Black-Owned Businesses in Paris

Given the state of the world at the moment and the need for every single one of us to take action and support #BlackLivesMatter, I’m sharing over a dozen addresses owned and run by black entrepreneurs in Paris. While they are no different than any of us living our dreams in the French capital, I’d like to highlight these men and women and hope that you will join me in supporting them from afar, or during your next trip to Paris.

Discover the African side of Paris by taking a custom tour with Little Africa. Started by Jacqueline Ngo Mpii, you can also order her Afrique à Paris guide book, here.

Another tour guide worth knowing who also plans events and elopements in Paris is fashionable Yanique Francis at My Parisian Life.

For gorgeous table linens and antiques to buy or rent, look no further than Madame de la Maison founded by Nigerian-born ex-New Yorker Ajiri Aki.

For the BEST mani-pedi and spa treatment in Paris, head straight to Free Persephone in the right bank, where owner Lauren Creecy will greet you with her usual charm.

Find your perfect shade of lipstick thanks to make-up artist Gabrielle Eymard. Her eponymous label offers a range of long-lasting and cruelty-free cosmetics.

For one-of-a-kind contemporary clothing with a feminine flair that’s all made in Paris, discover Caribbean-born designer Kate Mack.

Family-owned boutique Maison Château Rouge offers a colorful collection of African-inspired apparel and accessories for both men and women.

Head over to Mukasa for housewares, clothing, and jewelry hand-crafted by artisans in Mouki Clément’s father’s village in Cameroon.

First founded by Senegalese Alioune Diop in 1947 as a magazine which featured many of the best known Francophone African writers, since 1949 Présence Africaine expanded into a bookstore and publishing house.

As for where to dine on the best African cuisine in Paris, head over to Okay Africa’s Diaspora Eats: 11 of the Best African Restaurants in Paris.

Meanwhile, discover the healing power of food (and a look at real life in Paris) by listening to podcast Dinner for One created by former New Yorker Sutanya.

When Isabelle and Ali left New York City and headed to Paris, they missed getting together with friends on Sunday in SoHo. And that’s how their inviting healthy eats restaurant and café came to life.

For all things wine-related, Tanisha Townsend runs Girl Meets Glass in which she offers wine and food pairing experiences. Tanisha also hosts wine podcast Wine School Dropout and teaches wine courses.

Chocolate lovers take note! Edwin Yansané’s chocolate shops Edwart Chocolatier Paris, located in the Marais and near Place de la Concorde serve up some of the most heavenly and original chocolate in the city. You can also learn to make your own at their Concorde location.

Eager to learn to cook French cuisine? Book a cooking class at family-owned Cook’n With Class Paris. Their second school is in the town of Uzès in Provence.

For any and all information on black life and culture in Paris, including gourmet activities and tours, head over to Entrée to Black Paris.

The Return to Freedom in Paris

There are few places in the world as captivating as the quays along Paris’s river Seine, especially in the springtime, but any season proves ethereal. At least for this adopted local. Having been off-limits for the past two months due to the pandemic, it’s no wonder so many Parisians flocked to this pedestrian-only kilometers long expanse on our first weekend of deconfinement, or what I call the return to freedom.

While the sun continues to shine brightly as a reminder that summer is just around the corner, what now? Are Parisians behaving responsibly given their privilege of freedom? From what I could tell, spending Saturday afternoon biking along the river and Sunday evening snapping these photos, adults and kids alike are soaking up social contact. Half of those I passed were wearing masks, and almost everyone was respectful of space, remaining in small groups at a safe distance from one another. In other parts of the city, I’m not so sure.

What I hope we all understand, and by all I mean, EVERYONE EVERYWHERE is that just because we are allowed outside and shops are open again, with schools to follow and restaurants soon after, COVID-19 is far from over.

By now we all know someone afflicted with this deadly virus, and none of us are completely safe until a proven vaccine is developed. In order for life to continue safely for all us, please be mindful of each other. Wear a mask, continue to socially distance, and do what you can to help those more vulnerable.

Life will return to normal in time. We’ll all be able to travel beyond our homes, dine with friends at favorite eateries, fly to exotic locales, hug and offer bises freely… and this chapter will feel like a bad dream. But until then, let’s respect the ‘new normal’ and keep ourselves and those around us safe.

Art and History Lessons From Home

Anyone else missing going to museums and learning about art while getting a lesson in history? Well, now you can, and from the comfort of your own home. Join these leading tour companies as they adapt to this unprecedented time during which travel is restricted, and will be for a time to come. Companies including Context Travel, Take Walks, and THATMuse are offering alternative methods of learning, from home! Ready to stimulate your mind by joining classes in history and art led by leading experts in their fields?

Join a historian at Context Travel for Context Conversations, inviting guests into the real life of the people, history, and culture of the world’s greatest cities. Online live learning seminars include ‘The Colosseum and Roman Forum in the Time of the Emperors’ and ‘Tate Modern: What is Art?’ Each live lecture via zoom is 40€.

In Take Walks Tours from Home, join Archaeologist & TV Host Darius Arya as he presents ‘Ancient Rome for All Ages’. This three-part series highlights the foundational myths to the rise of the emperors to Rome’s decline. Other Tours from Home include ‘NYC Met Museum Tour With a Twist’, ‘Journey into St. Mark’s Basilica, the Venetian Gem’ and ‘Descend into the Darkness of Paris’ Catacombs’. Each hour-long tour costs 9€-10€.

Meanwhile, a leader in museum treasure hunts in Paris and London, THATMuse is helping families Play With Art at Home by offering free portrait party kits to help kids learn about art. This skillfully crafted educational kit includes Michelangelo connect-the-dots, French Neo-Classical perspective exercises from David’s Oath of Horatii, and a deciphering a da Vinci exercise. Join the THATMuse blog to keep up to date with all the artful fun!

Scenes of Paris Under Lockdown

It’s hard to describe the feeling of Paris these lockdown days. While the spring sun illuminates the empty streets, windows open wide to let in the promise of impending freedom. During my infrequent walks to pick up essentials in the neighborhood or weekly runs to the river, I share scenes from Paris under lockdown.

The river Seine is uniquely peaceful beneath blue skies without tourist boats or picnickers lining the quays.

Only permitted to exercise in the morning before 10 am or after 7 pm allows for beautiful sunset views.

Curious to visit the Louvre, home to some of the world’s most admired artwork and revered treasure hunts THATMuse, I make my way to this former royal palace.

All alone with the birds flying overhead, I am reminded of a private tour to an empty Louvre with Buly 1803.

Every time I pass the many shuttered cafes lining the streets, I imagined their terraces bustling with life.

Back in the Marais neighborhood, every day in the usually bustling Jewish Quarter looks like a Saturday.

Like all of Paris’s many cultural venues, the recently renovated Picasso Museum patiently awaits better days.

On an early evening walk to the neighboring tenth district, Porte Saint-Martin, one of Paris’s original doors looms grandly, inviting those willing to pass through its historic 14th-century gates.

The calm Canal Saint-Martin invites those out for their daily stroll or run to reflect along its now empty quays.

Every time I head out to buy groceries with my note in hand, I smile at Marianne looming in the distance.

Paris Picks: Paris From Home

We are now well into week three of lockdown life in Paris. The sun is shining brightly and the sky has never looked so blue. At least nature is at peace these surreal days, while we struggle to make sense of current affairs. For more on life in France, head over to HiP Paris where I share thoughts along with fellow ex-pats. Meanwhile, I trust and hope that you are all safe and sane at home. In an attempt to share a little bit of Paris with you until we’re able to travel again, here are my top ways of bringing the City of Light home to you.

What better way to dive into a culture than via the pages of a book? Privileged to know so many talented authors, here’s my selection of inspiring reading material to add to your Paris book or kindle collection.

Paris, My Sweet: A Year in the City of Light (and Dark Chocolate) by Amy Thomas who also wrote Brooklyn in Love: A Delicious Memoir of Food, Family, and Finding Yourself for the New Yorkers

Seven Letters from Paris: A Memoir by Samantha Vérant who just published her latest book The Secret French Recipes of Sophie Valroux

Bonjour Kale: A Memoir of Paris, Love, and Recipes by Kristen Beddard

Je T’Aime, Me Neither by April Lily Heise who also writes blog Je T’Aime, Me Neither

The Sweet Life in Paris: Delicious Adventures in the World’s Most Glorious – and Perplexing – City by David Lebovitz whose brand new book Drinking French: The Iconic Cocktails, Apéritifs, and Café Traditions of France, with 160 Recipes just launched

Paris Dreaming by Katrina Lawrence who shares more love for Paris on her site Paris For Dreamers

Don’t Be a Tourist in Paris: The Messy Nessy Chic Guide by Vanessa Grall who also wrote Don’t be a Tourist in New York: The Messy Nessy Chic Guide

When in French: Love in a Second Language by Lauren Collins

The Paris Journal by Nicole and Evan Robertson whose stunning literary art you can find at Obvious State

The New Paris by Lindsay Tramuta whose new book The New Parisienne: The Women & Ideas Shaping Paris you can now pre-order

The Seine: The River that Made Paris is Elaine Sciolino‘s latest book

Notre Dame de Paris: A Celebration of the Cathedral by Kathy Borrus

Paris in Stride: An Insider’s Walking Guide by Jessie Kanelos Weiner who also wrote New York By Foot

Paris On Air by Oliver Gee who runs podcast The Earful Tower all about life in Paris

Since most of us are at remaining safely at home these days, add a touch of Paris to your interiors by accessorizing. Square Modern is a favorite Parisian pillow brand that adds just the right pop of color. I myself decorate with these custom cushions, each made in Paris of designer remnant fabrics. Read more about founder Suzanne Flenard, here. As for your walls, leave it to photographer Rebecca Plotnick who has an impeccable eye for Paris.

In case you need help setting your table, whether it’s for one, two, four or more, Laura Calder is your gal. Her latest book The Inviting Life: An Inspirational Guide to Homemaking, Hosting and Opening the Door to Happiness teaches you everything you need to know about nesting in style.

In terms of dressing yourself, local designer Mari of Koshka Mashka is shipping orders directly from her Parisian atelier. Doing her part to keep us all safe, she’s including complimentary face masks with every order. If you’re in Paris contact her and she’ll happily give you a mask.

While we are nourishing our minds by reading and our homes by decorating and dining, let’s not forget our bodies. The founder of Broadway in Paris, Michael Pereira is now offering a dance class via Facebook Live every day at 5 pm Paris time. Ready for a little ballet or Broadway jazz? Read more about this inspiring dance professional, here. If you prefer an intense cardio class, head over to Instagram where you’ll find Paris-based fitness experts @StephNieman, @CaliforniaBarre, and @jujuontherOcks, each teaching classes in English.

Lastly, what better time to start those French classes? Babbel is currently running a promotion and offering three free months of lessons for all students. Bon courage!

Paris in the Time of Corona

The Coronavirus pandemic often doesn’t feel real. It’s as though the entire world is living a nightmare from which we can’t wake up. With each day the deadly threat of this virus is spreading throughout villages, towns, and cities from Europe to the Americas to Oceania. No one is left unaffected. Here in Paris, today marks the first day of social distancing, with all cafés, restaurants, bars, shops and social clubs, closed. Schools, universities and daycare centers too, are closed. Is this the severity of the measures that will be taken? I don’t suspect so.

My Italian and I are taking every precaution to stay safe, as his family has been doing while on lockdown in Liguria. The fear is this silent enemy attacks unknowingly. As everyone is aware by now, the virus lives on surfaces and can take weeks for symptoms to appear. My fear is that the young and virile in Paris are not taking this very seriously. This was evident today as we took a walk from the Louvre to the Seine.

While many remained solo or in isolated couples like us, others congregated in groups, kids playing nearby.

My guess is that the same way citizens in Italy and now Spain are placed in lockdown, France is next.

Tuileries Gardens are already closed, as are museums and other cultural institutions. The gravity is mounting.

Wherever you are in the world, please take every precaution. Don’t merely wash your hands, but isolate yourselves as much as possible while COVID-19 continues to spread. We are all fighting this invisible battle.

In the meantime, work from home if you can. And to keep yourself stimulated, pick up those books you were meaning to read, take up a new indoor hobby, call friends who live a timezone away, learn a language, take up a meditation practice, play with your kids, discover a new passion… Dedicate this time to yourself. I for one plan to improve my Italian language skills and learn new recipes, in between writing assignments of course.

Thinking of you all and sending virtual (non-contagious) hugs! Feel free to reach out anytime, and do make plans to visit Paris once this is all over. Remember that this too shall pass.

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