French Riviera Hopping

One of my most beloved parts of France is the Côte d’Azur. This region in the southeast along the Mediterranean coast boasts some of the most charming villages, neighboring the vibrant city of Nice. I recently discovered a few of these hilltop gems in a French Riviera hopping adventure, beginning in Mouans-Sartoux.

I hadn’t previously heard of this old-fashioned village, tucked between Cannes and Grasse and was pleasantly surprised to discover a 16th-century chateau and it’s neighboring modern art museum Espace de l’Art Concret in the former stables. All along the grounds of this castle, unique contemporary art sculptures caught my eye.

The streets of Mouans-Sartoux felt like walking through a living greenhouse, where plants lined the doorways and window sills. Along this walk I discovered gastronomic gem Mon Petit Resto, helmed by stellar chef Franck Cicognola. Next, it was time to head to Grasse.

Fascinated by French fragrances, many of which originate in the town of Grasse, I was eager to discover exactly how these perfumes are created, beginning with their floral compositions. This curiosity led me to the International Perfume Museum Gardens. Inaugurated in 2010, these three hectares of sprawling gardens act as an open-air botanical conservatory. Here I went on a sensory tour of the first plants used to make perfume in Grasse in the sixteenth century, including wild orange, lavender cassia from the mimosa family, myrtle and pistachio mastic. I also discovered that from the seventeenth century, the three major plants used were jasmine, rose and tuberose.

My fragrant journey continued to the heart of Grasse where I met with artisanal perfumer Jessica Buchanan, the creator of 1000 Flowers. Instantly, I fell in love with several of her bespoke fragrances.

The next stop before creating my own custom fragrance at Galimard, one of France’s first perfume houses dating back to 1747, was to the International Perfume Museum.

Founded in 1989, this museum, the only one of its kind in the world, is well situated in Grasse, the birthplace of luxury perfumes. Organized into sections from antiquity to contemporary periods, I discovered the origins of fragrance and how they evolved throughout the years. I even took a fragrant tour of iconic scents.

The next stop in the French Riviera was to hilltop village Mougins, known for its gastronomy and art de vivre.

Mougins is where Pablo Picasso chose to spend the last twelve years of his life and where he died in 1973.

I encountered Picasso’s works, as well as those of Matisse, Chagall, Cézanne, Dalí, and Warhol to name a few, at the Mougins Museum of Classical Art, an awe-inspiring private collection of ancient art from Greece, Egypt and Rome juxtaposed with modern works, numbering over 1,000 pieces in total.

Both from above where I admired tiled rooftops overlooking lush landscapes, to the gallery-filled streets below, Mougins won my heart. I hope to return in June for Les Etoiles de Mougins, an international festival of gastronomy and lifestyle, in tribute to France’s culinary figure Roger Vergé. Until then I’ll happily dine at Le Clos Saint Basile where chef Matthieu concocts seasonal dishes while his sommelier wife Elien selects the wines.

My next stop was to the home of another great artist, this time a writer. Belles Rives hotel opened in 1929, set in the French Riviera town of Juan-les-Pins, once the private villa of F. Scott Fitzgerald and his wife Zelda.

I even had the good fortune of staying in the room just above where F. Scott and Zelda slept. The views were breathtaking! My custom fragrance which I aptly named Eau d’Azur was ready to be worn as I dressed for dinner at elegant Michelin starred restaurant La Passagère, helmed by Chef Aurélien Véquaud. What a decadent feast, ending with lemon soufflé.

As I sat on the vast terrace overlooking the sea, I thought about the lives of the Fitzgeralds and the wild parties they threw in this exact spot, guests including Rudolph Valentino, Hemingway, Franck Jay Gould, Maurice Chevalier, and Pablo Picasso, and where a green light always shines on the horizon… It was here that F. Scott wrote ‘Tender is the Night’ and gathered inspiration for ‘The Great Gatsby’.

While staying at Belles Rives, I took a walk to the neighboring village of Antibes, famous for its rampart walls. Here Picasso once again took the spotlight at the Picasso Museum, originally the Grimaldi Castle.

Wandering through the colorful alleys of the old town of Antibes, full of cafes and local artisans around every pastel corner, I became even more deeply enamored with this region of France.

Saint-Rémy-de-Provence

A few weeks ago I returned to Provence for an experience in wellness. This time home was luxury lodging Le Saint-Remy in the heart of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. The purpose of this trip, other than discovering this charm-ridden historic village where the sun shines year-round, was to try the five-star hotel’s new detox program. With no coffee or rosé wine on the menu, this might prove a challenge.

After settling into my spacious, well-appointed room with a view of the sunlit terrace, the detox program began.

Following a healthy but decadent lunch, I lounged by the pool, waiting for my consultation with a Professor of Chinese Medicine. What makes the spa at Le Saint Remy so unique is the focus on Tui Na, one of the oldest massage techniques in the world. The focus is not merely on relaxation but on an increase in energy and overall well-being.

Feeling rejuvenated after my Tui Na massage, a meditation and a lesson in Qi Gong, a gentle 3,000-year-old exercise that stretches the body and increases blood circulation, I set out to explore the village of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. The weekly market also captured my attention.

The streets were lined with pastel colored cafes, boutiques and art galleries, setting a perfect Provençal scene.

Close to the captivating landscapes of the Massif des Alpilles mountain range, an eclectic bike tour was on the agenda. What a scenic and not too strenuous ride along the winding paths! My reward was a stunning view of the village of Les Baux-de-Provence in the distance.

After three days of healthy gourmet dining, daily Tui Na massages, invigorating activities and only a sip of rosé (it’s Provence after all) I returned home filled with vitality. Thankfully, I could continue Tui Na in Paris.

La Mirande in Avignon

Not yet ready to head back to Paris after so many magical days cruising the Rhone River, I reserved the most breathtaking address in Avignon of a last night of luxury. We arrived to hotel La Mirande in the heart of this historic city and immediately fell in love with this palatial address.

Upon opening the curtains in our room, we discovered the most stunning view of the Popes’ Palace. This medieval Gothic fortress and palace was the seat of Western Christianity in the 14th century.

We quickly made ourselves at home in the outdoor patio, led by the hotel’s mascot, a cat named Mirande.

This 5-star hotel revealed even more magnificence within the refurbished quarters of this private home dating back to the 14th century, where cardinals once took residence.

Paying respect to the unique 18th and 19th-century design elements, Hotel La Mirande was brought back to life.

The breakfast room appeared as though from a fairy tale. But it was dinner that transported us to another era.

Little did we know what awaited us at Guest Table, a 4-course dinner prepared by Chef Séverine Sagnet.

Beginning with an apéritif in La Mirande’s wine cellar, we made a toast with guests from around the world.

A communal wooden table for thirteen was set in the family kitchen, a wood-burning stove ready to cook our farm to table meal as we feasted on the first course. Memories were shared and friendships made during this extraordinary dining experience. Next time I plan to dine at their one Michelin star restaurant helmed by Chef Florent Pietravalle, as well as book the cooking class and learn a few culinary tricks.

While staying at La Mirande, we spent the day visiting neighboring Popes’ Palace and legendary Pont d’Avignon.

There was no better place to call home on our last days of such an epic trip from Lyon to the South of France.

Lyon to Avignon

How better to discover Provence than via river cruise with Viking? This year for my mom’s birthday, I planned this special trip to a region of France she had not yet visited but often dreamed about. Undoubtedly she would fall in love with the charm of the south during this week-long journey along the Rhône, beginning in Lyon. Not to mention the long, leisurely dinners, terrace views and courses in local culture at every port. Having traveled to Portugal with Viking last winter, I knew she was in for a treat!

Our Viking voyage began in mid-June, perfectly timed for the lavender fields, in bloom only three weeks a year. But first, Lyon, France’s third-largest city and the grandest cultural mecca outside of Paris.

Strolling through Old Lyon, we admired the Renaissance architecture, noted the top restaurants, Lyon being the gastronomic capital of France after all, and took shortcuts through the connecting passages called traboules.

Our Viking guide even took us to the top of Fourvière Hill where the Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière stood.

Lyon situated not far from Beaujolais Wine Country, Mom and I decided to indulge in a tasting. We arrived to family-run Château de Nervers, charmed by the restored castle they call home, and sipped an array of wines, favoring a bottle of 2013 Brouilly.

It was time now to set sail, our next stop Vienne, one of the oldest cities in France. Founded by the Romans thanks to Julius Caesar, and once serving as Rome’s major wine port, the city remained rich in Roman monuments. The temple of Augustus & Livia, built around 20-10 BC and dedicated to Emperor Augustus, stood proudly in the old square as if transported directly from Rome.

The following day found us facing the impressive 16th-century Château de Tournon in Tournon-sur-Rhône.

It was here that we truly stepped back into history when we boarded the Tournon Steam Train which carried us on a ride through the scenic landscapes of the Ardeche. The locomotive chugged along the tracks revealing stunning views of the Doux gorges. What a wild ride!

One of the most sleepy towns we encountered along the way was 5th century Viviers. Taking a guided night tour through the cobbled streets and buildings dating back to the Middle Ages proved an awe-inspiring and mystical experience.

The next stop in Provence was the history-laden pastel-hued city of Arles, often called “Little Rome of Gaul”.

Their ancient amphitheater seating as many as 20,000 spectators is still in use for events including bullfights.

Vincent Van Gogh settled in this artist’s haven for a just over a year after leaving Paris. We stopped to admire the cafe famous for his Café Terrace at Night painting from 1888. In a hotel just next door, Picasso was often a guest.

Not far away from Arles sits the hilltop village of Les Baux-de-Provence. I had already become smitten with it on a previous visit and wanted my mom to experience its unique charm. We also stopped by Carrières de Lumières for the most stunning light show in a former quarry featuring Van Gogh. Magical!

It was now time to inhale the sweet scent of lavender on our full-day trip to these freshly blooming fields.

From the Lavender Museum to a working lavender farm, we learned all about the differences between lavender and lavandin, the many uses of both, and how lavender is harvested to produce essential oil. Our dreams would remain lavender scented for months to come!

Along the route, we stopped at the tiny village of Monieux for lunch at the only restaurant in town. Could this week-long journey have been any more breathtaking? Both mom and I were filled with memories to last a lifetime.

Our last stop was to Avignon where we would stay for another night at a very special address to explore the city.

Basque Inspired

Forever drawn to the sun and sea, my latest handbag collection takes its inspiration from a recent trip to Biarritz and Saint Jean de Luz. This colorful collection crosses the border from the Basque region of France into Spain. Photographed in the Luxembourg Gardens by Catherine O’Hara, here’s a look at the Basque Collection.

What better to compliment Kasia Dietz handbags than the latest collection by local designer Koshka Mashka.

Each limited edition bag turns inside out to reveal a unique print. As always, made in Paris and worn globally.

Several years ago, my love affair with Basque Country began in the foodie capital of San Sebastian, Spain.

Boasting Frank Gehry’s impressive Guggenheim museum, the city of Bilbao also made a lasting impression.

Weekend in Biarritz

When Victor Hugo visited Biarritz in 1843, he said, “I do not know a place more charming and magnificent. I have only one fear: that it will become fashionable.” Naturally, we decided to head south and discover just how fashionable this town had become.

We arrived by train and settled into our charming hotel Villa Koegui in the heart of Biarritz. From there we began to explore the cafe-lined streets, stopping for tapas and sangria in the French Basque Country in southwestern France. Favorites became Puig & Daro for tasty small plates and local haunt Le Bar Jean which spilled onto the sidewalk every evening for apéro hour. Nearby Market Les Halles proved a welcome spot for local tastes and fresh produce.

The following day my adventurous Italian decided we should head to Saint-Jean-de-Luz by bike. Always up for a challenge, we rented bicycles and began the 10-mile journey.

Our journey began along the ocean and through the quaint village of Bidart, with a lunch stop at Hétéroclito in Guéthary.

As beautiful as the bike ride was (aside from a few steep moments), I was happy to arrive to Saint-Jean-de-Luz.

Set upon a natural harbor in the southeast of the Bay of Biscay, Saint-Jean-de-Luz is a popular beach resort.

After soaking up the sun, we met a friend for coffee in town, beneath the most picture perfect tree-lined cafe.

With one last look at Saint-Jean-de-Luz, we jumped back on the bikes, direction Biarritz, just in time for sunset and a well-deserved glass of wine.

Our last day was spent on one of Biarritz’s beaches, basking in the sun and surf that is so unique to this part of France. Maybe next time we’ll try our luck at surfing.

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