Leave it to culinary genius Thierry Marx to create street food, the gourmet and organic version that is. I had the good fortune of meeting this two-Michelin star chef a few years ago during a day discovering his Parisian life, and became an instant fan. Welcome to his latest venture opened just weeks ago, Marxito, a collaboration between Marx and Marseilles designer Ora Ito.
What exactly is Marxito? According to Marx, it’s “two softly puffed buckwheat buns filled with products mainly from plant origin, coming from organic agriculture”. Naturally, I had to try for myself.
These sweet and savory delicacies are all made to order, fusing Brittany (Marx’s hometown) with Japan. Out of the four sandwich options, I chose pink salmon pickle (smoked salmon, avocado, Japanese radish, romaine lettuce, miso sauce and basil), with a side of quinoa salad and Japanese tea. Heavenly!
Not to mention the matcha crepe that followed. Hard to resist, considering Marx’s reputation for desserts.
What takes the cake at Marxito is not only favoring small, local producers but the staff, hired from Thierry Marx’s school, Cuisine Mode d’Emploi(s), which helps the unemployed gain new skills in the culinary world.
Marxito // 1bis Rue Jean Mermoz, 75008 // +33 (0)1 47 20 92 02 // Monday-Friday 8-5:30
As a Paris-based designer who offers fashion tours and writes about fashion, I have the privilege of becoming well acquainted with fellow creators, most of whom possess a passion for designing and producing locally. The made in Paris movement is alive and well! I mentioned some of these designers in my recent Haut Marais feature in the Independent. Here are a few of these artisans that I hope you can discover and become equally enamored with during your next trip to Paris. Let them know I sent you for a truly VIP experience!
One of my favorite Paris designers is Mari of Koshka Mashka. I first discovered her Haut Marais boutique while living around the corner, and quickly fell in love with the brand. Her clothes are timelessly chic and feminine. Born in Armenia and schooled in Italy, Mari is certainly a woman of the world, dressing equally sophisticated women from all corners of the globe. What’s more, her clothing is limited edition and made in Paris.
Koshka Mashka // 36 Rue de Poitou 75003 // +33 (0)9 50 48 85 85 // Monday-Saturday 11-7
Shoes as art, anyone? Artisanal designer Zoe Lee creates sculptural shoes featuring her wood and resin heels and other signature details, using only the best leather. Zoe designs shoes for both comfort and style, each pair produced in limited editions, manufactured in Italy, and only available in Paris, the Haut Marais that is.
Zoe Lee // 19 Rue du Parc Royal 75003 // +33 (0)1 48 87 05 47 // Tuesday-Sunday 12-7
I first met Swedish-born Anika at my local manufacturer and soon after discovered her boutique, one of the first to open up in the Haut Marais. Her sophisticatedly deconstructed separates have become collectors pieces for women from around the world. Anika also specializes in leather pants, both slim and a more casual slouchy fit. And have I mentioned her butter leather skirts? Heavenly! Oh, and she custom tailors to fit.
Anika Skarstrom // 16 Rue du Pont aux Choux 75003 // +33 (0)9 83 82 32 85 // Monday-Friday 11-7, Sat 12-7
Since I met Charlotte several years ago, she moved from the rive droite to the rive gauche, where she continues to create stunning silk print blouses and dresses, along with luxurious cashmere sweaters and a number of unique accessories. Her scarves and neck ties are personal favorites, and if there’s a particular fabric you like, she may very well be able to create something just for you.
Charlotte Bialas // 67 Rue Madame, 75006 // +33 (0)1 57 40 69 10 // Tuesday-Saturday 11-7
Here’s a designer who took a vintage scarf and transformed it into an elegant blouse, a signature piece he is known for. Samy has a style all his own, mixing the old with the new to create unique womenswear. As he once told me, “I take something I know and twist it into something new.” To add to his artisanal allure, Samy still creates samples in his Haut Marais atelier.
Every year during the weekend of European Heritage Days the doors of some of Paris’s most exclusive addresses open to the public. The only question is – Which monumental building to discover? This year we decided to visit the Luxembourg Palace, set in the bucolic Luxembourg Gardens and home to the French Senate.
This princely estate was built at the request of Marie de Medicis, with construction completed in 1630. After becoming home to a number of kings and queens, the palace became a prison. It wasn’t until the 1800s that the Luxumbourg Palace adopted a governmental role. In 1958 it became home to the Senate of the Fifth Republic.
Okay, enough about the history of Luxembourg Palace, ready for a tour of the centuries old interior chambers?
Office of the Vice President of the Senate, shown to the public for its patrimonial relevance. The current offices are are at 26 and 36 rue de Vaugirard.
Once called the Great Gallery, this is now the Library Annex. The first European painting museum was open to the public here from 1750 to 1780, and another museum for contemporary art from 1803 to 1815 and 1818 to 1886. The vaulted ceiling reveals a series of paintings by Jacob Jordaens representing the Twelve Signs of the Zodiac. Here too sits a bronze bust by American sculptor Jo Davidson of Literature Nobel Prize winner Anatole France, who once worked in the library.
The Victor Hugo Lounge owes its name to the bust sculpted by Antonin Mercié in 1889 of illustrious writer and Parliamentarian Victor Hugo who was a senator during the Third Republic.
The Conference Hall, a perfect example of Second Empire style, was designed by Alphonse de Gisors. Here sits a throne where Napoleon I once sat. Depictions of the history of France line the walls, along with eights tapestries from the Gobelins illustrating Ovid’s Metamorphoses. Senators now use this elegant 57 meters long room as a lounge in between meetings.
The Senate Chamber built from 1836 to 1841 is supported by eight stucco columns separated by seven statues of prestigious legislators. The 348 seats are allocated in proportion to the number of members in every political group with each senator having a designated seat.
View of the Luxembourg Gardens from the vast library where senators spend time reading and researching.
The Questeur’s Office where three Questeur’s manage the Senate’s administrative matters and run its budget.
Office of the President of the Senate, and thought to be the study of then First Consul Napoleon Bonaparte.
Monumental stairway by Boffrand featuring a stone balustrade, at the mansion used for offical receptions.
If you find yourself in Paris during European Heritage Days, take a tour for yourself! Now, where to next year…
Ready to go treasure hunting in Paris? I spend many of my weekends at the Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen, just outside of the city. Only open Saturday, Sunday and Monday, it has quickly become a favorite place and where I often lead private tours. Founded in 1885, the largest flea market in the world is composed of a total of 14 markets. Where to begin? Marché Vernaison is the first of the markets, and the most characteristic, if you’re in search of treasures in every form.
At Marché Vernaison you can find that rare item you’ve been searching your whole life for, whatever it may be. Each of the over 300 stalls specializes in anything from tableware to vintage clothing to ancient posters.
What’s more, the Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen offer the ideal place to look for one-of-a-kind souvenirs.
While shopping, stop by the famous (and very kitschy) Chez Louisette where you’ll feast on French specialties to the soundtrack of Edith Piaf melodies, sang live of course. It’s undoubtedly an experience!
Another of my favorite markets is Paul Bert, connected to Serpette and where you can dine at Philippe Starck’s Ma Cocotte, should you opt for a more gourmet meal. The décor alone is worth the visit!
Serpette boasts some of my favorite luxury bags and vintage fashion vendors, Le Monde du Voyage (Allée 5 Stand 15) and Patricia Attwook (Allée 2 Stand 7) respectively. Here too, discover dazzling vintage jewelry including pieces by Chanel and Schiaparelli is presented by famed collector Olwen Forest (Allée 3, stand 5).
One of my most cherished treasures from the Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen is French linen, found at Allée 2 Stand 111 at Paul Bert. Here you can weave in and out of the dozens of stalls, where mid-century modern furniture mingles with modern art. And a well-curated selection of antiques.
What about the other 11 markets at Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen? I’m happy to acquaint you in person. Sign up for a tour with me, here.
Ready to be captivated? If you’re in Paris before November 11th, discover Atelier des Lumières, Paris’s first digital art center featuring 120 video-projectors. The space, a former 19th-century iron foundry in the 11th arrondissement, opened this past April with the show Klimt and Vienna. “We cross over 100 years of Viennese painting through the pictorial work of Gustav Klimt (1862-1918), Egon Schiele (1890-1918) and Friedensreich Hundertwasser (1928-2000) thanks to a breathtaking visual and sound show.”
Here I take you on a little journey to discover these artists like you’ve never seen them before. Personally, I’ve only ever seen something as magical at Carrières de Lumières in Baux-de-Provence while visiting Baumanière.
This is a difficult experience to capture well on film or video, and one that merits a visit. You will thank me!
Welcome to La Felicità, the latest outpost by the Big Mamma group known for bringing some of the best Italian eateries to the French capital since 2015. Included in their expansive line-up are Ober Mamma in Oberkampf, East Mamma in Bastille, Big Love Caffè in the Marais, Pizzeria Populare in Bourse and Mamma Primi in Batignolles. My Italian and I were invited to the grand opening several weeks ago, what a gourmet fête!
Set within 4,500 square meters in a former railway station, La Felicità now reigns as the biggest restaurant in Europe. Its home in Station F, Paris’s hub for innovation and creativity in the 13th arrondissement, has quickly become a destination for entrepreneurs and tourists alike. A fitting location for a fellow start-up. Trains part of the décor, the shabby-chic design itself is worth the visit.
With five kitchens and three bars including a beer garden, plus a food market, there’s plenty to feast on, both inside the impressive space and along the enormous sun-drenched terrace. Some of La Felicità’s specialties include pizza from a wood-burning oven, creamy burrata and plenty of savory pasta dishes, truffles optional. To satisfy every palate from both land and sea, there’s a seafood bar and a USA-inspired burger shack. Don’t leave without trying a spritz cocktail in seasonable flavors including peach, one of the best in Paris.
Italians take the sweet side of life aka la dolce vita, very seriously. La Felicità’s bakery Le Panificio, serves fresh focaccia while their Napolitan-style caffeteria takes pride in their espresso and selection of cakes and cookies. An ice-cream cart serves homemade gelato throughout the day.
Translated to “happiness”, La Felicità’s menu includes much more than food. There’s a full program of events taking place throughout the year, including concerts, outdoor festivals and activities for kids. Let’s not forget weekend brunch featuring live music. Read this and more of my Paris features on Bonjour Paris.
La Felicità // 55 Boulevard Vincent Auriol, 75013 // Mon-Fri 12:15-2:30 // Wed-Fri 6-12 // Sat 12-1am // Sun 12-11
