Paris Picks : Vegetarian Restos

Could veggie burgers with sweet potato fries become the new steak frites? In recent years, vegetarian restaurants have been sprouting up all over the French capital. While most farm to table restaurants offer vegetarian plates, seasonal vegetables decorating the plats du jour in ample measure, these eateries are havens for veggie lovers. Many even provide a hearty selection of vegan and gluten-free options. For more gluten-free options in Paris, head over to blog Baci di Dama.

Founded in 2007 by chef Christel Dhuit and later expanded in 2009, Soya Cantine Bio is a vegetarian haven just steps away from Canal Saint Martin in Paris’s 11th arrondissement. With lunch and dinner combining organic seasonal produce – couscous dishes and endless vegetable plates including homemade garam masala among the options, even vegans will be well fed. As for the sweet side, all pastries are gluten-free.

Soya // 20 Rue de la Pierre Levée, 75011 // Sunday 11:30-4pm, Tuesday 7-11pm, Wed-Friday 12-4pm, 7-11pm, Saturday 11:30-4pm, 7-11pm

Lula Cantine Bio & Veggie evolved of the love of healthy organic eating by Colombian born sisters Luciana and Natalia. Since 2014, they share their seasonal and creative vegetarian recipes, many inspired by their South American roots, with passion added to every plate. It’s difficult to choose between Fajitas and the chock-full of veggies Lula Bowl. Sunday Brunch is 100% vegan and gluten-free and full of decadent albeit healthy surprises.

Lula Cantine Bio & Veggie // 216 Rue Saint-Maur, 75010 // Sunday 11:30-4pm, Monday-Saturday 9-3pm

Passionate about healthy living and gourmet organic cuisine, Agathe opened the first Café PINSON in the North Marais in 2013. Designed by interior superstar Dorothée Meilichzon, it’s hard not to feel at home while sipping your matcha latte. Both a café and restaurant, Café PINSON serves a daily changing menu of 100% organic vegetarian food with plenty of options for vegans and juices galore. You can also find a selection of their goodies at Le Bon Marché.

Café PINSON // 6 Rue du Forez, 75003 // Monday-Friday 9am-10pm, Saturday 10am-10pm, Sunday 10am-6pm

The wild revolution began on Rue Charlot in 2015. Since then, Emma Sawko has continued to expand her health-food endeavor Wild and the Moon, opening outposts on Rue Amelot, in the 9th arrondissement and most recently at Place du Marché Saint-Honoré. The 100% organic, locally sourced menu complete with cold pressed juices is one of Paris’s hotspots for gluten-free and vegan food, from morning to night. Whether you’re in the mood for a turmeric latte or thai curry, these inviting addresses will serve you well.

Wild and the Moon // 19 Place du Marché Saint-Honoré, 75001 // 25 rue des Gravilliers, 75003 // 55 Rue Charlot, 75003 // 4 Rue du Helder, 75009 // 138 rue Amelot, 75011 // LAFAYETTE ANTICIPATIONS 9 rue du Plâtre, 75004

Named in tribute to their mother and fueled by a love of healthy and sustainable living, brothers David and Adrien opened Le Potager de Charlotte in 2015. Potager meaning vegetable garden, the menu combines organic farmers market produce to create epicurean plant-based cuisine. Their two addresses in the right bank serve seasonal specialties including chickpea and rice pancakes and coconut yogurt. Ask about their heavenly Sunday brunch!

Le Potager de Charlotte // 12 rue de la Tour d’Auvergne 75009 // 21 rue Rennequin 75017 // Wednesday-Saturday 7-10:30pm, Friday-Saturday 12-2:30pm, Sunday 11-3pm

Ten Years in Paris

Ten years ago, I bid farewell to the life I had known for over a decade in New York City, to the friends I knew I would hold on to, to the career I had excelled in, and to the city that had taught me so many invaluable lessons. I dove into a new life with a man I had met only months prior but trusted with all my heart. And so began my journey of love in the City of Lights, and this blog. Today I reflect on these past ten years and what I have learned by choosing to live a soul-centered life.

Most importantly, while I’m a full-fledged romantic who grew up believing that love serves as fuel, it’s up to us to find this love within ourselves. I’m forever grateful and appreciative for the adoration of my Italian, but it is self-love that truly fuels me.

This too applies to happiness. As much as I thrive on traveling and discovering new cultures or reveling in those that are close to my heart (ciao Italia!), happiness is not a place, nor is it a person. Happiness is a choice. And sometimes it’s as simple as watching the sunset over Notre Dame, or anywhere for that matter.

When I first moved to Paris I thought much like a New Yorker. How can I achieve success, how can I become something? Given the difficulty in finding work in my field, every day I would come up with a new business plan. It was when I let go of the ego and allowed my soul to soar that I discovered my path. This is how my namesake handbag business came to life and why I became a writer. I still think like a New Yorker, it’s in my composition, after all, but it’s now about becoming in my own eyes, not in those of anyone else.

Another life lesson that I’ve learned through this decade in Paris is that some people are meant to remain in our lives while others quite simply are not. As a Leo with loyalty in my core, I cherish the friendships that have grown with me through the years, both in Paris and around the world, and let go of those that haven’t.

Perhaps one of the most important lessons that I’m still learning is that of acceptance. While I may never understand the way Parisians think, or how and why they behave the way they do, which also applies when immersed in other cultures, the key is to accept them. We are all different, as my Italian often reminds me.

Lastly, this past decade in Paris has strengthened my notion that we must live by our own rules and remain strong in our intentions. Before I left New York to travel the world in 2007, would I ever have believed that years later I’d be living such a blessed life? Yes. Dreams do come true when we believe in them.

The Paris We Love

When I moved to Paris almost ten years ago, I took a few books as souvenirs from my father’s vast library. As a writer and fellow Francophile, I discovered a Paris guide book published in 1950 titled The Paris We Love. I often refer to this book, a series of 23 vignettes, each written by a different French writer, to discover just how much Paris has or hasn’t changed.

I particularly enjoy the chapter about my Marais neighborhood with a map detailing my frequented streets.

It was after a meeting with Fiona of Storie Shop who calls Montparnasse home, that an idea sprang to mind.

Inspired by this book with an introduction and cover by Jean Cocteau, a Kasia Dietz handbag was created!

This limited-edition Paris tote featuring a hand-painted design, leather handles and two interior pockets is available exclusively at Storie Shop. What better fashionable souvenir for fellow Francophiles?

Life in a Château

This past week I took the train 30 minutes northeast of Paris to visit my friend, photographer Catherine O’Hara, who lives in a château. Yes, you read that correctly. Home is a castle dating back to the 17th century. Ready to join me for a visit of this extraordinary property?

After driving along an impressive tree-lined driveway we entered the gate leading to the château. It was love at first sight. Imagine living at such a stately residence! Catherine and her two adorable dogs do just that.

Catherine, along with Percy and Nora, the royal dogs, took me on a grand tour of the gated 40-acre property.

From the orchards where cherries were ripe for the picking to the gardens where residents are growing their own herbs and vegetables, to the vast woods where logs awaited the winter season.

The inviting swimming pool glistened in the sun, while the tennis court made me wish I had brought my racket.

As we strolled the grounds and the dogs frolicked in utter bliss, Catherine recounted the history of the château. Built around 1630 in the reign of Louis XIII by Sebastian le Hardy, it was Louis XIV’s visit around 1651 from which the name Château de la Trousse most likely originates. He is said to have commented that the chateau was “bien troussé” (“well fitted-out”). The estate fell into disrepair following the French Revolution, and in 1865 the current château was constructed and the gardens were redone. Read more about the history, here.

It wasn’t until 1998 that a Dutch owner acquired the property, renovated the château and gardens and created a number of private apartments. By a stroke of luck, Catherine discovered this castle and made it her home.

I felt such peace and tranquility walking the grounds, imagining the rich and varied tales of lives that once occupied the castle, and the privileged lives of those that moved here more recently.

Catherine took me into the château’s kitchen where time stood still, now only used for residents’ festivities.

She described the enchanting sunsets viewed from the back terrace. I only wish I could have stayed long enough to experience one myself.

The common lounge was reminiscent of centuries past, so regal and ornate. We even had a peek into the chapel where many a mass and celebration took place.

It being tea time, we headed up to Catherine’s royal chambers on the top floor of the château, led by her dogs.

Needless to say, her one-bedroom apartment, outfitted with stunning antiques, was indeed fit for a queen.

We toasted to a life well lived (in a castle no less) as I admired the picture perfect views from her window.

For anyone dreaming of life in a château, good news! Catherine is selling her furnished apartment to move to another space on the property where her dogs can roam more freely. View more photos here and contact her at catherineoharaireland@gmail.com for information or to plan a visit.

Paris Picks : Vintage Shops

Where better to go vintage shopping than in the city that created French luxury brands Chanel, Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent, among many others. While there are second-hand shops scattered around Paris, known as dépôt–vente to the locals, here are a few of my favorites. Get ready for a vintage fashion shopping spree!

La Marelle is tucked into 19th century covered passage Galerie Vivienne. This consignment shop offers quite the selection, from top ready-to-wear labels with shoes and bags to match. Head up the narrow stairwell to the second floor to find a treasure trove of luxury brands including Issey Mikaye, Miu Miu and Lanvin.

La Marelle // 25 Galerie Vivienne 75002 // +33 (0)1 42 60 08 19 // Monday-Friday 10:30-6:30, Saturday 11:30-6:30

Beneath the regal arcades of Palais Royal discover Gabrielle Geppert, dressed to perfection in her signature vintage attire. Gabrielle opened her treasure trove in 2003 and has been collecting and selling clothes, bags, jewelry, shoes, and sunglasses ever since. Here you can find an impressive array of Hermès, Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, and Christian Dior. Next door, discover her own label of “graphic poetic” including clothing, jewelry, and accessories.

Gabrielle Geppert // 32-33 Galerie Montpensier 75001 // +33 (0)1 42 61 53 52 // Monday-Saturday 11-7

Featuring a vast selection of contemporary brands, Chercheminippes has something for everyone. With seven locations all along Rue du Cherche-Midi, you can dress the whole family and decorate your home. There’s even a shop dedicated to children and another exclusively for women’s accessories.

Chercheminippes // 102, 106, 109, 110, 111, 114, 124 rue du Cherche-Midi 75006 // +33 (0)1 45 44 97 96 // Tues-Sat 10:30-5:30

Citizen Concept Store is well stocked with fashions from past to present day, including some of the most luxurious French and international labels. From scarves to shoes to handbags, this Haut Marais boutique will quickly become a favorite vintage shopping destination. Owner Laurent will greet you warmly and offer advice on his well-curated collections.

Citizen Concept Store // 8 rue du Roi Doré 75003 // +33 01 42 78 93 75 // Monday-Sunday 11-7

Discover a rainbow of vintage ware from the 70’s, 80’s and 90’s just steps away from Place de la République in the 10th arrondissement. (Read more about the neighborhood in my article for The Independent.) THANX GOD I’M A V.I.P. opened in 2008 and boasts a 200m2 (over 2,000 square feet) space where both men and women can reinvent themselves in style. They also recently added their own label to the mix.

THANX GOD I’M A V.I.P. // 12 rue de Lancry 75010 // +33 (0)1 42 03 02 09 // Monday-Saturday 2-8

Parc de Sceaux

April in Paris isn’t complete without a picnic beneath the cherry blossoms. Even if that means taking the train (a quick ride on the RER B) just outside of the city to the Parc de Sceaux. This was our first visit to these gardens designed by Versailles’ landscape architect André Le Nôtre. And the hunt for cherry blossoms began! We finally found Bosquet Nord, and our afternoon picnic commenced. Needless to say, we were not alone!

What also draws nature lovers to this park are the elegant gardens leading to a château. It is France, after all.

Only open in the afternoon, this 17th century château owned by Jean-Baptiste Colbert, a prime address in the late 1600s, was nearly destroyed during the revolution. In the 1830s it was rebuilt at the hands of the Duke of Trévise. So what’s to see on the inside? Collections of art, porcelain and furniture recalling years long gone.

Discover the magic of Parc de Sceaux for yourself. Cherry blossoms or not, it’s worth the journey from Paris.

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