Today marks the last day of Christo and Jeanne-Claude‘s latest installation in Paris: L’Arc de Triomphe, Wrapped. For those who didn’t have a chance to see this work in person, I’m sharing images to bring it more to life.
Personally, I found this work both poetic and symbolic. Walking around and through this wrapped Arc, the fabric billows in the wind, creating soft undulating waves. This silver fabric changed color throughout the day.
In an interview with Christo in 2018, he spoke about how as a young artist he lived in a small studio off of the Champs-Élysées, with the Arc as his view. How fitting to end his journey with this installation.
Read more about what Christo shared with me in this article I wrote for Hemispheres Magazine. At the time, I looked forward to our meeting in person. Unfortunately, that never happened due to his passing in 2020.
Walking beneath the Arc de Triomphe allows you to feel its immensity and the challenge of wrapping such a monumental building. A skilled team of mountain climbers worked non-stop over almost 12 weeks.
While this installation certainly proved controversial on the question of What is art? keep in mind that it was completely funded by Christo and Jeanne-Claude through the selling of their artwork. This was their way.
I will miss the presence of Christo and Jeanne-Claude in Paris, but I know their souls will remain in the city, the only place where they chose to present two works. From The Pont Neuf Wrapped to L’Arc de Triomphe, Wrapped.
I’ve never felt more grateful to arrive in Athens where we recently began our Greek island-hopping adventures. We chose late August knowing there would be fewer people around, both in Athens and in the islands. Plus, the meltemi (very strong winds) usually calm down by then. Taking care to follow all safety precautions, including wearing masks during the flight and in all public places, we settled into the NEW Hotel in the heart of Plaka.
Owned by world-renowned art collector Dakis Joannou and designed by the award-winning Campana brothers, NEW Hotel boasts not only 360-degree views of Athens (including the Acropolis, Lycabettus Hill, Syntagma Square, and the Parliament) but it houses an impressive art collection, including works by Jeff Koons, a personal friend of Joannou’s. (Koons also designed his yacht!) Surrounded by an impressive collection of over 2,000 art books on loan at the 7th floor Art Lounge, we feasted on an exceptional meal fusing Greek and international cuisine.
What most appealed to me at this design-savvy 5-star address was that nearly all of the furniture and interior elements were repurposed from the hotel which previously stood in its place. Brilliant concept! Each of the 79 well-outfitted rooms is designed in one of three themes, vintage postcards and “evil eyes” among them.
The dining room where breakfast is served is cleverly composed of recycled furniture and wooden elements.
The evening found us on a walk around the neighborhood of the NEW Hotel where we discovered many charming cafes and a good dose of history. The Roman Agora and the Tower of the Winds were both visions to behold as the sun began to set.
Having already visited many of Athen’s sights on a previous Greek island-hopping adventure, including the majestic Acropolis, we favored the culinary side of the city and headed for dinner with friends.
The following afternoon we hopped aboard a ferry for an 8-hour journey to the remote island of Astypalea.
With Paris safely back to life following the summer holidays, the city’s art scene is buzzing, from large museums to intimate galleries. One show not to miss that unfortunately many will miss due to travel restrictions is Christo and Jean-Claude Paris! going on at Centre Pompidou until October 19th. A great fan of Christo’s work ever since I walked through his exhibition The Gates in New York’s Central Park in 2005, I had the good fortune to speak with him in an interview last November for this article in Hemispheres. Our meeting in Paris never materialized, unfortunately, as the 85-year-old artist sadly passed away in late May. His and Jean-Claude’s legacy lives on, as you’ll see in these select works from the Pompidou exhibition. To learn more about the life of Christo and Jean-Claude in Paris, here’s an insightful and touching film by the Maysles brothers.
Packing Surface, 1958
Wrapped Oil Barrels, 1959
As you can tell from these works, Christo wrapped various objects with fabric stiffened with lacquer and tied with string, including the Wrapped Toy Horse, 1963.
Package, 1960
Wrapped Portrait of Jean-Claude 1963
Earning a living as a portrait painter for high society, Christo first met Jean-Claude while painting her mother.
Christo’s best-known work during his Parisian years was his Packages, created between 1958 and 1964. He played with material and color and never disclosed what was inside the packages.
Christo’s “Store Fronts” series in which he covered the inside of recycled display cases and rebuilt storefronts with paper, confirmed his interest in exploring an architectural dimension in his work. This is what led to his urban projects to follow.
In 1975, Christo and Jean-Claude came up with the idea of wrapping the Pont-Neuf bridge with golden sandstone polyamide fabric. Their goal was to create a temporary work in direct contact with reality. They wanted to create interaction among those who walked along the bridge. It wasn’t until 1985 that their dream was realized.
As Christo shared with me during our conversation, Paris was the only city in which he had planned on creating two major installations. His second being the wrapping of the Arc de Triomphe in a silver-blue fabric, which will now take place in Fall 2021. I have no doubt that Christo and Jean-Claude will be there in spirit.
Anyone else missing going to museums and learning about art while getting a lesson in history? Well, now you can, and from the comfort of your own home. Join these leading tour companies as they adapt to this unprecedented time during which travel is restricted, and will be for a time to come. Companies including Context Travel, Take Walks, and THATMuse are offering alternative methods of learning, from home! Ready to stimulate your mind by joining classes in history and art led by leading experts in their fields?
Join a historian at Context Travel for Context Conversations, inviting guests into the real life of the people, history, and culture of the world’s greatest cities. Online live learning seminars include ‘The Colosseum and Roman Forum in the Time of the Emperors’ and ‘Tate Modern: What is Art?’ Each live lecture via zoom is 40€.
In Take Walks Tours from Home, join Archaeologist & TV Host Darius Arya as he presents ‘Ancient Rome for All Ages’. This three-part series highlights the foundational myths to the rise of the emperors to Rome’s decline. Other Tours from Home include ‘NYC Met Museum Tour With a Twist’, ‘Journey into St. Mark’s Basilica, the Venetian Gem’ and ‘Descend into the Darkness of Paris’ Catacombs’. Each hour-long tour costs 9€-10€.
Meanwhile, a leader in museum treasure hunts in Paris and London, THATMuse is helping families Play With Art at Home by offering free portrait party kits to help kids learn about art. This skillfully crafted educational kit includes Michelangelo connect-the-dots, French Neo-Classical perspective exercises from David’s Oath of Horatii, and a deciphering a da Vinci exercise. Join the THATMuse blog to keep up to date with all the artful fun!
One of my most beloved parts of France is the Côte d’Azur. This region in the southeast along the Mediterranean coast boasts some of the most charming villages, neighboring the vibrant city of Nice. I recently discovered a few of these hilltop gems in a French Riviera hopping adventure, beginning in Mouans-Sartoux.
I hadn’t previously heard of this old-fashioned village, tucked between Cannes and Grasse and was pleasantly surprised to discover a 16th-century chateau and it’s neighboring modern art museum Espace de l’Art Concret in the former stables. All along the grounds of this castle, unique contemporary art sculptures caught my eye.
The streets of Mouans-Sartoux felt like walking through a living greenhouse, where plants lined the doorways and window sills. Along this walk I discovered gastronomic gem Mon Petit Resto, helmed by stellar chef Franck Cicognola. Next, it was time to head to Grasse.
Fascinated by French fragrances, many of which originate in the town of Grasse, I was eager to discover exactly how these perfumes are created, beginning with their floral compositions. This curiosity led me to the International Perfume Museum Gardens. Inaugurated in 2010, these three hectares of sprawling gardens act as an open-air botanical conservatory. Here I went on a sensory tour of the first plants used to make perfume in Grasse in the sixteenth century, including wild orange, lavender cassia from the mimosa family, myrtle and pistachio mastic. I also discovered that from the seventeenth century, the three major plants used were jasmine, rose and tuberose.
My fragrant journey continued to the heart of Grasse where I met with artisanal perfumer Jessica Buchanan, the creator of 1000 Flowers. Instantly, I fell in love with several of her bespoke fragrances.
The next stop before creating my own custom fragrance at Galimard, one of France’s first perfume houses dating back to 1747, was to the International Perfume Museum.
Founded in 1989, this museum, the only one of its kind in the world, is well situated in Grasse, the birthplace of luxury perfumes. Organized into sections from antiquity to contemporary periods, I discovered the origins of fragrance and how they evolved throughout the years. I even took a fragrant tour of iconic scents.
The next stop in the French Riviera was to hilltop village Mougins, known for its gastronomy and art de vivre.
Mougins is where Pablo Picasso chose to spend the last twelve years of his life and where he died in 1973.
I encountered Picasso’s works, as well as those of Matisse, Chagall, Cézanne, Dalí, and Warhol to name a few, at the Mougins Museum of Classical Art, an awe-inspiring private collection of ancient art from Greece, Egypt and Rome juxtaposed with modern works, numbering over 1,000 pieces in total.
Both from above where I admired tiled rooftops overlooking lush landscapes, to the gallery-filled streets below, Mougins won my heart. I hope to return in June for Les Etoiles de Mougins, an international festival of gastronomy and lifestyle, in tribute to France’s culinary figure Roger Vergé. Until then I’ll happily dine at Le Clos Saint Basile where chef Matthieu concocts seasonal dishes while his sommelier wife Elien selects the wines.
My next stop was to the home of another great artist, this time a writer. Belles Rives hotel opened in 1929, set in the French Riviera town of Juan-les-Pins, once the private villa of F. Scott Fitzgerald and his wife Zelda.
I even had the good fortune of staying in the room just above where F. Scott and Zelda slept. The views were breathtaking! My custom fragrance which I aptly named Eau d’Azur was ready to be worn as I dressed for dinner at elegant Michelin starred restaurant La Passagère, helmed by Chef Aurélien Véquaud. What a decadent feast, ending with lemon soufflé.
As I sat on the vast terrace overlooking the sea, I thought about the lives of the Fitzgeralds and the wild parties they threw in this exact spot, guests including Rudolph Valentino, Hemingway, Franck Jay Gould, Maurice Chevalier, and Pablo Picasso, and where a green light always shines on the horizon… It was here that F. Scott wrote ‘Tender is the Night’ and gathered inspiration for ‘The Great Gatsby’.
While staying at Belles Rives, I took a walk to the neighboring village of Antibes, famous for its rampart walls. Here Picasso once again took the spotlight at the Picasso Museum, originally the Grimaldi Castle.
Wandering through the colorful alleys of the old town of Antibes, full of cafes and local artisans around every pastel corner, I became even more deeply enamored with this region of France.
Sometimes life in Paris feels like living a dream. This was the case when I was invited on a private art tour of a closed Louvre Museum. The occasion was to discover the artful inspiration behind eight new limited editionBuly 1803 fragrances, each one created by a leading French perfumer. Ready for this exceptional tour?
Two weeks earlier I met with Victoire de Taillac who in 2014 along with her husband Ramdane Touhami, opened their all-natural fragrance emporium Buly 1803 first in Saint Germain and soon after in the Haut Marais. Read more about the brand in my Luxos feature. Now back to the Louvre tour, starting with “the most feminine woman on earth” Venus de Milo. What does she smell like, you wonder? According to the perfumer inspired by this femme fatale, an exhilarating blend of mandarine, jasmine and amber.
Walking around an empty Louvre was surreal! Joined only by a handful of fellow journalists from around the world, we were led through the stillness of centuries-old chambers by Victoire and our expert guide.
The next stop was to a personal favorite, La Victoire de Samothrace, the Greek goddess symbolizing victory.
The Winged Victory of Samothrace, a Hellenistic marble sculpture of Nike, dates back to the 2nd century BC. I was completely taken by the majesty of this Greek goddess as we shared a moment in quietude. And her scent? A mix of tuberose, magnolia and jasmine with a hint of myrrh.
Our sensory tour continued to La Grande Odalisque, an oil painting by Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres from 1814. As interpreted by the perfumer, her fragrance exudes incense and pink pepper along with musky notes.
Discretely hidden in the corner of the Louvre was painting Conversation in a Park by Thomas Gainsborough. As Victoire explained, this scent exudes notes of peppermint and bergamot along with Ottoman roses.
All of my senses were engaged as the tour continued from one empty room to another, the only other personalities present being those captured in frames upon the walls.
Our last stop was to Nymph with the Scorpion by Lorenzo Bartolini. This sculpture inspired a scent composed of heliotrope and jasmine with a touch of amber and musk.
While a tour of the closed Louvre isn’t available to the public, you can take a treasure hunt with THATMuse to discover many remarkable artworks, and have great fun while you’re at it. Trust me, I’ve been on a few!
Before leaving the Louvre we stopped at the Buly 1803 pop-up shop. Here I was able to sample all eight art inspired scents, along with their first collection of alcohol-free fragrances.
Obsessed with fragrances, my chosen scent was La Victoire de Samothrace. It brought me right back to Greece!
These Louvre inspired perfumes are available now until January 6th. In case you can’t make it to the Louvre Museum for your own sensory tour, these eight perfumes are also on sale at Buly 1803 and online.
Next time you encounter an artwork wherever you are in the world, imagine what it would smell like.
Ready to discover the secrets of the Marais? Treasure hunt master Daisy de Plume is at it again! Running until April 17th, stop by Galerie S at 96b rue Beaubourg to pick up a hunt pack and take to the streets of Paris to discover hidden secrets of this historic neighborhood. If you don’t make it to THATMuse Marais, there are plenty of museums in both Paris and London in which you can hunt to your heart’s content! Head over to THATMuse and take your pick. Meanwhile, here are a few scenes (and tips) from the Marais hunt.
First you’ll encounter the French Alice in Wonderland, who’s also a space invader, for those keeping track.
Discover a hidden ivy-clad alleyway that boasts an old umbrella shop. Take note of that yellow umbrella…
Ready to encounter Paris’s oldest stone house? Who lived here other than famous alchemist Nicolas Flamel.
After many a photo-op (which of course earns you extra points) stop by the Stravinsky Fountain for a little graffiti challenge and a look at Dali. Can you spot him?
The THATMuse Marais hunt ends in a magical garden, one that I didn’t even know existed until I went on this Marais adventure. Thank you again for your treasure hunt magic, Daisy de Plume! Now, it’s your turn…
On the occasion of International Women’s Day, who better to feature than my own mother, one of the strongest and most positive forces in my life. Not only does this woman possess the kindest of hearts, she’s also uniquely talented. From her days of running a Polish Folk art gallery in the Hamptons to creating her own line of t-shirts (whose prints inspired my first hand-painted bags) to becoming an interior decorator, this woman is an inspiration! These days, since spending winters in Florida she has discovered a new passion, ceramic art.
After being invited to join a ceramics class in her South Florida community center in 2006, her ceramic garden quickly blossomed. I’m immensely proud of her innate talent as a ceramic artist, can you tell? She even created 35 ceramic roses for my wedding in the Italian Riviera. What’s better than flowers that never lose their bloom!
Themes aren’t limited to flowers. Basia presented her ‘Best in Show’ dog series at several exhibitions in Westhampton Beach. Aren’t they cute? She also had a solo exhibition of her work in Sanok, her hometown in Poland. I’ll soon be writing about her for a ceramics magazine in Australia, stay tuned!
My mom is endlessly inspired by her trips to Paris, where she spends hours with the Impressionists at the Louvre and the Musée d’Orsay. Last year’s trip to the gardens of Giverny was a dream! This spring I’m taking her to the South of France where she’ll undoubtedly fall in love with the Provençal landscapes.
View more of Basia Dietz-Zieba’s ceramic art on her website and follow her on Facebook and Instagram.
Ready to go treasure hunting in Paris? I spend many of my weekends at the Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen, just outside of the city. Only open Saturday, Sunday and Monday, it has quickly become a favorite place and where I often lead private tours. Founded in 1885, the largest flea market in the world is composed of a total of 14 markets. Where to begin? Marché Vernaison is the first of the markets, and the most characteristic, if you’re in search of treasures in every form.
At Marché Vernaison you can find that rare item you’ve been searching your whole life for, whatever it may be. Each of the over 300 stalls specializes in anything from tableware to vintage clothing to ancient posters.
What’s more, the Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen offer the ideal place to look for one-of-a-kind souvenirs.
While shopping, stop by the famous (and very kitschy) Chez Louisette where you’ll feast on French specialties to the soundtrack of Edith Piaf melodies, sang live of course. It’s undoubtedly an experience!
Another of my favorite markets is Paul Bert, connected to Serpette and where you can dine at Philippe Starck’s Ma Cocotte, should you opt for a more gourmet meal. The décor alone is worth the visit!
Serpette boasts some of my favorite luxury bags and vintage fashion vendors, Le Monde du Voyage (Allée 5 Stand 15) and Patricia Attwook (Allée 2 Stand 7) respectively. Here too, discover dazzling vintage jewelry including pieces by Chanel and Schiaparelli is presented by famed collector Olwen Forest (Allée 3, stand 5).
One of my most cherished treasures from the Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen is French linen, found at Allée 2 Stand 111 at Paul Bert. Here you can weave in and out of the dozens of stalls, where mid-century modern furniture mingles with modern art. And a well-curated selection of antiques.
What about the other 11 markets at Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen? I’m happy to acquaint you in person. Sign up for a tour with me, here.
Ready to be captivated? If you’re in Paris before November 11th, discover Atelier des Lumières, Paris’s first digital art center featuring 120 video-projectors. The space, a former 19th-century iron foundry in the 11th arrondissement, opened this past April with the show Klimt and Vienna. “We cross over 100 years of Viennese painting through the pictorial work of Gustav Klimt (1862-1918), Egon Schiele (1890-1918) and Friedensreich Hundertwasser (1928-2000) thanks to a breathtaking visual and sound show.”
Here I take you on a little journey to discover these artists like you’ve never seen them before. Personally, I’ve only ever seen something as magical at Carrières de Lumières in Baux-de-Provence while visiting Baumanière.
This is a difficult experience to capture well on film or video, and one that merits a visit. You will thank me!
Every visit to Monet’s home and gardens in Giverny proves a unique experience in what can be considered a floral paradise. My first visit to Monet’s masterpiece was shortly after moving to Paris, my Italian in tow. I couldn’t wait to return, but next time I planned to bring my mom. I knew her artistic soul would find inspiration among the endless blossoms. How better to spend a mother/daughter day than frolicking in the gardens of one of the world’s most revered painters? Plus, Mother’s Day was just around the corner. The perfect gift.
During her recent visit we set off for a guided tour of Giverny with Paris City Visionin the comfort of a luxurious bus, avoiding the hassle of metros, trains and taxis. En route we were presented with information about Claude Monet’s life, exactly how he ended up living in Giverny, his love of flowers and gardening, and the many phases his home underwent following his death. An ideal history lesson while driving through the bucolic French countryside. Upon arrival we were able to skip the line and enjoy more time with Monet.
As soon as we entered the property, my mom’s eyes widened in awe of the hundreds of tulips before us, each section color coordinated and perfectly manicured, just as Monet would have liked. Our tour guide led us along the paths from one garden to another, with many an anecdote to share. Gray skies are not uncommon in Normandy but luckily for us, blue skies prevailed and temperatures were reminiscent of a hot summer day.
Led by our guide, we made our way from Monet’s home and flower garden Clos Normand, to his Japanese inspired water garden, stunning in its own right. Here we discovered the Japanese bridge that appears in many of his paintings, majestic weeping willows and the famous nympheas which continue to bloom throughout the summer. What a setting!
We walked through the gardens, recalling many of Monet’s works hanging in Paris’s Musée de l’Orangerie, vowing soon to return for another look. Meanwhile, what inspired these works blossomed before our eyes, in every hue imaginable. And to think, the gardens had only begun to show off their kaleidoscope of colors! Following tulips come roses, in gardens that continue to reveal their radiant blooms for months to come.
Having been eager to visit Monet’s home and gardens ever since she and my dad first traveled to Paris so many years ago, my mom was thrilled that we took this guided tour of Giverny with Paris City Vision. And I was thrilled to make one of her travel dreams come true.
With Mother’s Day coming up, take my advice and hop aboard Paris City Vision to Giverny. You’ll thank me!
The Louvre being the largest art museum in the world also makes it the most intimidating. With so much history packed under one roof, over 38,000 works of art to be exact, where to begin? Even getting in can be an experience in anxiety. Thankfully, starting March 30th you can skip the line and visit this majestic museum with a personal guide. The Paris Guy will lead you and a small group through the many galleries. Prepare for a fun, intimate and insightful experience, along with a few secrets revealed… After all, Paris is one of the culture capitals of the world! And The Paris Guy, with their expert guides, is well aware of this.
Did you know the Louvre used to be a fortress? In the medieval age, the Louvre was a military base before it became a royal residence. Given its regal history, the French Crown Jewels are elegantly on display in the Louvre’s Galerie d’Apollon. It was tradition to have a crown customized for each new Coronation in France, rather extravagant, don’t you think? With sparkles in your eyes, learn all about the history of the royal family.
Find out why Leonardo da Vinci’s famous portrait of Lisa Gherardini, titled Mona Lisa, is one of the most recognized works of art in existence. She’s thought to be a self-portrait, given the resemblace to da Vinci. Does anyone really know whether she’s happy or sad, or why she was painted in the first place? Maybe the guide does… Mona Lisa aside, discover other greats by Renaissance artist Botticelli, master of the 16th Century Venetian school Titian, artist Veronese, and works by the playboy Raphael.
The Louvre Museum officially opened its doors to the public in 1793. Not having been in years, I’m looking forward to taking an animated tour with The Paris Guy, and discovering many of the Louvre’s secrets. And when in Rome… there’s The Roman Guy.
Most of my artful afternoons in London alternate between the Tate Modern with Rothko and Picasso and the Tate Britain with my all-time favorite Paul Klee. A few weeks ago I jumped aboard Eurostar, this time headed to the Rosewood London hotel to indulge in another form of art, the edible kind.
Was I entering the home of a nobleman, I wondered as I strode through the regal wrought iron gates into the lobby of this eclectic hotel where behind every detail was a story waiting to be told.
With my tea date in tow, we were led to the Mirror Room, elegantly clad in neutral tones with welcoming pops of orange and yellow. The ceiling and select walls boasted a patchwork of mirrors. The room itself, much like the rest of the hotel, exuded art.
Rosewood London’s ‘Art Afternoon Tea’ began just over a year ago and we eagerly awaited the second batch of creations by Executive Chef Mark Perkins. I scanned the menu for a look at the latest inspirations and was pleased to be familiar with most of the artists. The curated selection included Banksy, Jeff Koons, Jackson Pollock, Wassily Kandinsky and Hubert Le Gall.
Following a glass of one the finest French bubbles, I was pleased to discover that gourmet tea brand Mariage Frères (again, French) was their tea of choice. I settled for a chai with hints of vanilla and began the feast, finger sandwiches first. British High Tea had to of course include freshly baked scones, and these were paired with clotted cream and lemon curd. Heavenly!
And now for the petit fours. Each delicate creation was a masterpiece in itself, revealing a depth of flavors almost as intricate as the artworks they inspired. As we cut into these hand-crafted confections, I felt a little guilt at the destruction, but it passed with each sweet inhale. Anyway, isn’t art meant to be devoured? I’ll be back in April for the next curation featuring an artist yet to be revealed.
As for Paris, favorite high teas include The Four Seasons and Le Meurice, both an experience in indulgence!
“I think of my work as ephemeral architecture, dedicated to the beauty of the female body.” – Christian Dior
Did you know that prior to becoming a fashion designer Christian Dior was a gallerist with a deep love for fine art? This was only a fraction of what I learned at the most recent exhibition to open at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, honoring 70 years of the House of Dior. With a carefully curated selection of 300 haute couture dresses alongside artworks, this expo pays tribute to the master himself Christian Dior, and those who followed in his vision including Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano, Raf Simons and Maria Grazia Chiuri. This was without a doubt, one of the most impressive fashion experiences of my life.
Following are highlights from my recent ‘Date with Dior’, just in case you can’t make it to the show yourself.
“True luxury needs good materials and good workmanship; it will never succeed unless its roots are profoundly embedded in sober influences and honest traditions.” – Christian Dior
“Deep in every heart slumbers a dream and the couturier knows it: every woman is a princess.” – Christian Dior
Entering regal department store Galeries Lafayette at 40 Boulevard Haussmann feels much like entering a museum (more on its fascinating history, here). The difference being what’s on display are shoes, bags and a carefully curated selection of designer clothing. Much like a museum the experience can be intimidating. To avoid losing yourself in the racks of ready-to-wear, Galeries Lafayette now offers a VIP shopping experience. Curious to learn more, I decided to head over to my favorite store.
Walking through the majestic space, the first thing that caught my eye was the current art exhibition ‘Le Jour Qui Vient’. Various phrases in both English and French are strewn along the store, ready to catch consumers attention. What’s better than shopping in the midst of art? I also stopped by the Galerie des Galeries for a look at the ‘Africa Now’ expo, ending July 29th. But back to VIP shopping…
I took the escalator to the 5th floor concierge desk, presented my voucher and was led to a private lounge. Here began my VIP shopping experience. I settled in to enjoy the stellar treatment, champagne, and of course the shopping. I had a few key summer essentials in mind.
If you’re still not sure about VIP shopping, I invite you to try it for yourself, and spend a day shopping like a vrai Parisian. You’ll be hooked! I’m offering two VIP passes (valued at 49€ each) for you and a friend. Just follow Galeries Lafayette on Instagram and leave a comment below. Winner announced June 23rd. Bonne chance!
What could be better than shopping in the midst of an art exhibition? Art and fashion, two of my favorites. Today I discovered both at Le Bon Marché, Paris’s first (and most exclusive) department store founded in 1838.
Japanese artist Chiharu Shiota‘s in-store exhibition titled “Where are we going?” begins on the ground floor where the artist has spun 300,000 yards of white thread throughout a designated space. It’s both calming and perplexing as you wander through this white abyss. I was so mesmerized, I almost forgot that I had come to shop. All 10 window displays too are filled with the artist’s web, some with ancient maps.
The celestial element of this exhibition by Chiharu Shiota is visually poetic. The symbolism stayed with me long after I had left the store. It comprises 150 white boats carried on a wave and invites us to be amazed but also to question. The artist establishes an analogy between human life and travel: people set off for an unknown destination, crossing an ocean of experiences, emotions, encounters and memories. Chiharu Shiota evokes a fresh start, while keeping the itineraries open: “Life is a voyage with no destination”.
For those in Paris, this exhibition that was meant to close on February 18th, will continue until April 2nd.
After Paris, Nice is the largest city of art and culture in France. And if you like art as much as I do, then you must make a stop in this culturally rich city, where art finds a home, even around the city streets. There is so much to do and see in the capital of the Côte d’Azur, where does one even begin? By stopping in the Tourism Office you can certainly gather enough information to keep you busy for days. Or you can use this list of my top things to do, see and eat. Some of this advice comes from my Nicoise friend, and who better to trust than a local?
SLEEP: To wake up surrounded by art and history, and with a view of the sea, stay at Le Negresco. This is the Art Hotel in Nice, and an experience you won’t ever forget. You can read all about my stay, here. If you’re on a budget, another artful option is Hotel Windsor, where each room is designed by a different artist.
VISIT: With over fifteen museums and dozens of galleries, which are most worth visiting? That remains a matter of opinion depending on interest, but ones that I would not miss are Musée Matisse, exhibiting one of the world’s largest collections of Henri Matisse’s works, Musée Marc Chagall, dedicated to much of the artist’s religious work, and the Museum of Contemporary and Modern Art, highlighting the work of more recent artists including sculptor and painter Niki de Saint Phalle. I recommend picking up a 48 hour Museum Pass which will gain you affordable access to these and many other museums and galleries. Keep in mind that most are closed on Tuesdays.
DO: To really get to know a city, stroll its morning markets. This is where you’ll interact with the locals and simply observe the life of the city. On Cours Saleya in the Old Town, there’s a market every morning from 6:30am. The most famous is the Marché aux Fleurs, or Flower Market, from Tuesday to Sunday. This market is the most well known, since it was in Nice that the first wholesale flower market in the world appeared in 1897. Here too you can purchase fruits and vegetables until around 1:30pm, with the flowers being sold until 5:30. If you’d like an expert guided tour of the food market followed by a cooking class, Rosa at Les Petits Farcis is your girl!
EAT: The specialities of Nice include pissaladière, bread with a topping of caramelised onions, olives, garlic and anchovies, and socca, a sort of fried chickpea cake, much like the farinata I often eat in Cinque Terre. Both of these you can try at many cafes in the Old City. Here are food expert David Lebovitz’s favorite socca spots in Nice. As for where to dine, one local spot serving the best plate of pesto pasta I’ve ever eaten outside of Italy, is La Merenda. It’s a tiny restaurant in the Old Town that doesn’t take reservations, but worth the wait. Also be sure to stop by Maison Auer for the best candied fruit and chocolate covered almonds in France, among other delicacies!
WALK: Be sure to walk around the Old Town and get lost in the maze of streets lined with pastel colored buildings. The Promenade des Anglais is the famous stretch in front of the sea. Follow it all the way to Castle Hillfor the best views of the city and its surroundings. Climb the free elevator at the seaside; look for the ‘Ascenseur de la Chateau‘ sign. From the top you’ll have a view of Nice all the way to Antibes, and from the other side you can see Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat.
My last trip to the Côte d’Azur was in March. I spent a little time in Nice but was eager to become better acquainted with this, the region’s capital. Aside from its Mediterranean climate, it’s a city of art and culture, another reason to fall in love with it. To properly immerse myself in the world of French art, where better to stay than at the historic hotel Le Negresco. Centrally located between Cannes and Monaco, it sits on the famous Promenade de Anglais. It is here in this National Historic Monument, that the French works of art from Louis XIII to modern art, have a home. I knew I would be in good company.
Upon entering, the grandeur of this hotel is hard to describe. I’ve stayed in many beautiful hotels around the world, but Le Negresco is in a class of its own. The Versailles Lounge alone takes your breath away, with Louis XIV’s portrait, marble floors, hand-painted ceiling, and elegant furnishings. The fireplace too, is original. I could imagine the decadent events having taken place in this salon since Henri Negresco opened the hotel in 1913, now over 100 years old.
Next I entered the Royal Lounge, centrally situated beneath a large glass dome. This is Negresco’s soul, and you can certainly feel it. Once an elegant ballroom, it’s now an elaborate event space, displaying portraits of French royalty, including Napoleon III. A stunning Baccarat chandelier provides the centerpiece. Fittingly, the hotel’s 93 year old owner Jeanne Augier’s portrait also has a place on the wall. After all, it is she who welcomes each guest to her home, which she has taken great pride in decorating. She lives on the top floor with her cat, and ensures that this private, family run hotel remains at the highest 5-star level in comfort and cuisine.
A good friend from Nice had often spoken about the restaurants at Le Negresco, particularly the vibrant and colorful La Rotonde. It’s in fact an 18th century carousel with wooden horses circling the restaurant. My eyes opened wide in amazement as I entered this space and understood immediately why it’s such a warm and welcoming place dedicated to families. The terrace opens up to the sea and this is where I chose to have lunch, accompanied by the sun. Breakfast would be enjoyed in the carousel.
Le Negresco is also known for its haute cuisine. Le Chantecler is Nice’s finest restaurant, with two stars in the Michelin Guide under the culinary expertise of chef Jean-Denis Rieubland. He defines his cuisine and style as “inspired by Provence, with the respect of its products and traditions”. This is THE place for French gastronomy, boasting a wine cellar of over 15,000 bottles, with woodwork dating back to 1751. After dinner you can unwind at the neighboring bar with live music and a good digestif.
With each of the 96 rooms and 21 suites uniquely decorated with period furniture, I was eager to take a closer look. Mrs Augier being an art connoisseur and collector, walking through the hotel and up the four floors feels much like being in a museum, with artwork from Salvador Dali and Sonia Delaunay, tapestries from Raymond Moratti and sculptures from Niki de Saint Phalle, to name a few. And the rooms? Timeless perfection.
I felt very much at home in my room overlooking the Bay of Angels and knew I would return to this Art Hotel called Le Negresco.
Those who read my blog know that other than travel, art is my greatest inspiration in designing my bags, and simply, in living. Those who know me well, know that Paul Klee is one of my most revered artists. When I found out that he, I mean his work, was coming to the Pompidou for a retrospective, I was elated. I freed my calendar for an opening night date with the master. The last time we “met” was almost 6 years ago at his last exhibition. This time 230 of Klee’s pieces are on display, as his work is examined through the prism of irony. According to Klee’s son Felix, “He always had a great taste for satire, for irony, for everything that isn’t quite serious.”
This show will be going on for quite some time, until August 1st to be exact. But for those unable to make it, here are a number of works that I carefully selected to share with you, many from his museum in Bern. Each one provoking unique thought, causing me to stop and stare. And often to smile. Enjoy the show!
St. Germain near Tunis. 1914
Green x Above Left. 1915
Chosen Boy. 1918
Adam and Little Eve. 1921
Fire at Full Moon. 1933
Snake Paths. 1934
Intention. 1938
High Spirits. 1939
Following the exhibition I stood for a while and admired the view. Knowing Klee would have approved.
Last week I joined Mediterranean travel aficionado Megan of Bella Vita Travels for a whirlwind tour of the Côte d’Azur, leaving grey skies in Paris for golden hues in the French Riviera. I hadn’t been down south for almost five years, since our journey to Bormes les Mimosas. Six hours via train, there I was in Nice, ready to discover just what makes this part of France so enchanting. Our first stop was the Medieval village of Mougins.
I was immediately smitten by this hilltop artists commune, once inhabited by creative elite including Jean Cocteau, Fernand Léger, Francis Picabia, Man Ray, Yves Klein, Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Winston Churchill, Catherine Deneuve, Édith Piaf & Jacques Brel. This too is where Picasso spent his last 12 years of life.
From there it was a short drive to Cannes, where many of today’s film stars can be found strolling along the boulevards, particularly during the famed film festival. Did we spot any? None that I could recognize…
The next stop was Antibes, a charming old town enclosed by 16th-century ramparts. Here we spent a glorious afternoon with a glass of rosé and views of the town Juan-les-Pins. Picasso too made his mark here; the castle where he stayed is now the Picasso Museum.
Not far away was a small medieval village perched atop a cliff, 1,401 feel above sea level to be exact. Thus, Èze is often called an “eagle’s nest”. Again, I was smitten.
Before returning to Nice we stopped in the harbor town of Villefranche. Now I understand why so many choose to make this colorful spot their home while visiting the riviera.
Back in Nice I was eager to explore this Mediterranean city, feeling very much at home on the French Riviera. With the sun leading our path, we discovered delicious farm to table dining at Le Canon, and local cooking school Les Petits Farcis, should we choose to take a market tour and cook our own Niçois meal. Next time!
I could have easily spent more time exploring this city of art and culture while savored more sunsets in the south, but it was time to return north for adventures in Burgundy. Next stop: Beaune.
Last week I had a meeting with bespoke travel company Bella Vita Travels at their home base on the Italian Riviera. Since it fell just before Valentine’s Day, my Italian and I decided to head to Florence for a quick stop. Having recently fallen back in love with Rome after over ten years, it was now Florence’s turn. With only 36 hours to spare, here are the highlights on where to sleep, eat, visit and shop. Feel free to follow in our footsteps!
SLEEP : Just steps away from the famous Ponte Vecchio, in the very heart of Florence sits Gallery Hotel Art, a modern boutique hotel, part of the four luxurious Lungarno Collection hotels by fashion icon Ferragamo.
EAT : Italy is all about the food, isn’t it? Recommendations are always welcome as not to get stuck in a tourist trap. Luckily, we met local artist and friend Kevin Berlin, known in Firenze as Giovanni Rossi, who directed us to traditional Florentine spot Osteria del Porcellino. Delicious! A more gastronomic favorite was Il Santo Bevitore, a tip from local expat Georgette, aka Girl in Florence. She also pointed us towards new hotspot Gurdulù where we enjoyed an after dinner drink.
DRINK : The aperitivo is taken very seriously in Italy, much like the apéritif in France. Thankfully, Giovanni knew just the spot next door to his home in Piazza della Signoria. Rivoire is the oldest bar in Florence, and almost where the negroni originated (that bar unfortunately no longer exists). If barman Luca is there ask him to mix you a Negroni while you peruse the book he wrote on this very cocktail. Incidentally, some of the best chocolate and sweets can also be found here!
SEE : With little time and much to see, we made a plan. Having already been to the Uffizi years ago, we paid a quick visit to Florence’s Cathedral, also known as the Duomo with it’s majestic dome, and set out to explore the city. We passed by Dante’s home (photo above) and south of the river Arno to the Oltrarno neighborhood. One afternoon was spent at the Basilica di Santa Croce, the largest Franciscan church in the world, featuring sixteen chapels. Here is the final resting place of Italian greats including Michelangelo, Galileo, Machiavelli, Gentile and Rossini. The three cloisters too are worth a visit (photo below).
SHOP : On my last visit to Florence I bought a leather jacket in one of the local leather markets. (I still wear it.) This time, I wasn’t looking for any souvenirs but did stumble upon the most beautiful perfumerie Aqua Flor, with scents unique to their shop. I couldn’t resist!
After a last negroni we ran to catch our train, enroute to the riviera, while dreaming of the next visit to Florence.
The last time I was in Rome was the first time I was in Italy, 13 years ago. A good friend and I took a trip to visit this historic land. Little did either of us know that we would both marry Italian men years later. Foreshadowing? I had not been to Rome since, and those who read this blog know I travel to Italy quite often, so my Italian and I decided it was time to return to the roots of Italian history. Our Roman Holiday began in the charming neighborhood of Trastevere, with a view of the Tiber river. With only a few days to explore the city, and endless sights to fall back in love with, we hit the streets, guided by blue skies and our trusted Lonely Planet.
Just steps away on the other side of the Tiber we found the sunlit and flower-filled Campo de’ Fiori and Piazza Navona, one of the most enchanting of Rome’s many squares. I immediately fell in love with the vibrant colors, illuminated by the sun, a stark contrast to the neutral tones of Paris. Kasia Dietz handbags Rome collection?
From one majestic fountain to another, we stopped to admire them all. Just don’t drink the water they say…
The Fountain of the Four Rivers, one of Bernini’s masterpieces, depicts Gods of the four great rivers in the four continents as were then recognized by the Renaissance geographers, including the Nile in Africa, the Ganges in Asia, the Danube in Europe and the Río de la Plata in America.
The Pantheon, a Greek adjective meaning “honor all Gods”, built and dedicated between A.D 118 and 125, is one of the most preserved and influential buildings in Rome. Not to mention majestic!
Newly restored and sparkling, I was tempted to jump into the Trevi Fountain La Dolce Vita style. I resisted.
On one of our exploratory walks, we climbed to the top of the Altar of the Fatherland, also known as National Monument to Victor Emmanuel II in honor of the first King of a unified Italy.
The views from the top were impressive, to say the least. Rome glowed in the late afternoon sun. I swooned.
One day was spent with friends, a Roman power couple you could say. Erica being a travel journalist and Rome expert, and Darius an archaeologist who digs on this very land. Who better to explore the Roman Forum with?
Once the center of Roman public life, we tried to imagine the events that took place here many centuries ago.
By chance, we gained access to sights that haven’t been made public yet. For my (and your) eyes only…
We walked from the Roman Forum up 40 meters to Palatine Hill… Our expert guide Darius Arya leading the way.
From there we saw the Colosseum, the largest amphitheater ever built. An engineering & architectural marvel.
I stood for a while admiring the Colosseum before we went inside, in complete awe. To the right of it is the apartment from film LaGrande Bellezza, not a bad view…
Enamored with sculptor Bernini, we spent an afternoon at the Villa Borghese. I’ve learned to always look down.
Our last stop was at Saint Peter’s Basilica which will leave even an atheist marveling at this Renaissance structure, both inside and out. Already, we couldn’t wait to return. Rome had captured our hearts.
Often I walk past Hôtel de Ville, Paris’ City Hall since 1357, and always I wonder what the interior looks like. This neo-renaissance building houses the local administration, and since 1977, the Mayor of Paris. Rebuilt after the original burnt down during the Paris Commune in 1871, it sits close to the Seine, bordering the famed Marais and attracting all who pass by its regal structure. Very often an art exhibition takes place within or outside its walls.
Every September, Les Journées du Patrimoine or Heritage Days, envelop Paris. For these 2 days it’s possible to visit monuments & sites usually not accessible to the public, for free, if you don’t mind standing in line, sometimes for hours.
We arrived to Rhodes and immediately fell under the spell of its majestic medieval city, the largest walled city in Europe. We explored the tangle of roads which led to the Jewish Quarter and paid a visit to the impressive Archaeological Museum. But our main destination was the town of Lindos, an hour by bus and a world of difference.
Rising over the traditional white homes of Lindos sits an acropolis dating back to the 10th century BC. As we ventured up the hill, we arrived to our home, Melenos Lindos, what appeared to be a village within a village; a world of its own that I was eager to discover.
I’m certainly an advocate of expressing love in it’s many forms, both privately and publicly, but when it starts to weigh heavily (in this case literally) even I, a diehard romantic become disenchanted. This is the case with Paris’ much loved bridge, also a symbol of love.
In 2008, tourists from around the world began attaching ‘love locks’ to the Pont de Arts. By engraving their initials & throwing the key into the Seine, their love was forever locked.
In February 2014, well over 700,000 locks were estimated to be attached to the bridge.
There was much concern about the possible damage caused by the weight of the locks. In June of 2014, that fear was justified when part of the parapet on the bridge collapsed.
In August 2014, the Paris Mayor’s Office began to encourage “selfiies” in place of love locks, with their campaign “Love Without Locks”. “Our bridges can no longer withstand your gestures of love. Set them free by declaring your love with #lovewithoutlocks.” Even a No Love Locks campaign was started by two concerned women who call Paris home.
Over 50% of the panels on the Pont des Arts had to be boarded over with plywood.
On September 18, 2014, much to tourists dismay, the City Hall of Paris replaced three panels with glass as they searched for a suitable replacement which could hold no locks.
Starting on June 2015, the locks were removed, with Health and Safety officials stating “the romantic gestures cause long term Heritage degradation and danger to visitors”.
As of 2015, over a million locks weighing around 45 tons were attached to the bridge.
These days, Pont des Arts has become less about locks and more about art. Artists Jace, El Seed, Brusk & Pantonio have been commission to decorate the bridge with their work.
As I walked the length of the bridge and around it, I admired the graffiti artwork and the stories being told, knowing that this will in time be replaced by padlock-proof glass panels.
Love continues to reign in padlock form as tourists attach their locks to the sturdier sides.
I couldn’t help but think that true love should be set free, rather than locked. Yes, I know it’s only symbolic. But there are many less damaging ways to express our sentiments.
What are your thoughts about love and locks and this new look of Pont des Arts?
As I return to the art world of Paris, with so many must-see exhibitions going on, I reflect on an expo my mom and I recently saw at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. China : Through the Looking Glass was the most impressive show I had seen in a while.
What is it exactly? As stated by the MET, This exhibition explores the impact of Chinese aesthetics on Western fashion and how China has fueled the fashionable imagination for centuries. In this collaboration between The Costume Institute and the Department of Asian Art, high fashion is juxtaposed with Chinese costumes, paintings, porcelains, and other art, including films, to reveal enchanting reflections of Chinese imagery. Perhaps better if I explain visually what I saw through the looking glass…
Following are a few favorites, both the traditional costumes and their modern counterparts.
Semiformal Robe for Qianlong Emperor, 1736-95 + Yves Saint Laurent / Tom Ford 2004-5
Yves Saint Laurent / Tom Ford 2004-5 + Woman’s Semiformal Robe, 19th Century
Formal Robe for Guangxu Emperor 1875-1908
The three floors of the exhibition, including artifacts & films, transported us to another era.
Portobello Wallpaper / Alexander McQueen 2006-7
With more than 140 pieces of haute couture, including this gown by Guo Pei (2010) and avant-garde ready-to-wear alongside Chinese art, there was much to be inspired by. We left with eyes filled with visions hard to recount. Best to experience the richness of Chinese history for yourself, before it ends on August 16th.
Few people know that within Galeries Lafayette, one of Paris’ most prestigious department stores, lies an art gallery, aptly named Galerie des Galeries. I discovered this on a recent private tour of this fashion haven with Rendezvous en France. Can’t fashion be art?
Painter Karina Bisch has taken over the space with expo Arlequine, the walls covered in a 70 meter long canvas. Window-like openings within the canvas reveal colorful paintings.
Six characters stand within the open space, dressed in outfits created by Karina, named for select artists including Sonia, Varvara, Giacomo, Pablo, Ellsworth and Gustav.
The space is transformed into a theatre in which the mannequins are the spectators.
Thank you Galeries Lafayette, for inspiring the shopper. What’s next? Expo ends May 9th.
Last week I finished my latest handbag collection inspired by recent travels to Andalucia, Spain. Who better to shoot these new bags with than one of my favorite Paris photographers, the uber talented Catherine O’Hara. We set the date for a clear and calm Sunday, and headed for one of my favorite settings, Île Saint-Louis. To avoid the crowds we descended the stairs and the heart of the city became ours, at least for a moment.
To celebrate the coming of spring, I’m giving away one of my new Andalucia handbags. {From left to right: Cordoba, Seville, Granada.} To enter, leave a comment with your favorite bag and where you would like to travel. Winner chosen at random on March 10th. You can also enter via instagram at: instagram.com/kasia_dietz
Here’s an outtake with Catherine’s adorable pooch Percy. I couldn’t resist a shot with him!
Thank you Catherine for such gorgeous photos! Had a wonderful time with you and Percy!
During our recent trip to Andalucia, I became enchanted with the tilework of the Alcázar of Seville. These press-moulded tiles inherited the Islamic love for geometry while taking on figurative compositions inspired by fabrics during the Gothic and Renaissance periods. I was inspired by the colors and shapes and sought to create a modern version in bag form.
The range of motifs produced in Seville was varied, and their use in architecture diverse.
As soon as we returned to Paris I set to work on a new Andalucia handbag collection…
Artist Sonia Delaunay is one of the inspirations behind my handbags. Arriving to Paris in 1905, Sonia believed “modernity could be expressed through the primacy of color in art and the dynamic interplay of its dissonances and harmonies”. Due in large part to her beliefs and the quality of her work, Delaunay is responsible for bringing art into daily life.
I was overjoyed to spend an afternoon with my muse at her Musée d’Art Moderne retrospective in Paris, what was once her home. ( I often visit her paintings at Pompidou’s permanent collection.) Over 400 works were on display, including paintings, wall decorations, gouaches, prints, fashion items and textiles. A designer’s paradise!
Art and life became one. “It was my life and I worked the whole time, but I wasn’t working – I was living – and that is the difference.”
Delaunay’s textiles varied greatly from the naturalistic designs popular in the early 1920s. Her fabrics incorporated geometric shapes, often with strong, bold colors.
I often look at paintings and see them as fabric. That is after all, how I came up with my wearable art designs. For me, there is no better example of this than the work of Delaunay.
“For me there is no gap between my painting and my so-called ‘decorative’ work. I never considered the ‘minor arts’ to be artistically frustrating; on the contrary, it was an extension of my art.” Sonia’s vision was uniquely vibrant. For her “color is the skin of the world”.
Paris is a city steeped in history, with rarely a modern structure in sight. This is why the Fondation Louis Vuitton is such an important and monumental museum and cultural center for Paris. It not only houses art, but in my opinion it personifies art. It opened in late October in Paris’s Bois de Boulogne, and soon after that I was lucky enough to experience it. My last trip into the mind and work of Frank Gehry was at Guggenheim Bilbao and more recently NYC’s Guggenheim. This one was perhaps the most impressive of them all!
Frank Gehry’s vision was realized thanks to the generous funding of LVMH, at a cost of no less than $135 million.Within this 43 meter high private foundation of glass, concrete, timber and steel, you can find the art collection of Bernard Arnault, LVMH’s art-collecting owner and France’s wealthiest man. “You don’t put a price tag on a dream,” says Arnault.Eleven galleries provide 3,850 sq meters (41,441 square feet) of exhibition space. Pas mal!
From the top you can perfectly view Paris’ business district of La Défense in the distance.
I was enchanted by the mirrors and moat on the ground floor.
Outside, the cascading waterfall creates a feeling of serenity amidst the concrete.
My Italian and I were so fascinated with the reflective structure and the way in which the light changed throughout the afternoon, that we stayed until nightfall.
In an attempt to make even a small difference in the world, one that is often fraught with conflict, I designed the United Collection, representing people coming together in freedom, harmony, balance and unity. Twenty percent of all proceeds from sales of the United bags will go towards the global humanitarian organization, International Red Cross. With my mission in place, this was certainly a fun project to work on. Photographer Hélène Loire and I spent a beautiful late afternoon photographing the collection, beginning with that which we are all entitled to, freedom.
freedom (n): The power or right to act, speak, or think as one wants.
In addition to donating 20% of United bag sales to International Red Cross, I’m giving away a bag to one of my readers (chosen at random Dec 1st) as an early holiday gift. Just leave a comment below stating which United bag is your favorite, and be sure to join my designing life on Facebook, Twitter &Instagram. Meanwhile, let’s all try to maintain a sense of freedom, harmony, balance and unity.
I first visited Picasso in Paris ten years ago, stopping to admire the 17th-century mansion known as the Hôtel Salé, on one of my many walks around the Marais. I remember thinking what a shame that so much of his personal work was in storage, as there was scant wall space to display the artwork. Little did I know I would end up living just a stone’s throw from this artist’s legacy, but with only the garden open for viewing. As anyone who is a fan of Picasso’s work knows, the Musée Picasso has been closed for the last 5 years (3 years longer than expected), undergoing extensive renovations.
On Friday morning, October 24th, one day shy of Picasso’s birthday and the official opening, I was invited inside the newly renovated museum, now three times the size and much more impressive.
I walked around the five floors in awe of the renewed space which now boasts over 400 of Picasso’s paintings, drawings and sculptures, as well as works from his personal collection.
Musée Picasso plans to host one major exhibit each year. Next year, in collaboration with New York City’s Museum of Modern Art, it will be a show revolving around Picasso’s sculpture. Until then, I plan to spend many a Paris morning with Picasso.
This past spring when my mom came to visit, I thought about where to bring her. Last year we had explored Chantilly, and while it would have been a lovely time of year to visit Giverny, I opted to be more creative and we ventured to Auvers-sur-Oise. This commune, only about 27 kilometers northwest of Paris, was once home to the Impressionists. More specifically, Paul Cézanne, Charles-François Daubigny, Camille Pissarro, Jean-Baptiste-Camille Corot and, Vincent van Gogh.
This was a trip into Van Gogh’s life. It was incredible to be amidst the church that he once painted.
It is here that he rests alongside his brother Theo, who passed away only 6 months after Vincent.
The next stop was Château d’Auvers where we discovered a most insightful interactive journey into the lives of the Impressionists. A unique experience! Not to mention the breathtaking gardens…
As the sun was setting we walked the length of the estate, reflecting on years long gone.
It was time to bid farewell to Auvers-sur-Oise. Like the artists before us, we headed back to Paris.
My ideal holiday includes good art and gourmet food. Simple, no? When we decided to embark on adventures in the Basque Country, I knew there would be plenty of both. Our first stop on this whirlwind weekend away was Bilbao, which means the Guggenheim. I had dreamed of visiting this Frank Gehry masterpiece since it’s inauguration in 1997. Finally, it was time.
I was in awe as we reached the museum, it’s scale-like facade illuminated beneath a cloudy sky.
Every angle of the grand edifice uniquely reflecting the light.
Anish Kapoor’s impressive Tall Tree & The Eye standing tall, and observing keenly.
Jeff Koons’ Tulips filled the outdoor space with color.
Throughout the day, as the light changed, so too did the reflections.
One of the most interesting pieces was Louise Bourgeois’ Maman, a larger than life spider.
What made me the happiest was Richard Serra’s The Matter of Time, a permanent installation of eight sculptures by this artist whose work I have admired for years. What luck to find him in Bilbao!
Ernesto Neto, a Brazilian artist, was new to me. I enjoyed experiencing his work, quite literally.
Yoko Ono too, was a featured artist, along with her wishing tree. Yes, we made a few wishes!
We spent most of the day within and around this museum, itself a work of art. Unforgettable.
But it was now time for San Sebastián, or Donostia to the locals. The beach and pinxtos awaited…
Last Sunday my Italian and I took to the streets of Paris for a treasure hunt unlike any other, joined by over 30 friends and Paris bloggers. We were searching for the likes of Montaigne and Rimbaud, among other hidden gems. This hunt amidst historic Paris being THATRue, the latest creation by Daisy de Plume, mastermind behind THATLou. You can read about my THATLou adventures here.
Being a great fan of Daisy’s endeavors at cleverly educating while entertaining the masses on French culture and history, I was honored to be one of the co-hosts along with Forest of 52 Martinis and The Chamber. I designed a THATRue bag for the occasion, to be won & worn by the winning team.
Our team included Erica of HiP Paris Blog, and though we did not win, we had a blast discovering corners of the left bank none of us had known, and my Italian even sang for us, to earn extra points of course! Though he seemed to enjoy it. As quoted in the latest feature in The Huffington Post, “This new Paris scavenger hunt is the perfect way to see the city.” I could not agree more.
These days, while I visit Paris museums and galleries, admiring the masters, I’m also on the hunt for art and artists with which to decorate my home. During my around the world travels, it was often undiscovered artists that caught my eye, a lacquer painting by a local artist from the village of Hoi An in Vietnam (see below), or a Chilean artist whose work I became enamored with in Santiago. And then there was the Brazilian sculptor in Olinda… and thus began my art collection.
Since I don’t currently travel to these remote lands, I search online. Most recently I discovered incredible abstract drawings by artists from around the world, from a favorite London based gallery, Saatchi! Not to mention paintings by talented emerging artists. A few of my favorites…
Through the international site Etsy, I’ve also discovered two artists whose work I admire, one of them a Danish girl living in Paris, and the other a Dutch artist based in Rotterdam.
As anyone in Paris is well aware, given the amount of fashion forward (and fashion faux pas) walking the streets of Paris these days, it’s Fashion Week. Rather than attending crowded shows to catch a glimpse of new trends that are often only seen on the catwalk, I chose a more inspired path. Friday night was the opening of the Dries Van Noten exhibition at Musée des Arts Décoratifs. I was lucky enough to join Anne of Ritournelle Blog, along with the who’s who of fashion, including Dries himself! This is the Belgian fashion icon’s first solo exhibition, aptly titled Inspirations. Not merely a fashion exhibition, but a look into the mind of a designer through art, imagination and creativity.
The starting point of a collection can be either very literal or abstract, a painting, a certain colour, a thought, a gesture, a smell, a flower, anything really. What matters to me is the journey from that first flash of inspiration to the final destination, the individual garments, the collection.
I was impressed and inspired by this in-depth look into the mind of an artist. Here’s what Suzy Menkes of the International New York Times had to say, along with a video tour with Dries himself. This exhibition, which took 2 years to mount, will be on display until August 31st. Well worth a visit for anyone with creative sensibilities and a love for fashion, art & travel. Worth even a trip to Paris!
Who says Florida only offers palm trees, sandy beaches and shopping malls? On our recent trip to visit my mom, we discovered a little piece of paradise, Japanese style. And we LOVE Japan!
George S. Morikami arrived to the United States from Japan in 1906, to work as a pineapple farmer. He was one of the last surviving members of the Yamato Colony that settled west of Delray Beach at the turn of the century. It is thanks to Mr. Morikami, for his donation of 140 acres of land to the state of Florida, that the memory of him and his people lives on. Visiting the Morikami Museum and Japanese Gardens gracefully transports you to another world.
Upon these grounds you feel free.
With rock gardens in which to ponder life’s mysteries.
And a museum in which to transport yourself to Japan.
What is a trip to New York City without a visit to one of the many impressive museums or galleries? Since my Italian had never been to Frank Lloyd Wright’s architectural masterpiece, and one of my favorite spaces, the Guggenheim Museum, there we spent a chilly but inspired afternoon.
Just in time to catch the last days of the Christopher Wool exhibition.
Wool, an artist from Chicago who began his career in NYC in the 1980’s, developed an art style that used language as his subject matter. A fan of his work, I found these pieces most thought provoking.
Rendering a word or phrase in bold, blocky stencils arrayed across a geometric grid, he preserved the specific form and order of the language, but freely stripped out punctuation, disrupted conventional spacing, and removed letters.
The resulting compositions oscillate between verbal communication & pure formalism, with their structural dissonance reflecting the state of anxiety & agitation conjured by the texts themselves.
Next stop for Wool, the Pompidou? I can think of a few French words and expressions…
Often I question, what is happiness? Is it something we can control? For me, happiness can be as simple as sitting along the banks of the Seine, watching the sun set behind Notre Dame. Equally, cruising around the spectacular Greek island of Milos on a catamaran beneath a clear blue sky, or floating in a hot air balloon above the natural wonder that is called Cappodocia. Both of these memories elicit great happiness. Come to think of it, almost anything related to travel, beauty, love (or nearly anything sweet), brings me happiness. I recently read an article that shed a little light.
When I discovered an exhibition based on this very topic, I couldn’t wait to go. Stefan Sagmeister is creator of The Happy Show, a study of happiness, a topic that has long intriqued him and led him on his happiness hunt. This Austrian-born graphic artist, whom I’ve had the pleasure of meeting in New York City, asks “Is happiness a muscle just like any other?”
The first question, what makes us happy? (Genetics, Activites & Life Conditions)
How happy are you on a scale of 1-10? Looks like the gumballs are almost gone in #9.
What makes us unhappy? “Trying to look good limits my life”
It has been proven that taking risks increases happiness. I agree!
My Italian and I attended the opening of the expo and were very happy to speak with Stefan about his studies on happiness and what inspired him to put together the show, as well as the film he’s working on. For those interested, here are 7 rules for making more happiness from Stefan.
The Happy Show is making it’s way around the world, from Philadelphia to Toronto to Los Angeles and now in Paris at La Gaîté Lyrique. Will the exhibition itself make you happy? You can bet on it.
Traveling from Paris to London via Eurostar takes just as much time as traveling from New York City to my home in Westhampton Beach via LIRR. With a commute of just over 2 hours, whenever London calls, I answer. My latest chunnel journey was in search of fabrics. While in Londontown there was much going on in the art world (good timing!). In addition to a Paul Klee exhibition at the Tate Modern, followed by a chance Paul McCartney concert in Covent Garden (have I mentioned that timing is everything?), one of my highlights was an afternoon spent at the Frieze Masters.
Many great works to be found within the tents of Regent’s Park.
Some of the most interesting artworks I discovered in the park itself. Looks like fabric!
This piece reminded me of Richard Serra, whom I adore.
Was most impressed by this larger than life face, changing as you moved around it.
Reflecting on the artful day.
To accompany the art tour, the sun shone brightly. A perfect day in the park.
What makes a perfect ladies night? How about champagne, macarons, nude men and good friends? That’s exactly the ladies night I just had the pleasure of indulging in. Following a Girls Guide to Paris soirée to launch their new magazine, I met girlfriends at the Musee d’Orsay. That’s where we found the nude men. Did I neglect to mention they were sculpted?
Rarely in history has the male nude, the basis of Academic art training, been displayed the way the beauty of the nude woman has, and still is. The Musee d’Orsay decided to change this by curating the exhibition, Masculine / Masculine. Their aim is to take an “interpretive, playful, sociological and philosophical approach to exploring all aspects and meanings of the male nude in art.”
And how pleased are we women? And quite a fair share of men too.
What most impressed me was the variety of artworks in view.
From Rodin to Bacon, Warhol, Pierre et Gilles, Cocteau, Flandrin and many more masters.
There was certainly a fair share of ogling by eager onlookers, but well worth braving the crowds.
And worth snapping a few photos, even though it was forbidden. Shhhh!
If you are in Paris, grab your girlfriends (or go solo) and head to the Orsay!
Clandestinely situated down a long alleyway on an unassuming street in the 9eme arrondissement, sits the house of painter Ary Scheffer, also known as the Musée de la Vie Romantique (Museum of the Romantics). How did I not know about this earlier? I decided to venture there on a sunny morning, with friend and fellow romantic Jacquelyn, to explore this artist’s home, dedicated to the arts and literature of the first half of the XIXth century. Truly a hidden gem!
It is here that much of writer George Sand‘s memorabilia are displayed including portraits, pens, jewelry… even her hair! An impressive collection. Incidentally, this famous writer and mistress of Chopin, once lived on my street in the Marais!
After touring the house’s many chambers, filled with landscape paintings by George Sand and portraits by Ary Scheffer, we took our romantic musings to the garden.
A memorable morning spent with the romantics… and a new favorite hideaway in Paris.
Yesterday my Italian and I spent a hot summer day surrounded by lights and optical illusions at the Grand Palais. Light and motion in 20th Century art. What a unique and dynamic expo, aptly named Dynamo. Needless to say, we left illuminated! Following are some of those enlightened moments…
During my mom’s recent visit to Paris, we decided to take her for a day trip. Where else but to a château? Less than 30 minutes by train lies the town of Chantilly, home to a spectacular château spanning the 14th to 19th centuries, not to mention chantilly cream, which in itself is worth the trip!
Our first stop was the Grand Stables. Yes, horses do still live within this admirable structure!
Recently I attended the opening of the Roy Lichtenstein retrospective at the Pompidou. How could I resist a major American artist from the Pop Art era? Though little did I know the breadth of his artistic skill until I walked through the galleries exhibiting his over 100 works. Many pieces were not allowed to be photographed, but I did my best to curate my own mini Lichtenstein exhibit for those who aren’t able to make it, or to entice those who can, to go. Capturing both his sculptures and his paintings, well beyond the world of Pop. Well worth the visit into the mind and life of an artist.
“I want my painting to look as if it has been programmed. I want to hide the record of my hand.”
“The subjects aren’t what holds my interest.”
“Brushtrokes are almost a symbol of art.”
“I’ve always wanted to make up someone as a cartoon.”
One of my creative passions (other than designing bags) is decorating. Finding just the right furniture and accessories to fill the space and create a home. Since moving to our new apartment, this is exactly what I have been doing. With the approval of my Italian, of course. (Thankfully, he usually agrees with my taste.) In need of a carpet for the living room I thought why not find one in Istanbul? And with the help of our local friends during our recent visit, that is exactly what we did.
Rather than brave the Grand Bazaar with the tourists, Emre took us to the street of rugs. And there began our hunt for the perfect piece to complete our Parisian mid-century modern salon.
The friendly sales people, who were busy mending a carpet when we entered, were more than pleased to help us, having many options of traditional woven kilims as well as patchwork rugs.
We were shown dozens of rugs, mostly the patchwork style which I had quickly fallen in love with for it’s ancient yet modern allure. And then the bargaining began… Which was the chosen rug?
An elegant black and white patchwork, that fits perfectly with our decor, and is the best souvenir we could have brought home. I knew this was our rug as soon as I saw it, but what fun to experience running around the carpet stores! Now perhaps a trip to Morocco for a lamp?
When the sun comes out, so do the Parisians. On a recent spring-like day, moods were high and there was a lightness evident in the air. Now this is what spring is meant to feel like! My Italian and I joined a group of friends at the gardens of the Palais Royal for my favorite summer pastime, le pique-nique. It was here too that I played my first game of pétanque, the famous French sport so often played in and around Paris. Immediately I took a liking to this game of ball throwing, even winning a few times.Perhaps the champagne helped!
It was beneath these blue skies that once again, I felt lucky to live within such immense beauty.
On the way home, a little surprise in the form of fashion to end a well-spent day, la vie parisienne.
![abstract N 632 [emerald green] by Koen Lybaert](https://i2.wp.com/www.loveinthecityoflights.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/abstract-N-632-emerald-green-by-Koen-Lybaert.jpg)
