fed. As for the sweet side, all pastries are gluten-free.

Soya // 20 Rue de la Pierre Levée, 75011 // Sunday 11:30-4pm, Tuesday 7-11pm, Wed-Friday 12-4pm, 7-11pm, Saturday 11:30-4pm, 7-11pm

Lula Cantine Bio & Veggie evolved of the love of healthy organic eating by Colombian born sisters Luciana and Natalia. Since 2014, they share their seasonal and creative vegetarian recipes, many inspired by their South American roots, with passion added to every plate. It’s difficult to choose between Fajitas and the chock-full of veggies Lula Bowl. Sunday Brunch is 100% vegan and gluten-free and full of decadent albeit healthy surprises.

Lula Cantine Bio & Veggie // 216 Rue Saint-Maur, 75010 // Sunday 11:30-4pm, Monday-Saturday 9-3pm

Passionate about healthy living and gourmet organic cuisine, Agathe opened the first Café PINSON in the North Marais in 2013. Designed by interior superstar Dorothée Meilichzon, it’s hard not to feel at home while sipping your matcha latte. Both a café and restaurant, Café PINSON serves a daily changing menu of 100% organic vegetarian food with plenty of options for vegans and juices galore. You can also find a selection of their goodies at Le Bon Marché.

Café PINSON // 6 Rue du Forez, 75003 // Monday-Friday 9am-10pm, Saturday 10am-10pm, Sunday 10am-6pm

The wild revolution began on Rue Charlot in 2015. Since then, Emma Sawko has continued to expand her health-food endeavor Wild and the Moon, opening outposts on Rue Amelot, in the 9^th arrondissement and most recently at Place du Marché Saint-Honoré. The 100% organic, locally sourced menu complete with cold pressed juices is one of Paris’s hotspots for gluten-free and vegan food, from morning to night. Whether you’re in the mood for a turmeric latte or thai curry, these inviting addresses will serve you well.

Wild and the Moon // 19 Place du Marché Saint-Honoré, 75001 // 25 rue des Gravilliers, 75003 // 55 Rue Charlot, 75003 // 4 Rue du Helder, 75009 // 138 rue Amelot, 75011 // LAFAYETTE ANTICIPATIONS 9 rue du Plâtre, 75004

Named in tribute to their mother and fueled by a love of healthy and sustainable living, brothers David and Adrien opened Le Potager de Charlotte in 2015. Potager meaning vegetable garden, the menu combines organic farmers market produce to create epicurean plant-based cuisine. Their two addresses in the right bank serve seasonal specialties including chickpea and rice pancakes and coconut yogurt. Ask about their heavenly Sunday brunch!

Le Potager de Charlotte // 12 rue de la Tour d’Auvergne 75009 // 21 rue Rennequin 75017 // Wednesday-Saturday 7-10:30pm, Friday-Saturday 12-2:30pm, Sunday 11-3pm

Manifesto Market

June 8, 2019

My first visit to Prague many years ago recalled memories of strolling in the picturesque Old Town and crossing imposing Charles Bridge stretching along the Vltava river with a view of the 9th century Prague Castle in the distance. A few weeks ago I returned to Prague to discover a city that has recently taken on a new identity as a gastronomic and cultural capital, thanks in large part to the team behind Manifesto Market.

Located in the heart of the Florenci district, Manifesto Market has turned a former wasteland into the city’s first cashless pop-up market. The brainchild of Martin Barry, a landscape architect from New York who also helms non-profit reSITE, Manifesto has become exactly what Martin envisioned. Effectively, he created “a universe where people come together to share good food and culture and become inspired.” Meeting Martin and his vivacious Czech colleague Radka felt like reconnecting with old friends.

The moment I entered Manifesto Market, the vibrant energy was palpable. A sense of belonging was felt throughout the inviting space, built almost overnight from 27 containers. Music filled the light spring air as families and groups of friends gathered to feast on cuisine from all corners of the globe. I couldn’t wait to taste the over twenty food stands, from gourmet Italian dishes to Mexican, Vietnamese and Japanese street food, not to mention American BBQ and Israeli specialties including my favorite, hummus!

With the goal of trying every cuisine, I dined to my heart’s content over the few days I spent in Prague, impressed by the quality and selection in food and drink, and all at street food prices. By night I sipped on expertly concocted cocktails from one of the three bars and couldn’t leave without trying the local beer brews. Even my sweet tooth was satiated with mini pancakes, a decadent take on Dutch poffertjes, and rolled ice-cream, available even in non-dairy vegan varieties. Manifesto Market is undoubtedly a gastronomic paradise! What’s more, the market is cashless making it all that much more efficient.

Focused on culture, Manifesto Market boasts a book store with a notable selection of reading material for both adults and kids. Among the food stalls there’s also a boutique featuring sustainable design, and a florist. The weekend line-up includes feature films and live music or a superstar DJ.

Today marks one year since the opening of Prague’s Manifesto Florenci, and only a few weeks until the second outpost, Manifesto Smichov opens on July 19th. Even more reason to visit this cultural mecca. Me? I’ll be back!

Gourmet Street Food in Paris

November 18, 2018

Leave it to culinary genius Thierry Marx to create street food, the gourmet and organic version that is. I had the good fortune of meeting this two-Michelin star chef a few years ago during a day discovering his Parisian life, and became an instant fan. Welcome to his latest venture opened just weeks ago, Marxito, a collaboration between Marx and Marseilles designer Ora Ito.

What exactly is Marxito? According to Marx, it’s “two softly puffed buckwheat buns filled with products mainly from plant origin, coming from organic agriculture”. Naturally, I had to try for myself.

These sweet and savory delicacies are all made to order, fusing Brittany (Marx’s hometown) with Japan. Out of the four sandwich options, I chose pink salmon pickle (smoked salmon, avocado, Japanese radish, romaine lettuce, miso sauce and basil), with a side of quinoa salad and Japanese tea. Heavenly!

Not to mention the matcha crepe that followed. Hard to resist, considering Marx’s reputation for desserts.

What takes the cake at Marxito is not only favoring small, local producers but the staff, hired from Thierry Marx’s school, Cuisine Mode d’Emploi(s), which helps the unemployed gain new skills in the culinary world.

Marxito // 1bis Rue Jean Mermoz, 75008 // +33 (0)1 47 20 92 02 // Monday-Friday 8-5:30

Happiness in Italian

July 1, 2018

Welcome to La Felicità, the latest outpost by the Big Mamma group known for bringing some of the best Italian eateries to the French capital since 2015. Included in their expansive line-up are Ober Mamma in Oberkampf, East Mamma in Bastille, Big Love Caffè in the Marais, Pizzeria Populare in Bourse and Mamma Primi in Batignolles. My Italian and I were invited to the grand opening several weeks ago, what a gourmet fête!

Set within 4,500 square meters in a former railway station, La Felicità now reigns as the biggest restaurant in Europe. Its home in Station F, Paris’s hub for innovation and creativity in the 13^th arrondissement, has quickly become a destination for entrepreneurs and tourists alike. A fitting location for a fellow start-up. Trains part of the décor, the shabby-chic design itself is worth the visit.

With five kitchens and three bars including a beer garden, plus a food market, there’s plenty to feast on, both inside the impressive space and along the enormous sun-drenched terrace. Some of La Felicità’s specialties include pizza from a wood-burning oven, creamy burrata and plenty of savory pasta dishes, truffles optional. To satisfy every palate from both land and sea, there’s a seafood bar and a USA-inspired burger shack. Don’t leave without trying a spritz cocktail in seasonable flavors including peach, one of the best in Paris.

Italians take the sweet side of life aka la dolce vita, very seriously. La Felicità’s bakery Le Panificio, serves fresh focaccia while their Napolitan-style caffeteria takes pride in their espresso and selection of cakes and cookies. An ice-cream cart serves homemade gelato throughout the day.

Translated to “happiness”, La Felicità’s menu includes much more than food. There’s a full program of events taking place throughout the year, including concerts, outdoor festivals and activities for kids. Let’s not forget weekend brunch featuring live music. Read this and more of my Paris features on Bonjour Paris.

La Felicità // 55 Boulevard Vincent Auriol, 75013 // Mon-Fri 12:15-2:30 // Wed-Fri 6-12 // Sat 12-1am // Sun 12-11

Dining with Madame Eiffel

May 17, 2018

With so many haute cuisine options in Paris, it’s hard to decide where to dine. Yet very few of these addresses will include a gourmet date with Madame Eiffel. It’s at Maison Blanche from atop the Theatre des Champs Elysees on avenue Montaigne that you can enjoy an intimate encounter with this Parisian icon, over a decadent dinner where you dine like a star! This elegant address has been wooing its clientele for over 28 years.

Both from the inside dining room of Maison Blanche‘s Montaigne terrace to the more confidential outdoor George V terrace, the panoramic views of Paris are captivating. At once you’ll feel a part of the city from high above its characteristic rooftops.

Since March 2015 Executive Chef Fabrice Giraud has been concocting creative dishes at this elite restaurant, influenced by Mediterranean flavors and world travels. In his words, “Human contact and historical places have always influenced my choice. Maison Blanche is a magical and unique place which attracted me.” Prepare for the feast of your life! Chef Giraud has just created his new seasonal tasting menu including a savory monk fish plate with zucchini cream. The rest I will leave for you to discover.

I recommend booking for dinner and staying until Madame Eiffel illuminates the city with her radiant light. Come sunset, there is plenty of toasting to be made at Maison Blanche, with some of the best champagne and wine on offer. Here you can truly experience the French joie de vivre.

Prepare to capture memorable moments with Madame Eiffel, certain to charm you with her elegance and grace.

Hotel Grands Boulevards

March 2, 2018

I’m always on the lookout for new boutique hotels, particularly when we travel, but even in Paris. Especially if the hotel is designed by Dorothée Meilichzon. Just one month ago l’Hôtel des Grands Boulevards opened it’s doors in the heart of the city, in a space that once housed a cinema before becoming a bourgeois residence. Nestled between the historic Bourse and trendy Sentier neighborhoods, with the energy of Strasbourg Saint-Denis just steps away, this masterpiece by the Experimental Group merits dinner, drinks and an overnight.

Taking the elevator up to the fourth floor, we settled into one of the fifty rooms, a spacious design haven reminiscent of a chic Parisian apartment. The art deco bed exhibited a regal canopy amid natural elements, including exposed wood beams. The plush feather bed was fit for a queen, Marie Antoinette to be exact. She would have approved of the bathroom too.

Throughout the hotel, Dorothée Meilichzon kept the building’s history intact, including select elements from Louis XVI’s era. What a clever use of vegetation, trellises, gates and a fountain to evoke a rustic atmosphere reminiscent of the 18^th century balanced with the splendor of the “Grand Siècle”.

We eagerly dined at the Grand Restaurant, a collaboration with celebrated chef Giovanni Passerini, set within a covered courtyard. Scoring seats at the bar, we feasted on a menu of French-Italian country classics including steak tartar with hazelnuts and smoked ricotta, and homemade gnocchi with lamb stew. Délicieuse! (The following morning’s gourmet breakfast of homemade granola and seasonal jams was also remarkable.)

The restaurant’s bathroom revealed an inviting mélange of tiles and wallpaper, creating a world of its own.

I had my eye on the dimly lit cocktail bar, featuring creative libations based on their strength, with or without spirits. Having opened Experimental Cocktail Club in 2007, they are known for their cocktails, after all.

I’m already looking forward to returning to Hotel Grands Boulevards, a calm design haven in the heart of Paris.

Les Gets

January 15, 2018

Every winter I try to discover another mountain destination where I can breathe in fresh alpine air, dine on savory meals (including lots of cheese) and practice skiing. While last year found me in Courchevel, this year I became completely charmed by Les Gets, a Savoyard village in the Rhône-Alpes region of southeastern France. What makes this village between Lake Geneva and Mont Blanc so special is the intimacy you feel upon arrival. Les Gets is not merely an artificial ski station but a mountain destination filled with soul, all year round.

I immediately felt at home at the charming four-star hotel La Marmotte. Family run since 1947, the hotel is situated at the foot of the slopes and has in recent years expanded to include 63 rooms, four restaurants (including one in the mountains) and the luxurious Séréni-Cimes Spa. La Tapiaz hotel was added in 2011 offering an additional eight chalet-style rooms. I was impressed with the design and comfort of each of the unique rooms, ideal for a romantic getaway with plenty of suite options for families. And the restaurants… Aside from trekking up to the mountains for purposes of sport, no need to leave the hotel. Not to mention the spa where I could easily spend every evening between the hammam and jacuzzi. Heaven!

From La Marmotte I headed up for a tour of the landscape, this time via racket walk. Harder than it sounds!

With plenty of snowfall, the views were breathtaking! I could imagine the stunning scenes come springtime.

Appearing like an oasis was La Marmotte’s restaurant La Paika, high up on the slopes and well worth the climb to feast on traditional dishes and fish grilled on their wood-fire barbecue.

I forced myself to leave the hotel to explore the village, and stopped to buy a few local Haute-Savoie specialties, including cheese. Apparently my fondue feast at restaurant La Pivotte only whet my appetite.

What this gem of a village also has to offer is the impressive Mechanical Music Museum. Opened in 1988, this museum houses over 550 musical instruments from around the world, including chimes, street organs and mechanical pianos. Prepare to be both amazed and entertained! Yet another reason to plan a trip to the mountain haven of Les Gets.

Torre Aurora in Cinque Terre

August 20, 2017

Having just returned from holidays in Italy, starting with Sardinia and ending with beautiful moments spent with friends and family in Cinque Terre, I have much to share from the last three weeks. Let me begin with the newest addition to my Insider’s Guide to Monterosso. A must for anyone planning a visit. Torre Aurora has quickly become one of my favorite places for an aperitivo with a view. In all my travels I have yet to discover such stellar cocktails combined with such stunning views.

Opened just two months ago, this bar/restaurant is set in a historic 13th century tower, and run by a local.

From the many terraces you have stunning views of Monterosso, as well as all of Cinque Terre in the distance.

You also have a direct view of one of my favorite restaurants L’Ancora della Tortuga, as well as the beaches of Monterosso.

So what’s on the menu at Torre Aurora? Aside from custom cocktails including the famous Aperol Spritz, you can order small plates of local anchovies or octopus salad. Arrive for dinner and feast on Ligurian specialties including fresh pasta and fish. Just be sure to make a reservation!

In case you’re looking for me during the early evening hours next spring or summer, this is where I’ll be.

PARIS PICKS : Sunday Brunch

July 28, 2017

With Sunday brunch slowly but surely becoming a weekend ritual in Paris, I thought I’d share a few of my favorite spots. Little makes me happier than brunching with friends, or a long leisurely brunch with my Italian and The New York Times. If only there could be a spot that serves brunch daily… Oh wait, there is!

Newly opened Holybelly 5, neighboring Holybelly 19 in the 10th, owned and run by a lovely expat couple, serves up a brunch menu every day from 9am to 5pm. My dish of choice is their Savoury Stack, pancakes with fried eggs, bacon, homemade bourbon butter and maple syrup. Sweet and savory perfection! Brunch on a Wednesday? Why not! Also to note, their coffee is some of the best in Paris, my Italian will agree.

Holybelly 5 // 5 Rue Lucien Sampaix, 75010 // Daily 9-5 (last orders at 4) // No reservations

Another brand new eatery serving a daily brunch menu is Café Méricourt, sister to Café Oberkampf. Also owned by a charming expat couple. A breakfast roll and green eggs and feta are two breakfast (or lunch) options, as is the green bowl with quinoa, spinach and avocado, a fast favorite! The decor is bright and welcoming, and with its overnight success reservations are recommended. Here too you’ll enjoy a good cup of joe.

Café Méricourt // 22 rue de la Folie Méricourt, 75011 // Wednesday-Sunday 10-6

If you like eggs, then you love Eggs & Co located in the heart of Saint-Germain. Where better to try eggs benedict, for breakfast or lunch, 6 days a week. This charming refurbished barn house will make you feel like you’re dining in the countryside. A brunch menu is offered at 22€.

Eggs & Co // 11 Rue Bernard Palissy, 75006 // +33 (0)1 45 44 02 52 // Tue-Mon 10-5, Sat-Sun 10-6

Admittedly, I haven’t yet eaten at Les Bonnes Sœurs, as the lines are usually too long, but I know it’s one of the best French brunch spots in town. Le brunch at 24€ or 28€ includes freshly squeezed juice, coffee, tea (or hot chocolate), an egg dish, dessert, and don’t forget that basket of bread and croissants. No need for dinner!

Les Bonnes Sœurs // 8 rue du pas de la Mule, 75003 // +33 (0)1 42 74 55 80 // Mon-Fri 12-3, 7-11, Sat 12-4:30, 7-11, Sun 11-4:30, 7-11

If you want to splurge on Sunday brunch and make a day of it, head to Le Chalet des Iles in Bois de Boulogne. Reachable only by boat in a bucolic setting, they offer an unlimited gourmet buffet brunch at 55€. You can read more about my unforgettable experience here. Reservations are recommended.

Le Chalet des Iles // 14 Chemin de Ceinture du Lac Inférieur, 75016 // +33 (0)1 42 88 04 69 // Daily 12-3, 7:30-10:30

Le Chalet des Îles

May 21, 2017

Little did I know it was possible to go island hopping on the outskirts of Paris. Today my Italian and I discovered two islands in the midst of Bois de Boulogne. It was Sunday brunch at Le Chalet des Îles that brought us there. This chalet dates back to La Belle Époque. What began as a literary café, frequented by the likes of Marcel Proust and Émile Zola, became a reputable restaurant in later years.

Le Chalet des Îles is only reachable by boat, making it even more charming and exclusive of a destination.

Once seated in the outdoor terrace, the ambiance was relaxed yet elegant. Eyeing the copious buffet, I could tell we were in for a treat. The waiter confirmed this as he came over with two glasses of champagne and motioned us towards the selection of seafood, meats, cheeses, vegetables, fruits, sweets… And so began our feast.

We ended with dessert which was a mouth-watering sight for a sweet tooth like myself. It was hard to choose!

After a final coffee and a little exploring of the chalet, we were ready for a walk around the islands.

What we discovered were secluded spots for picnicking; children playing in the grass; couples floating on the lake in rowboats. What a picturesque weekend paradise! Well worth the 30 minute bike ride from the Marais.

We could easily have spend the rest of the afternoon basking in the sun, book in hand. And this is certainly what we plan to do next time, after brunch of course.

Paris Picks: Coffee Shops

March 24, 2017

In the last few years, a new coffee culture has made its way to Paris. Once upon a time you could only order a mediocre café noisette (espresso with hot milk) at a bistro counter, or for a little extra, sit on a terrace nursing a scalding café crème (the French version of a latte). Thankfully for us coffee connoisseurs, things have changed and a good coffee is not so hard to find, due to expat baristas brewing top roasts. But you must know where to look. Here is a list of my favorite coffee shops all over Paris, some of which are conveniently located in my North Marais neighborhood. (Café date, anyone?) In addition to stellar coffee, most offer free WiFi.

Télescope: 5 Rue Villedo, 75001 / Monday-Friday 8:30-5 / Saturday 9:30-6:30 / Sunday Closed

Café Kitsuné: 51 Galerie Montpensier, 75001 / Monday-Friday 10-6 / Saturday-Sunday 10-6:30

Matamata: 58 Rue d’Argout, 75002 / Monday-Friday 8-5 / Saturday-Sunday 9:30-5:30

Café Loustic: 40 Rue Chapon, 75003 / Monday-Friday 8:30-6 / Saturday-Sunday 10-6

Fragments: 76 Rue des Tournelles, 75003 / Monday-Friday 8-6 / Saturday-Sunday 10-6

The Broken Arm: 12 Rue Perrée, 75003 / Tuesday-Saturday 9-6 / Sunday-Monday Closed

Boot Café: 19 Rue du Pont aux Choux, 75003 / Monday-Sunday 10-6

La Caféothèque: 52 Rue de l’Hôtel de ville, 75004 / Monday-Friday 8:30-7:30 / Saturday-Sunday 10-7:30

Le Peloton Café: 17 Rue du Pont Louis-Philippe, 75004 / Monday-Friday 9:30-5:30 / Saturday-Sunday 9:30-6:30 / Closed Wednesday

Coutume Café: 47 Rue de Babylone, 75007 / Monday-Friday 8:30-5:30 / Saturday-Sunday 9-6

Honor Cafe: 54 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 / Monday-Friday 9-6 / Saturday 10-6 / Sunday Closed

KB Café Shop: 53 Avenue Trudaine, 75009 / Monday-Friday 7:45-6:30 / Saturday-Sunday 9-6:30

Republique of Coffee: Boulevard Saint-Martin, 75010 / Monday-Friday 8-7:30 / Saturday 9-7:30 / Sunday 10-7

Blackburn Coffee: 52 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin, 75010 / Monday-Friday 9-6 / Saturday-Sunday 10-7

Peonies Café: 81 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, 75010 / Tuesday-Saturday 9-8 / Sunday 10-4 / Monday Closed

Ten Belles: 10 Rue de la Grange aux Belles, 75010 / Monday-Friday 8-5 / Saturday-Sunday 9-6

Folks and Sparrows: 14 Rue Saint-Sébastien, 75011 / Tuesday-Saturday 10-6 / Sunday-Monday Closed

Café Oberkampf: 3 Rue Neuve Popincourt, 75011 / Monday, Thursday-Friday 8:30-4:30 / Saturday-Sunday 9:30-4:30 / Tuesday-Wednesday Closed

Passager: 107 Avenue Ledru-Rollin, 75011 / Tuesday-Saturday 8:30-6:30 / Sunday-Monday Closed

Hardware Société: 10 Rue Lamarck, 75018 / Monday, Wednesday-Friday 9-4 / Saturday-Sunday 9:30-4:30 / Tuesday Closed

Lomi: 3 ter Rue Marcadet, 75018 / Monday-Sunday 10-7

CREAM: 50 Rue de Belleville, 75020 / Monday-Friday 8:30-5:30 / Saturday-Sunday 9:30-5:30

Courchevel 1850

March 19, 2017

Last week I discovered the most chic winter destination in France. Courchevel is a ski resort in the French Alps. Part of Les Trois Vallées, it’s the largest in the world. Courchevel alone is made of up of three levels, the highest being 1850 meters up in the mountains. This was where we were headed. Having only skied in the U.S. and Italy, I was looking forward to the adventure.

Just over three hours after leaving Paris I arrived to hotel Le Strato, set high up in the mountains. This five-star alpine hideaway revealed stunning views of the Alps, with skiers passing by on the paths just outside my window. I was in snow-capped heaven! I breathed in the fresh mountain air as I settled into my luxurious room.

This family run hotel is one-of-a-kind. Opened in 2009 by “a young lady of over 80,” it was the realization of a dream for Jeannine Boix-Vives. It’s named for the Strato skis that had contributed so much to the Rossignol brand’s fame, a company once owned by Jeannine and her family. As she so wisely states “dreaming alone will not determine your destiny.” Every detail in the 25 suites is taken into consideration, from the elegant modern decor to the unique comforts (catching up on the news from the bathtub, for one). The unrivaled spa uses Sothys products and features two saunas, a steam-room, jacuzzi, gym and indoor pool. (My signature massage was heavenly!) I was thrilled too, to take an invigorating yoga class, adding to the bliss I already felt.

Symbolic of the three generations running Le Strato, family paintings hang in the library, dining room and along the corridors, complimented by wooden sculptures and artwork collected from around the world.

What makes Le Strato even more of a haute destination is its Michelin-starred gastronomy. Restaurant Baumanière 1850 is run by Jean-André Charial (owner of the famous Michelin 2-star restaurant l’Oustau de Baumanière in Baux-de-Provence). With executive chef Lowell Mesnier working closely with chef Glenn Viel and Jean-André Charial, the food alone is worth the trip. Having already tasted Glenn’s cuisine on my visit to Baumanière, I knew I would dine like a queen. Every evening I looked forward to the gourmet feast following a cocktail at the cozy bar, live music filling the space. Breakfast in the same regal setting was an introduction into local tastes.

Ready to discover the mountains, I headed to the ski room for my gear, booked a teacher to guide me through the slopes and headed down the hill directly from the hotel. With many blue pistes to choose from, as well as a handful of red for those more advanced, I felt completely at ease. This was paradise!

Guided by the sun, we skied the smooth snow all the way down to the village and took the chair lift back up, with views of Mont Blanc in the distance. It took a few years, but finally I was feeling that ski high unique to those dedicated to the sport. I was elated and couldn’t wait to return with my expert Italian skier!

I even encountered art in the mountains during my first ever racket walk, a healthy alternative to skiing. “Doggy John” by painter and sculptor Julien Marinetti stands 175 cm at 2238 meters high.

Before the return to Paris I took a petit pause on the terrace, filled with gratitude at having experienced this tasteful family chalet that honored one woman’s life, while providing happiness to so many others.

Cook’n With Class

January 29, 2017

Often when I go out to eat and love a particular dish I wonder, “Could I make this at home?” I usually never end up trying, not knowing the chef’s tricks in the kitchen, afraid my attempts will fall short. I could certainly read my friends’ cookbooks and learn their unique recipes, but what about being taught by the chefs themselves? And what about wine pairings? I know which wines I like, but when to drink them, and with what dish? That’s when I discovered Montmartre based cooking school Cook’n With Class Paris. As well as many classes in cooking and baking, they offer a French Food and Wine Pairing, perfect! Let the food and wine education begin.

I sat at the table overlooking the kitchen with six dinner companions from around the world, many of whom were regulars. I quickly learned that the chef owned and ran a successful French restaurant for many years in the US, evident in his skillful movements. As he cooked the meal, he described the dishes and how to prepare them, answering any questions we had. And all we had to do was watch. Following an appetizer and champagne, the first course was split pea velouté and buttered croutons. While he served the dish, our expert sommelier came over to explain his choice of wine and the region from where it came.

While I savored every bite and learned about wines I knew little about, and how best to pair them, I was intrigued with the preparation. This master chef explained why plates are kept hot in the best restaurants, and took every care in the presentation of each dish.

The next dish of seared scallops with crunchy celery, rocquefort dressing and candied orange peels was my favorite, and I made sure to take notes on the preparation, asking the chef questions during the plating. How lucky I felt to have a seasoned French chef cooking right before my eyes!

The main dish of black legs chicken fricassée with creamy leek risotto was delicious, as was the wine it was paired with. In the French dining tradition, a cheese plate followed, along with a lesson on cheese. The meal ended with a heavenly tarte tatin paired with just the right sweet wine. Not only did I dine like a queen, I learned quite a bit about food and wine that would serve me in my own kitchen.

I’m already planning on heading south to visit their second school Cook’n With Class Uzes, and learn the tricks of the trade by chef Eric Fraudeau. Stay tuned!

Le Negresco

October 28, 2016

My last trip to the Côte d’Azur was in March. I spent a little time in Nice but was eager to become better acquainted with this, the region’s capital. Aside from its Mediterranean climate, it’s a city of art and culture, another reason to fall in love with it. To properly immerse myself in the world of French art, where better to stay than at the historic hotel Le Negresco. Centrally located between Cannes and Monaco, it sits on the famous Promenade de Anglais. It is here in this National Historic Monument, that the French works of art from Louis XIII to modern art, have a home. I knew I would be in good company.

Upon entering, the grandeur of this hotel is hard to describe. I’ve stayed in many beautiful hotels around the world, but Le Negresco is in a class of its own. The Versailles Lounge alone takes your breath away, with Louis XIV’s portrait, marble floors, hand-painted ceiling, and elegant furnishings. The fireplace too, is original. I could imagine the decadent events having taken place in this salon since Henri Negresco opened the hotel in 1913, now over 100 years old.

Next I entered the Royal Lounge, centrally situated beneath a large glass dome. This is Negresco’s soul, and you can certainly feel it. Once an elegant ballroom, it’s now an elaborate event space, displaying portraits of French royalty, including Napoleon III. A stunning Baccarat chandelier provides the centerpiece. Fittingly, the hotel’s 93 year old owner Jeanne Augier’s portrait also has a place on the wall. After all, it is she who welcomes each guest to her home, which she has taken great pride in decorating. She lives on the top floor with her cat, and ensures that this private, family run hotel remains at the highest 5-star level in comfort and cuisine.

A good friend from Nice had often spoken about the restaurants at Le Negresco, particularly the vibrant and colorful La Rotonde. It’s in fact an 18th century carousel with wooden horses circling the restaurant. My eyes opened wide in amazement as I entered this space and understood immediately why it’s such a warm and welcoming place dedicated to families. The terrace opens up to the sea and this is where I chose to have lunch, accompanied by the sun. Breakfast would be enjoyed in the carousel.

Le Negresco is also known for its haute cuisine. Le Chantecler is Nice’s finest restaurant, with two stars in the Michelin Guide under the culinary expertise of chef Jean-Denis Rieubland. He defines his cuisine and style as “inspired by Provence, with the respect of its products and traditions”. This is THE place for French gastronomy, boasting a wine cellar of over 15,000 bottles, with woodwork dating back to 1751. After dinner you can unwind at the neighboring bar with live music and a good digestif.

With each of the 96 rooms and 21 suites uniquely decorated with period furniture, I was eager to take a closer look. Mrs Augier being an art connoisseur and collector, walking through the hotel and up the four floors feels much like being in a museum, with artwork from Salvador Dali and Sonia Delaunay, tapestries from Raymond Moratti and sculptures from Niki de Saint Phalle, to name a few. And the rooms? Timeless perfection.

I felt very much at home in my room overlooking the Bay of Angels and knew I would return to this Art Hotel called Le Negresco.

Paris by Thierry Marx

August 26, 2016

A morning discovering favorite local haunts of one of Paris’ star chefs and bakers? Mais oui! Several weeks ago, I had the privilege of doing exactly that, with two star Michelin chef Thierry Marx. Our day began at his new bakery and cafe in the 8th arrondissement, La Boulangerie. After tasting a few of Marx’ many sweet specialties, I had a tour of the kitchen where I met the crew and watched them at work, learning a few tricks along the way.

I then hopped into my vintage Citroën 2CV and my beret clad driver navigated his way to our next stop Cafés Verlet, where Marx often drinks (and buys) his coffee. It was there where I tasted various intoxicating brews, both hot and cold, and learned exactly how specialized this family business, originating in the 20th century, really is. It was in 1965 that grandson Pierre Verlet began roasting coffees from all over the world. I even caught a glimpse of his son’s roasting method in their nearby coffee mill.

The next stop was a hidden gallery in Saint-Germain, another of Marx’ favorite haunts. Pause for a little visual stimulation. The last discovery before lunch was gastronomic bouquiniste Alain Suchet, his bookstand on display along the banks of the Seine. It is here where Thierry Marx acquires vintage cookbooks to add to his collection. With so many to choose from, I could have spent all afternoon browsing!

For lunch I dined haute couture style at the Mandarin Oriental’s Sur Measure. It is here at Thierry Marx’ two Michelin star restaurant, where he “blends the technical and emotional aspects of cooking with sight, sound and taste.” What an experience, from the amuse bouche to the dessert. Emotional to say the least!

To find out more about Thierry Marx’ favorite spots to shop, dine and explore in the French capital, pick up a copy of Paris Marx Saveurs Capitale (in French). If you’re planning a trip to Paris, you can experience ‘Paris by Marx’ with a stay at the Mandarin Oriental. Find out more in my feature in France Today.

PARIS PICKS : Italian eats part I

August 10, 2016

The French love pizza. All Italian food in fact. And you’ll easily find Italian restaurants and pizzerias all over the city. But how good is la pizza in Paris? Depends on if you’ve been to the BEST pizzeria in the city where pizza originated, Naples, Italy. (Luckily I have, twice even. Here’s my guide for those planning a trip.) L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele certainly takes the cake, or should I say pie, when it comes to simple and absolutely delicious pizza. Started in 1870 and passed on through five generations, their secret is “using natural ingredients and an old, traditional, time-tested method of leavening the pizza dough.” In case you can’t make it to Naples, there are a few places I’d recommend that almost make you feel like you’re in Italy. Keep in mind that I’m a tough critic, married to an Italian after all. And since I’m currently in Italy indulging in my share of pizza, where you can follow me on instagram, twitter and snapchat, I thought the timing was fitting. Here they are in no particular order, all scattered around the right bank. Reason enough to venture to my side of Paris.

Recommended by trusted Italians, we quickly grew to love Ciacco, located on a quiet street in the evolving 10th. With simple decor and staff who remember us upon entering, it almost feels like dining with family. Many great traditional pizza options and they also do take away.

Ciacco // 9 rue Rene Boulanger 75010 // Tues-Sat 12-2:30, 7:30-11 // 01 42 06 38 07

With a spacious outdoor terrace and two floors of seating, la Massara is at once inviting and intimate. Run by a friendly Italian staff, you have plenty of pizza options to choose from, some with buffalo mozzarella and an assortment of white pizzas. They also have another location in Nice.

la Massara // 70 rue de Turbigo 75003 // Daily 12-2:30, 7:15-11 // 01 42 74 13 94

For expertly mixed cocktails and hearty pizza in a variety of tastes (including one with lardo, read all about my discovery of this delicacy here) head to Grazie where you’ll be welcomed with a “buona serra.” This trendy spot near the Marais is perfect for a girls (or boys) night, just be sure to reserve and arrive early to claim the coveted window seats.

Grazie // 91 Boulevard Beaumarchais 75003 // Mon-Fri 12:30–2:30, 7:30–11, Sat/Sun 12:30-11:30 // 01 42 78 11 96

One of the latest Italian restaurants to open it’s doors is Ober Mamma. This trendy hotspot serves a traditional Milanese aperitivo with every cocktail order, perfect for the often lengthy wait. They don’t take reservations so be sure to arrive early and enjoy the convivial atmosphere. Rumor has it that one of the pizza makers comes from da Michele.

Ober Mamma // 107 boulevard Richard Lenoir 75011 // Daily 12:15-2:15/3:30, 6/7-1AM // 01 43 41 32 15

For pizza that doesn’t try to be Italian but is worthy in its own right, head to Pink Flamingo, now with four locations in Paris, in the 3rd, 10th, 12th and 18th. (Also with outposts in Valencia, Spain and Amsterdam.) You’ll find flavors including fig and chevre and a daily pizza du jour. They also do take away and delivery.

I’ll be sure to include any other worthy pizza that I discover during my eating adventures in Paris. And if you have any favorites, please let me know! Coming soon will be favorite Italian restaurants, we still have a few to try… until then buon appetito!

Baumanière

May 5, 2016

Several weeks ago I had the pleasure of discovering Provence, Les Baux-de-Provence to be exact. A quaint little commune in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region of southern France, considered one of the most beautiful of French villages. But it was Baumanière, set at the foot of the Alpilles mountains that won my heart.

Home became one of the 5 buildings creating the luxury Relais & Chateaux property Baumanière Les Baux de Provence. Once upon a time in 1945, visionary Raymond Thuillier fell in love with this forgotten land nicknamed “Le Val d’Enfer (Hell’s Valley) and out of one small farmhouse he created an entire Provençal universe, where movie stars, writers and politicians became guests at his highly regarded gastronomic table. Among them Pablo Picasso, Jean Cocteau, Queen Elizabeth II and Elizabeth Taylor, to name a few.

In 2015, at the helm of Jean-André Charial and his wife Genevieve, Baumanière Les Baux de Provence celebrated its seventieth anniversary. And they have much to celebrate as their remote property continues to attract guests and acclaim from around the world. Each building reveals a unique ambiance, with each of its 55 spacious rooms and suites decorated in old charm and modern amenities. I could have easily stayed for a week. Did I mention they recently opened a spa with an array of beauty products made with local olive oil?

For both lunch and dinner I eagerly dined at the 2-Michelin star restaurant L’Oustau de Baumanière, with young, dynamic and innovative chef Glenn Viel taking charge in the kitchen. Cooking classes are offered!

I spoke in length with the charming Jean-André, topics ranging from the love of his inherited land, his passion for cooking with simple and fresh ingredients (he even gave me a tour of the greenhouses where he grows many of his herbs and vegetables), and his deep adoration for Italy. Genevieve had a unique elegance and warmth and I felt very welcomed in their home. She even took a liking to my bags (and my accent) and is now selling Kasia Dietz handbags in their exclusive Baumanière Boutique!

I fondly recall my morning reflections, sitting on my private terrace, listening to the calm of nature and thinking, if ever we decide to leave Paris, Provence would certainly be a nice place to call home.

PARIS PICKS : North Marais Restos Part I

February 12, 2016

I’m often asked by friends, fans and clients what my favorite restaurants, cafes, bars, hotels, etc are in the City of Lights. Thus I decided to begin a new series, Paris Picks, where I’ll be highlighting my top five in food, fashion and beyond, beginning with restaurants in and around my North Marais neighborhood. Bon appétit!

Season, one of my favorite new addresses in Paris comes from the team behind Cafe Crème and is located just across the street from this local haunt. With a daily 12€ lunch special and an array of salads (including spinach & kale Ceasar), it’s the perfect place to stop for breakfast, lunch or dinner. They also serve fresh juices.

Season // 1 Rue Charles-François Dupuis 75003 // 01 42 71 52 97

For a night out at a beautiful venue featuring a small seasonal menu, there’s no place quite like Les Chouettes. Be sure to try one of their creative cocktails at their second floor bar. You can read more about it here.

Les Chouettes // 32 rue de Picardie 75003 // 01 44 61 73 21

Located directly across the street from the Picasso Museum, and with the loveliest dining view (ask for a second floor window seat), Glou is the perfect gourmet lunch or dinner stop while shopping in the neighborhood. I’m particularly a fan of their ever changing prix-fixe lunch menu at 17€ or 21€.

Glou // 101 Rue Vieille du Temple 75003 // 01 42 74 44 32

Modern French gastronomy can be savoured at Pramil, an intimate restaurant located in the ever expanding North Marais. Opened opened nine years ago by chef Alain Pramil (a charming man who makes sure your experience is a good one), he offers a prix-fixe dinner menu for 33€ and an extensive wine list.

Pramil // 9 rue Vertbois 75003 // 01 42 72 03 60

Just north of the Haut Marais sits Chameleon, a restaurant that my Italian and I discovered in its earliest days, which has quickly become a go-to spot. Its minimal decor a direct contrast to its complex taste combinations. I recommend the seasonal 35€ menu including entrée, plat & dessert.

Chameleon // 70 Rue René Boulanger 75010 // 01 42 08 99 41

high tea time

November 13, 2015

As the days turn shorter and winter begins to make its presence known, I turn towards the sweet side of life in Paris. Having sipped chai in nearly all of the five star tea salons, each one is an experience in itself. France does excel in its pastries after all, and having a sweet tooth, I’ll try any sugary concoction whipped up by a respected pâtissier. My most recent experience in l’heure du goûter, as the French call snack time, was by the skillful hand of Pastry Chef Cédric Grolet at Le Meurice, with world renowned Alain Ducasse at the helm.

Joined by two gourmand friends, we sat in the elegant restaurant Le Dalí, and started our high tea with a glass of bubbly, French style. What I immediately noticed were Christophe Robin’s Little Indulgences, warm finger sandwiches prepared to order. How divine! And I hadn’t even brought my attention to the sweet portion yet.

The trays were stacked high with homemade sweets and scones with cream, each more delicious than the next.

As an unexpected bonus, the most delicious madeleines were served to us, fresh out of the oven. But what took the cake was the Hazelnut, a rich and chocolaty dessert that must be tasted to be truly understood.

The afternoon was long and luxurious! Leah Walker, fellow traveler, donned her new rive droite tote in high style. Along with writer Mary Winston Nicklin, we indulged in a tea time to remember. Until next time, ladies!

discovering Dijon

June 30, 2015

Not long ago I was invited to join Rendez-vous en France, the official site for France Tourism, as a select few traveled the country to create their new campaign Fall For France. Considering there were several regions of France I hadn’t yet explored, I eagerly accepted the adventure and boarded the train with Rail Europe. In under two hours I arrived to Dijon.

Dijon being the capital of the Burgundy region, naturally day one was spent wine tasting.

Bourgogne being my top choice in wine, I discovered new reds and even a few whites.

Being in the expert hands of the Dijon Tourism Office, our next stop was a special one.

The Clos de Vougeot vineyard was created by Cistercian monks of Cîteaux Abbey in 1336. This medieval wine farm was highly recognized for centuries. The Château de Clos de Vougeot, sitting regally within the stone wall, was added in 1551.

Since 1945, it is the seat of the Order for the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin.

Wine is no longer produced, but this historic Château holds many stories within it’s walls.

It was now time to enjoy the city, and why not from the 46m high La Tour Philippe de Bon?

The sunlit views were stunning, and I was eager to explore by foot down below.

I spent countless hours walking, looking up, admiring the architecture, the historic details.

I discovered a new love for a city and it’s neighboring landscapes. With local products in hand, including a few bottles of Bourgogne, Dijon mustard (I couldn’t leave without a tasting), and gingerbread (another specialty), I vowed to return when the vines are filled with leaves. Maybe even with a certain someone. There is much more to see… and taste.

My next adventure is taking me to Italy…feel free to follow along on Instagram + Facebook!

around the world in a day

May 13, 2015

One week after the opening of the World Expo 2015, Feeding the Planet, we traveled to Milan to see what all the talk was about, the expo being a topic of much controversy.

In brief, Expo Milano 2015 is the Universal Exhibition that Milan, Italy, hosts from May 1 to October 31, 2015. Over this six-month period, Milan becomes a global showcase where more than 140 participating countries show the best of their technology that offers a concrete answer to a vital need: being able to guarantee healthy, safe and sufficient food for everyone, while respecting the Planet and its equilibrium. In addition to the exhibitor nations, the Expo also involves international organizations, and expects to welcome over 20 million visitors to its 1.1 million square meters of exhibition area.

Both my Italian and I were curious to see, learn, and taste, starting with the Sudan pavilion.

I felt at home in Poland, watching a film about my country’s history, and meeting a local.

One of the most impressive pavilions was Oman, a place I hadn’t experienced, until now.

Turkmenistan was elaborately designed, as was Turkey, unfortunately we didn’t have enough time to visit either pavilion. One day was simply not enough to take it all in.

Loyal to the US & France, we visited both pavilions, the latter filled with wine and cheese.

We were most impressed with China, where we feasted on peking duck and dumplings.

In Italy we tasted fine wines and caroused Eataly, exhibiting foods from all twenty regions.

Our day ended with the Tree of Life, agreeing that the experience was one to remember.

first class dining

February 12, 2015

I don’t often write about dining, but this meal was one to remember! Last week I had the pleasure of joining France Today website editor, a site and magazine for which I write, for a decadent lunch at Le Cinq. Five-courses. Two Michelin stars. New chef Christian Le Squer, (who himself holds three stars). Does it get much better than this? Actually, it does. We had the privilege of touring the famed wine cellar. Now, that is a something to write about.

I couldn’t wait to try Le Squer’s menu, this “creator of savors and composer of tastes.“

The amuse–bouches were incredible! Each a unique melange of flavors to fill the palate.

The meal started with a sweet onion filled with oysters and carmelized onions.

Next, Mont Blanc as Egg Soufflé with black truffle. Heavenly!

My main dish was wild sea bass with caviar in ‘fermented milk from my childhood’.

A little cheese before dessert? My choices included soft truffled brie and Mont d’Or.

This sweet caramel concoction was simply divine!

My dessert was an original work of art, and truly had to be tasted to be understood.

Breton specialty Kouing-Amann to end the meal on a sweet note.

Having tasted a variety of wines with our meal, each carefully selected to complement the dishes, it was a privilege to tour the cave. Built during WWII, Four Seasons George V‘s wine cellar is hidden 14 metres (45 feet) below the ground. With nearly 50,000 bottles, it’s filled with vintage treasures, including over 2,800 French and international wines.

Here’s one I wouldn’t mind tasting! (The magnum Petrus 1964 is valued at 40,000 euros.)

The oldest bottle in the collection is a 1792 Madeira. Impressive!

Every time I pass by hotel George V, I will fondly recall this first class culinary experience.

Adventures in Andalucia : Seville

January 6, 2015

This year we decided to embark on an adventure in celebration of one year ending and another beginning. Where better than beneath the Spanish sun? Our journey began in Seville. Home became Hotel Casa 1800, a historic palace-house turned boutique hotel, located in the heart of the Santa Cruz barrio. The views of our new city were breathtaking!
Neighboring our hotel sat the Cathedral de Seville, the largest Gothic cathedral and third largest church in the world. Within this noble space Christopher Columbus was laid to rest.The views from the Giralda, the bell tower originally built as a minaret, were incredible!

Our most memorable day was spent at the Alcázar of Seville. Once a Moorish fort, this palace, known to be the most beautiful in Spain, is the oldest still in use in Europe.

Walking through it’s many chambers and courtyards, we were well impressed. I became enamored with the Muslim architecture and colorful tile mosaics. (New bag collection?) The Alcazar’s gardens were uniquely magical. We spent hours walking their paths beneath the Spanish sun, hidden within a palatial world, walled in the center of a charming city. Our wanderings took us to the Plaza de España, located in the Parque de María Luisa and built in 1928 for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929, now mainly government buildings.

Much of the reason I love to travel, is to try the regional specialities. For dinner and lunch, we opted for tapas, and many conversations centered around food. Where were our favorite spots? Here is a list of our top three tapas restaurants in Seville. And we tried many! In no particular order, La Brunilda, El Pasaje & Vineria San Telmo. Buen provecho!Soon it was time to leave Seville for Córdoba. Adventures in Andalucia continue…

c’est chouette

November 18, 2014

One of my favorite French words is chouette which literally means owl, or when used to describe someone or something, means it’s great or cool, as in c’est chouette. A few weeks ago while walking around my neighborhood, I noticed Les Chouettes, what appeared to be a new eatery. Upon entering I was completely taken with the decor and design of this new restaurant which opened on October 4th. Love at first sight!

The restaurant was in fact named for an antique owl that the French owner found at a flea market. Inspired by art and a New York vision, the owner hired Spanish architect Lázaro Rosa-Violán to design the three level interior, what used to house a jewelry factory.

As I climbed the spiral staircase to the second floor I discovered a bar serving artisanal beer and ale, as well as a vast selection of liquor. They even make their own juices.

The third floor revealed a cozy library in which to sip your wine while reading Rimbaud.

This is the perfect place to escape to for breakfast, lunch, dinner, or a evening apéro.

And how is the food? I have yet to try it, but with an inventive French chef and seasonal ingredients, and a menu that changes every two weeks, how can you go wrong?

This is certain to become a favorite haunt in Paris. Welcome to the neighborhood!

Les Chouettes : 32 Rue de Picardie, 75003 (01 44 61 73 21)