Christo and Jean-Claude in Paris

With Paris safely back to life following the summer holidays, the city’s art scene is buzzing, from large museums to intimate galleries. One show not to miss that unfortunately many will miss due to travel restrictions is Christo and Jean-Claude Paris! going on at Centre Pompidou until October 19th. A great fan of Christo’s work ever since I walked through his exhibition The Gates in New York’s Central Park in 2005, I had the good fortune to speak with him in an interview last November for this article in Hemispheres. Our meeting in Paris never materialized, unfortunately, as the 85-year-old artist sadly passed away in late May. His and Jean-Claude’s legacy lives on, as you’ll see in these select works from the Pompidou exhibition. To learn more about the life of Christo and Jean-Claude in Paris, here’s an insightful and touching film by the Maysles brothers.

As you can tell from these works, Christo wrapped various objects with fabric stiffened with lacquer and tied with string, including the Wrapped Toy Horse, 1963.

Earning a living as a portrait painter for high society, Christo first met Jean-Claude while painting her mother.

Christo’s best-known work during his Parisian years was his Packages, created between 1958 and 1964. He played with material and color and never disclosed what was inside the packages.

Christo’s “Store Fronts” series in which he covered the inside of recycled display cases and rebuilt storefronts with paper, confirmed his interest in exploring an architectural dimension in his work. This is what led to his urban projects to follow.

In 1975, Christo and Jean-Claude came up with the idea of wrapping the Pont-Neuf bridge with golden sandstone polyamide fabric. Their goal was to create a temporary work in direct contact with reality. They wanted to create interaction among those who walked along the bridge. It wasn’t until 1985 that their dream was realized.

As Christo shared with me during our conversation, Paris was the only city in which he had planned on creating two major installations. His second being the wrapping of the Arc de Triomphe in a silver-blue fabric, which will now take place in Fall 2021. I have no doubt that Christo and Jean-Claude will be there in spirit.

Adventures in Alsace

The beauty of France lies not only in its diverse regions but in the charm and character of its diversity. Having explored many of France’s landscapes, from Normandy to the Côte d’Azur to the Basque, historically rich Alsace remained a mystery. Eager to discover this region, we boarded a train direction east. In just over three hours we made our way to the small village of Saint-Hippolyte, the perfect spot from which to immerse ourselves in the intimacy of the Alsace region. I had long dreamt of visiting this region, famous for its half-timbered houses and where Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc are among the notable white wines produced.

We settled into regal Hotel Val Vignes, the former castle of the Dukes of Lorraine turned religious college, now a hotel where retired Marists continue to reside. From our window, we had a bird’s eye view of Saint-Hippolyte, along with the bicycles that would take us on our journey.

Following a decadent dinner at Val Vignes during which we tasted local wines and produce, we fell asleep to the sounds of silence. The following morning we took to the winding vine-filled paths leading to picture-perfect villages. While the legendary Alsace Wine Route is 170 kilometers long, we only planned to bike a fraction of it.

Our first stop was a short 3.4 kilometers away to Bergheim, a fortified town that quickly won both our hearts.

The remainder of the afternoon was spent weaving our way along the bike paths, occasionally stopping to taste the nearly ripe harvest. We ended the bike tour in Ribeauvillé for a proper tasting of Alsatian wines.

The following day we ambitiously biked 20 kilometers along the wine route to Kaysersburg, well known for its authentic character and charm. We were completely smitten and spent the afternoon becoming acquainted with the town’s well-preserved 15th-century towers, bridge, and ramparts.

Being in no rush to return home to Saint-Hippolyte, we stopped at the gem that is Kientzheim, vowing to return.

We took the long road back to Saint-Hippolyte, Hotel Val Vignes standing tall beyond the stretch of vineyards. This weekend sejour was dedicated to the villages of Alsace. Our next visit to the region will include the medieval Château du Haut-Kœnigsbourg in the Vosges mountains just west of Sélestat. We’ll also make a stop at La Montagne des Singes or Monkey Mountain, home to over 200 Barbary macaques roaming free in 60 acres of forest. Next time, we’ll plan to drive.

Following our love affair with the vibrant flower-filled villages, we made our way to Strasbourg, the capital city of the Alsace region. Formally the seat of the European Parliament, we quickly noticed how, much like the entire region, the city’s architecture perfectly blended German and French influences. I was left in awe!

With a stop to the famous Cathédrale Notre Dame de Strasbourg and a walk around the city followed by a heavenly meal of tarte flambée known locally as Flammekueche, we hopped aboard a train back to Paris, fully satiated with Alsatian memories.

Travel by Bag

While I love to design bags, clutches, and purses, more recently I created something a little different, a combination of my sashes and purses. This hands-free bag, or what I consider a more chic version of the fanny pack, is essentially a sash or a belt, worn by both men and women. As with all of my collections the Kasia Dietz city sashes are limited edition, inspired by travel and made in Paris. What’s more, these stylish sash bags available in one or two pocket versions are reversible! All photos by the talented Catherine O’Hara.

Each sash bag is inspired by a city as these sashes are perfect for running around, or even simply just running.

I remember the days when money belts were used for traveling. These sashes worn around the waist/hips or across the body safely hold money, smartphones, passports… the ideal unisex travel accessory! Travel by bag to Paris, London, New York or Tokyo, take your pick!

I hope you enjoy these sash bags as much as I loved creating them! Stay tuned for more in the months ahead.

Favorite French Destinations

For those of you based in Europe, or for anyone planning a visit to France as soon as borders open once again, I’m sharing a few of my favorite French destinations. Aside from Nice and the French Riviera, each of these cities or towns is a 2-3 hour express train ride from Paris. Included are tips on where to stay and dine as well as cultural suggestions. Bon Voyage!

A top destination in Provence is the city of Avignon. I enjoyed my visit there so much that I introduced my mom to this Provençal gem last year. We stayed at the regal hotel La Mirande neighboring the Pope’s Palace. I also suggest renting a car and exploring the stunning landscapes of the Luberon. Hotel recommendations include the luxurious Coquillade Village and 5-star family-run Baumaniere. For a dose of high-class R&R, book a stay at hotel Saint-Remy in the heart of dreamy Saint-Rémy-de-Provence.

If you don’t mind a long train ride (just under 6 hours direct), head straight to Nice on the Côte d’Azur. This dynamic city where life takes on a slower pace will charm you with its vivid colors and local cuisine. While you’re here, make sure to visit Cannes, Antibes and Èze, each one uniquely captivating. For fragrance and art lovers, Grasse and Mougins will win your hearts.

Often referred to as a ‘mini Paris’, the elegant city of Bordeaux is in a class of its own. From here you can head to Arcachon and Cap Ferret for a more remote destination, or join the surfers for sunset in Biarritz.

For a taste of island life where fresh oysters are always on the menu, head to Île de Ré just west of La Rochelle. The best way to discover this picture-perfect maze of villages is by bike.

A town that I can’t seem to speak highly enough of is Beaune, in the heart of Burgundy. One of the best ways to explore this wine region is by bike. The capital of the region, Dijon also merits a visit.

Heading north to Normandy, the charm of Honfleur is undeniable. Follow the paths of Impressionist masters Gustave Courbet, Eugene Boudin and Claude Monet, and stop at Étretat for a cliffside spectacle. For a real taste of Normandy, head to Cherbourg and become lost in the surrounding villages. A more sobering experience is taking a walk along the D-Day beaches.

There’s much to explore in Brittany, but one city I highly recommend visiting is Saint-Malo. From here it’s just a quick drive or bus ride to one of France’s treasures, the pre-Romanesque church of Mont Saint-Michel. Stay overnight for a sunset you’ll not soon forget.

If castles thrill you as they do me, you’re in for a real treat in the Loire Valley. A lovely base from which to explore the region is the hillside city of Blois. From there you can drive or bike (25 kilometers) to the Châteaux de Chambord. Another picture-perfect setting is the town of Amboise, home to the Château d’Amboise. Here too sits Leonardo da Vinci’s last home, the Château du Clos Lucé. One of the most regal castles not to miss is the 16th-century masterpiece, the Château de Chenonceau.

Biking in Burgundy

Last weekend we set off on our first post-confinement adventure. Where better than to one of my most beloved towns of Beaune in the Burgundy region. During our first trip to Beaune four years ago, we had become smitten with the history and charm of this picture-perfect town and vowed to return. Given the need for social distancing, biking through the vineyards made for an enchanting weekend escape.

The ideal setting from which to begin the biking adventures was 16th-century Hôtel Le Cep, our favored address in the heart of Beaune. This time we even had a chance to discover Le Cep’s new wine tasting cellar Saint-Félix. From here we hopped aboard electric bikes available at the hotel and hit the long and winding roads.

We quickly learned that the bike path from Beaune is clear and easy to navigate. Biking past the verdant vineyards felt intoxicating! And we hadn’t even tasted a sip of wine yet.

Our first stop along the southwest route was to Pommard, a village famous for its Côte de Beaune wine production. Soon afterward we passed Volnay and its vineyards, producing famed wines since the 6th century.

The electric bikes proved a smart move as they allowed us to bike further and longer without tiring as easily.

Having been stuck at home for months without so much as a park to visit (Paris parks remained closed during the confinement), we fluttered along the paths like birds who had just been set free. And truth be told, with nary a soul on the paths, it was only birds that accompanied us.

Our last stop before heading back to Hôtel Le Cep was for a taste of what the region is so well known for. We found the most charming spot for an apéro in the village of Meursault and indulged in a glass of Bourgogne.

The following day we decided to bike northwest of Beaune and see what unknown villages and views awaited.

Fearing we wouldn’t find an open restaurant as lunch hour had passed, we stopped at the picturesque village of Savigny-lès-Beaune, home to a château museum, a Romanesque clock tower, and a church dedicated to St. Cassien. At the only open eatery, we savored lunch paired with a heavenly glass of Hautes Côtes de Beaune.

The remainder of the afternoon was spent blissfully biking along the vineyards, stopping to inhale the views and remark on how well nature feeds the soul.

Our last awe-inspiring view was the hill of Corton, set in the middle of four famous wine-growing villages – Ladoix-Serrigny, Aloxe-Corton, Pernand-Vergelesses, and Savigny-lès-Beaune. More to explore next time.

Filled with the sights and tastes of Burgundy, it was time to return to Beaune and board the train to Paris.

Black-Owned Businesses in Paris

Given the state of the world at the moment and the need for every single one of us to take action and support #BlackLivesMatter, I’m sharing over a dozen addresses owned and run by black entrepreneurs in Paris. While they are no different than any of us living our dreams in the French capital, I’d like to highlight these men and women and hope that you will join me in supporting them from afar, or during your next trip to Paris.

Discover the African side of Paris by taking a custom tour with Little Africa. Started by Jacqueline Ngo Mpii, you can also order her Afrique à Paris guide book, here.

Another tour guide worth knowing who also plans events and elopements in Paris is fashionable Yanique Francis at My Parisian Life.

For gorgeous table linens and antiques to buy or rent, look no further than Madame de la Maison founded by Nigerian-born ex-New Yorker Ajiri Aki.

For the BEST mani-pedi and spa treatment in Paris, head straight to Free Persephone in the right bank, where owner Lauren Creecy will greet you with her usual charm.

Find your perfect shade of lipstick thanks to make-up artist Gabrielle Eymard. Her eponymous label offers a range of long-lasting and cruelty-free cosmetics.

For one-of-a-kind contemporary clothing with a feminine flair that’s all made in Paris, discover Caribbean-born designer Kate Mack.

Family-owned boutique Maison Château Rouge offers a colorful collection of African-inspired apparel and accessories for both men and women.

Head over to Mukasa for housewares, clothing, and jewelry hand-crafted by artisans in Mouki Clément’s father’s village in Cameroon.

First founded by Senegalese Alioune Diop in 1947 as a magazine which featured many of the best known Francophone African writers, since 1949 Présence Africaine expanded into a bookstore and publishing house.

As for where to dine on the best African cuisine in Paris, head over to Okay Africa’s Diaspora Eats: 11 of the Best African Restaurants in Paris.

Meanwhile, discover the healing power of food (and a look at real life in Paris) by listening to podcast Dinner for One created by former New Yorker Sutanya.

When Isabelle and Ali left New York City and headed to Paris, they missed getting together with friends on Sunday in SoHo. And that’s how their inviting healthy eats restaurant and café came to life.

For all things wine-related, Tanisha Townsend runs Girl Meets Glass in which she offers wine and food pairing experiences. Tanisha also hosts wine podcast Wine School Dropout and teaches wine courses.

Chocolate lovers take note! Edwin Yansané’s chocolate shops Edwart Chocolatier Paris, located in the Marais and near Place de la Concorde serve up some of the most heavenly and original chocolate in the city. You can also learn to make your own at their Concorde location.

Eager to learn to cook French cuisine? Book a cooking class at family-owned Cook’n With Class Paris. Their second school is in the town of Uzès in Provence.

For any and all information on black life and culture in Paris, including gourmet activities and tours, head over to Entrée to Black Paris.

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