Check in to these New Paris Hotels

When traveling to Paris, it’s often a question of where to stay. To save you the trouble, here are 12 recently opened 4-star and 5-star hotels, many with stellar views, and one that will make you feel like royalty. In case you’d like even more recommendations, I wrote all about the top new design hotels. And here’s my insider’s guide including dining and shopping. Wherever you choose to lay your head, enjoy your visit to the City of Light!

Cheval Blanc Paris is the first urban address to join the prestigious Cheval Blanc hotel family. Neighboring the newly renovated Samaritaine, this hotspot is located in the heart of the city overlooking the Seine. Read all about this 5-star hotel and dining spot in my features for Conde Nast Traveller UK and Conde Nast Traveler.

Set on a prestigious corner of the Triangle d’Or, the Bvlgari Hotel Paris features 76 rooms, a 25-meter pool, bar and restaurant, and a Parisian courtyard. Designed by Italian architectural firm Antonio Citterio & Patricia Viel, it combines a classic Parisian Haussman-style with a more contemporary façade. And cuisine by superstar Italian chef Niko Romito.

Art Déco-inspired Kimpton St Honoré is the first Paris address for this boutique-hotel brand. Check into one of the 149 bedrooms and enjoy an indoor swimming pool, rooftop cocktail bar Sequoia, and Californian-inspired restaurant, Montecito. Famed designer Charles Zana is behind the 1930’s interiors.

Spend the night in a former 19th-century post office when sleeping at Hôtel Madame Rêve. The sleek space features 82 rooms including 19 suites with Eiffel Tower, Sacre-Coeur, and Notre Dame views. An expansive 1,000 sqm2 rooftop provides panoramic views, while two restaurants offer Mediterranean-style dining and Japanese-influenced cuisine.

5-star address La Demeure Montaigne combines the Parisian spirit and contemporary luxury within its 93 rooms and apartments. Set in an ancient courtyard, restaurant L’Envolée is helmed by Chef Grégory Réjou while the Thalgo spa features an indoor pool.

Sleep in the heart of Saint-Germain when you check in to 5-star Pavillon Faubourg Saint Germain. Every one of the 47 rooms and suites is light and airy, some more modern than others. Dine at the restaurant Les Parisiens followed by the cocktail bar, or dip into the spa where there’s a small plunge pool and treatment rooms.

The first of the Chelly family’s collection of addresses called Les Petits Hôtels was inaugurated steps away from Bastille and Place des Vosges on Boulevard Beaumarchais. Le Petit Beaumarchais invites into 6 bright and contemporary floors featuring 37 rooms imagined by interior designer Charlotte Camus. The spa features a sauna and a double treatment room.

With 28 rooms and 7 spacious suites each offering a unique experience from spirituality to cinema and music, and some overlooking the rooftops of Paris, the refurbished Seven Hotel is located in the heart of the Latin Quarter. The Wellness Chapel offers treatments including sound healing, Gua Sha, Kobido, and body massage.

Discover the bohemian charm of Monsieur Aristide set in the hilly neighborhood of Montmartre. Each of the 25 rooms, some with large terraces and others with duplex suites, are decorated by Paris’s high-end flea markets. This 4-star address is the first eco-conscious hotel from the Monsieur hotel group.

At the heart of the bustling Châtelet/Les Halles district, the Dandy hotel invites into a bobo setting, where bourgeois-boheme décor sets the mood in each of the 36 eclectic rooms. The Parisian-style brasserie includes a terrace for people-watching.

Neighboring the historic flea market Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen, cozy up in Philippe Starck-style at the MOB House. Enjoy minimal deco and maximum entertainment (including treasure hunting in the 14 flea markets). This hotel includes 100 rooms, office space, a 100% organic brasserie by Jérôme Banctel (a two-Michelin-starred chef), a gym, and an outdoor pool. As an added bonus, here are my flea market tips.

I thought I’d also share the hotel that trumps them all, especially if you’d like to play the role of royalty. Airelles Château de Versailles, Le Grand Contrôle is set on the grounds of the Palace of Versailles. Read all about this regal address in my feature for Conde Nast Traveller UK as well as Conde Nast Traveler. This was my suite!

Top Romantic Experiences in Paris

I recently shared an article about top romantic experiences in Paris, for Bonjour Paris. Here are my top choices. Read more of my articles about new hotels and restaurants, local fashion, and life in Paris in Bonjour Paris.

There exist an infinite number of reasons why Paris is considered the City of Love. With its centuries-old architecture reflecting the city’s storied past, intimate café terraces inviting for a café crème and a dose of people watching, and former mansions turned culturally-rich museums, how not to become smitten? A simple stroll along the Seine River, with a stop along one of the 37 bridges connecting the left and right banks to admire the sunset, is enough to feel a pull at your heartstrings. Add a romantic partner and there’s no more dreamy place on earth.

When it comes to intimate experiences in Paris, there are plenty, from perfume workshops to fashion tours to twilight photoshoots (by a couple no less). Each one draws on the city’s unique charm and regardless of the occasion, will be recalled like a living love letter. Here are a few of the most romantic activities to book during your next visit.

Check-in to one of 28 rooms or seven artfully themed suites at the newly refurbished Seven Hotel in the Latin Quarter and escape into the sensual glamour of the 1970s complete with a hot tub on the terrace. In some rooms, the poetic Japanese-inspired décor invites you into a haven of zen. There’s even a suite dedicated to music, outfitted with a piano and a record player. Add a custom couples’ massage in the subterranean Wellness Chapel or from the comfort of your room, and you may never check out. Teaming up with Holissence, indulgent treatments include a Kobido or Marma massage, Gua Sha facial, reiki, yoga and sound healing.

Immerse yourself along with your king or queen into France’s most regal chapter with a private tour of the Palace of Versailles. The opulence of Marie Antoinette’s former home can best be admired by walking through the château, from the dazzling Hall of Mirrors and the ornate State Apartments, while learning all about the palace’s history. The tour continues through the Royal Gardens with their perfectly manicured grounds and thrilling fountains, all the way to the Petit Trianon, the queen’s private residence.

There’s no lack of patisseries in the culinary capital, with scents of buttery croissants wafting through the morning air. All the more reason to learn this refined craft by taking a pastry class at the hands of a master baker. Whether it’s macarons, eclairs, or French tartes that tempt your sweet tooth, baking together and binging on your creations never tasted so good. An added bonus – views of the River Seine will prove the perfect Parisian backdrop.

Where better to learn how to draw or to improve your skills than with a talented artist surrounded by the world’s top collections of sculptures and paintings? Join artist Maja Wisniewska for a private drawing lesson at the Louvre or Rodin Museum where you’ll discover a new side to anatomy. Having studied at the prestigious École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts followed by exhibitions of her work throughout Paris, Wisniewska is an expert when it comes to the human form.

Aspiring wine aficionados can determine exactly what blend of grapes whet their palates while discovering France’s 11 dominant wine regions, sip by sip. Your seasoned sommelier will introduce you to small wine producers while explaining the art of wine pairing. Every wine tasting experience is tailor-made to accommodate small groups and will leave you with a deeper understanding and appreciation for reds, whites, rosés, and bubbles.

L’Arc de Triomphe, Wrapped

Today marks the last day of Christo and Jeanne-Claude‘s latest installation in Paris: L’Arc de Triomphe, Wrapped. For those who didn’t have a chance to see this work in person, I’m sharing images to bring it more to life.

Personally, I found this work both poetic and symbolic. Walking around and through this wrapped Arc, the fabric billows in the wind, creating soft undulating waves. This silver fabric changed color throughout the day.

In an interview with Christo in 2018, he spoke about how as a young artist he lived in a small studio off of the Champs-Élysées, with the Arc as his view. How fitting to end his journey with this installation.

Read more about what Christo shared with me in this article I wrote for Hemispheres Magazine. At the time, I looked forward to our meeting in person. Unfortunately, that never happened due to his passing in 2020.

Walking beneath the Arc de Triomphe allows you to feel its immensity and the challenge of wrapping such a monumental building. A skilled team of mountain climbers worked non-stop over almost 12 weeks.

While this installation certainly proved controversial on the question of What is art? keep in mind that it was completely funded by Christo and Jeanne-Claude through the selling of their artwork. This was their way.

I will miss the presence of Christo and Jeanne-Claude in Paris, but I know their souls will remain in the city, the only place where they chose to present two works. From The Pont Neuf Wrapped to L’Arc de Triomphe, Wrapped.

Domaine de Primard

A visit to Domaine de Primard nestled on the banks of the Eure River just one hour from Paris makes for the ideal hideaway. This recent addition to Les Domaines de Fontenille’s bespoke hotel collection – launched in 2013 by Frederic Biousse and Guillaume Foucher – is one of their most enchanting. Set upon a sprawling 40-hectare country estate, welcome to a slower and more sustainable life. As Biousse and Foucher put it, a “meaningful, convivial and joyful” home away from home.

Wake up to a soundtrack of birdsong in one of 30 artfully decorated rooms or a plush suite. A moment of reflection on your private terrace can set a perfect mood for the day. The ground-floor living spaces invite you to cozy up with a good book or admire the carefully curated artwork. Whimsical details through the vast space including sculptural snails, birds and mushrooms, each playfully paying homage to nature. Multi-starred Chef Éric Frechon in unison with Chef Yann Meinsel respect the fruitful surroundings with their seasonal menus, both at the bistro Octave and the gastronomic restaurant Églantine. Many of the vegetables and herbs omnipresent in the dishes are homegrown and hand-picked. You’ll quickly understand why the creatively refined cuisine at Églantine is “as much for the taste buds as for the eyes.”

A stroll through the gardens with over 250 varieties of blooming roses is a treat for the senses. This fragrant setting created 30 years ago by renowned landscaper Jacques Hertz remains as he left it. Meanwhile, the neighboring greenhouse with its antique knick-knacks and gardening tools is as curious as it is charming. Take note of the hundred-year-old trees while exploring the rest of the bucolic grounds, equally enjoyed by the estate’s horses and cows.

Relaxing takes on many forms at Domaine de Primard. Take your pick from an invigorating spa treatment using all-natural products by Suzanne Kaufmann, a walk in the neighboring woods or a swim in the heated outdoor pool. However you choose to spend your time, you’re invited to end your day by the lakeside guinguette-style bar for an evening aperitif, happily disconnected. There’s no doubt that this new chapter of an 18th-century home once belonging to Catherine Deneuve reads as a harmonious one.

This story about a rural retreat just an hour from Paris was originally published in France Magazine.

La Samaritaine Reopens in Paris

Founded in 1870 by Ernest Cognacq and Louise Jaÿ, la Samaritaine became an iconic Parisian department store in the years that followed. This architectural splendor combing Art Nouveau with Art Deco, closed in 2005, apparently due to safety reasons. Today, 16 years later, La Samaritaine’s doors reopen following a 500 million euro renovation by its new owners LVMH.

Days before its official opening, I was lucky to take a tour of this monumental building located near the Louvre Museum in the heart of Paris.

Following nearly 30 months of renovations which you can read more about in my article for Hemispheres, la Samaritaine will feature a department store, luxe 5-star hotel Cheval Blanc opening on September 7th, 96 social housing units, offices, and a crèche. Let’s not forget 10 dining spots including haute cuisine and light bites.

Considered the smallest department store and the largest concept store, la Samaritaine covers 20,000 square meters. 600 brands will be featured, with 50 of them exclusively French.

What makes a visit to this luxurious shopping center so unique, is that you can stay for hours if not days, enjoying breathtaking views of Paris from within.

The crème de la crème of champagne brands and all natural beauty brands will also be available. Part of the hedonistic escape includes a heavenly spa by Cinq Monde.

Along with the Fondation Louis Vuitton, la Samaritaine is by all accounts one of the largest architectural projects in Europe. Opening hours are daily from 10 am to 8 pm and there’s barely a line to enter if you’re lucky.

The Dream Life of April Pett

The moment I first met April Pett at a local Parisian cafe, I could feel her positive and magnetic energy, expressed through her approachable smile and sparkling eyes. We spoke passionately about Paris and it quickly became obvious that April was living her dream life, offering private guided tours of a city she loves deeply. It’s also her knowledge of Paris’s history, culture, and food that impressed me. April’s relationship with Paris is an intimate and intense one. And I advise anyone traveling to Paris to join April on one of her expert April in Paris tours. You can also follow her adventures on Facebook and Instagram. Meanwhile, how exactly did this Canadian linguist arrive to live her dream life in Paris? This is a story I’ll allow April to tell.

I first came to Paris during my high school career. I remember my first vision of the City of Light as I exited the métro at Place de la Concorde. My eyes grew wider and wider with bedazzlement as the busy city buzzed around me, the water from the Fountains of Seas and Rivers danced throughout the square, the gold atop the Luxor Obelisk shimmered brightly and the almighty Iron Lady stood high into the horizon. Never did I imagine that one day I would move to Paris and begin my life here!

Ever since I was just a child, I developed a knack for languages. My family is Italian, and as a child, much to my dismay, I attended Italian classes every Saturday morning in my hometown of Thorold, Ontario. (All I really wanted was to be like the other kids, watching cartoons with my dolls!) At the age of 9, I began studying French as well and from that moment on, I decided that when I grew up, I wanted to be a translator. I really loved studying languages and when the opportunity presented itself to visit Paris, France, I certainly seized it! In March 2002, I first set foot on Parisian soil and it was certainly love at first sight!

Naturally, I decided to pursue languages at Brock University, where I graduated with a degree in both French and Italian. When I learned about a study abroad program in France, I could barely contain my excitement. My parents, on the other hand, didn’t want to see their “baby” go. It took some convincing but they finally agreed and signed the paperwork. “This girl is going to La France!” I thought, and began daydreaming about all of the cheese and baguettes that I would consume! 

Now one thing that I have learned over the years is that nothing just falls into your lap in France. Endless amounts of paperwork can easily pile up in front of your eyes, and the Visa application for the year abroad seemed quite tedious. That’s when my Nonna suggested that I obtain my Italian passport, this way I would be part of the EU, and then I could spend as much time as my heart desired in Europe! What a genius plan! After a couple of trips to the Italian Embassy in Toronto, I found myself with a shiny new passport, butterflies in my stomach, and a ticket to Europe!

As it turned out, the Brock University Italian program was also offering a summer study abroad program so when the day came, I boarded the plane with about a dozen other excited students to Italy to learn about Renaissance Art and la vita bella! That summer, I experienced the wonderful Italian culture, learned about the greatest Italian artists and gained 15 kilos from all of the pasta, pizza and gelato. With summer winding down, I l was plump, excited and ready for the next chapter of my adventure! 

After a 19 hour journey of trains, planes and automobiles, I arrived at the Cité Universitaire in Perpignan. I am glad that the rest of the year went more smoothly than that first evening, after clobbering up two flights of stairs with two suitcases and plenty of other bags, only to realize that I was in the wrong residence building! I spent that year, honing my French skills, embracing the delectable French culture and making memories to last a lifetime. Leaving Perpignan was one of the hardest days in my young life, saying au revoir to my friends that had become family, to all of my favorite smelly cheeses, and especially to the country that I had called home for the past 10 months. But something in my heart told me that this wasn’t going to be the very end of my French love affair!

As the years went on, I had the opportunity to visit Paris from time to time and it always left the same feeling of love, romance, and enlightenment within. And in 2014, I decided to take the plunge and make it my home. At that time, I did not know if Paris was going to be my permanent home. And I certainly did not think that I was going to start my own tour company when I stepped foot back onto Parisian soil. In fact, I came to Paris to pursue my translation dream job. I just needed to brush up on my French first. In the meantime, I began working with an American tour company and that’s when it hit me like a ton of bricks…During my university career, I worked in the tourism bureau in my hometown of Thorold, Ontario (which is right next to Niagara Falls!), I traveled the globe, I loved meeting new people and above all, I LOVED introducing guests from all corners of the planet to my adopted home, Paris! It only made sense to start my own company. 

While I had the knowledge of Paris, there were so many aspects of starting a company that I didn’t know. I sat and stared at a blank canvas. I had ideas, great ones at that, but how to put them all together to create an experience that people would love and, how to even find these people?! And that’s when it began. The magic. People from all different walks of my life started to reach out to help with web design, graphic design, social media, introductions to potential business partners and collaborators. The interest, encouragement and willingness to help April in Paris Tours get off the ground was really overwhelming and heartfelt. Today, with thousands of tours under my belt, a wonderful network of business partners and guides, a handful of awards including the Best Tour Company in Paris by the Luxury Tour Guide and Expatriates Magazine as well as the perfect 5-star review rating on TripAdvisor, I truly feel blessed to have followed the path in life that brought me here, to Paris, the City of Light, the City of Love and the city where dreams do come true!

While the past year has been a challenge for the tourism sector worldwide, I have decided to focus on the positive! It has provided opportunities for growth, development, innovation and some R&R. During the pandemic, I have been working on new tour ideas for when it is safe for all to travel again, and once borders open, I will be waiting for tourists from around the globe with open arms! In the meantime, I have launched a Virtual Tour, which is perfect for anyone missing the bistros, baguettes and off the beaten paths of Paris!

Paris Lockdown: Act Three

It’s well over a year into this global pandemic and these lockdown days, it often feels like we’re back where we started, at least here in Paris. Last April I shared scenes of a nearly empty Paris. I also wrote about what Paris is like without tourists for Fodor’s. These days, with the sun shining brightly and the promise of summer in the air, the city is far from empty and this lockdown (our third) is far from strict. Notes are not necessary and masks must be worn. We are free to roam up to 10 kilometers from home until 7 pm curfew beckons us back.

All along the quays, tourist boats lay idle, waiting for their turn to coast along the Seine, filled with eager onlookers hopping on and off to view the sights.

With schools closed in April, many locals have left the city for homes and home-schooling in the countryside.

Parks and gardens fill up with life during the weekends. Alcohol is no longer allowed to be served or drunk outside, attempting to limit the number of people gathering.

Restaurants and cafes remain closed since October, creating outdoor dining and picnics wherever possible. Terraces plan to reopen in mid-May.

With museums closed and now shops too, activities are limited. The French sport of Pétanque is often played in the gardens of the Palais Royal and along the Seine, reminding us of normal pre-pandemic days.

Most of all, simply sitting on a bench and watching the flowers in bloom, reading a book, or speaking with a good friend, is keeping us sane.

It’s impossible to predict how life in Paris will unravel in the months to follow. But I like to believe the city will reopen soon, both for the Parisians and ex-pats proud to call it home and for those who long to return.

Sleeping with the Stars

Lights, Camera, Action! Welcome, Hotel Paradiso, the first cinema hotel to open its doors, inviting cinephiles from around the world to make themselves at home. Having spent the night at this star-studded hotel created by Nathanaël and Elisha Karmitz of mk2, allow me to share the cinematic experience. Photos by Romain Ricard.

Each of the 34 rooms at Hotel Paradiso in Paris’s right bank is minimally outfitted in colorful decor and original artwork, some with balconies, while two spacious suites feature new releases. Artists JR and Christian Boltanski discreetly fill the space both inside and out. Can you spot Charlie Chaplin?

We happily settled into our well-appointed room, which included a bathtub in direct view of the 3-meter wide projection screen. A film while taking a bath, anyone? And yes, sweet and savory snacks including popcorn are part of the treats on offer.

With a careful curation of both classic films and newer releases, what to watch? We scanned the hundreds of films and found more than a few that piqued our interest, settling on two indie films. While Bob’s Juice Bar offers healthy eats well into the night (and a heavenly breakfast), we opted for sushi delivery from a local spot.

For the dedicated cinephiles, Hotel Paradiso includes private screening rooms from which you can watch films of your choice, including new releases from the VIP room directly above the movie theater. There’s also a karaoke room for after hours.

Another unique feature at Hotel Paradiso is their open-air cinema on the rooftop, with spectacular views of Paris far into the distance. For that, and of course, to catch the latest films in their mk2 movie theater, we’ll be back!

The Dream Life of Yelena Yegoryan

Two years ago, the mysterious universe brought me and Yelena together after my good friend living in Yelena’s hometown of Los Angeles overheard her mention that she was moving to Paris. Somehow, she (and the universe) knew that we should meet. Soon after she settled into her new home, we planned a date at the famous left bank haunt Café de Flore, and have been sharing Parisian adventures ever since. Yelena even joined us in the Italian Riveria last summer. This beautiful and soulful woman, a trained violinist who has performed with some of the world’s greatest artists including Lady Gaga, Paul McCartney, Adele, and U2 (just to name a few) is now living her dream life in Paris. As any foreigner who has moved to the City of Light knows well, it’s far from easy, but she is determined! Yelena is creating her own melodic path and sharing her passion for Paris and the gift of music through violin lessons and classical music experiences. I am grateful to join her on this journey.

Throughout my life, I’ve had deep connections with certain things. At the age of 5, I knew I wanted to be a violinist and it became a lifelong adventure in the world of music. Music took me all over the world, I traveled extensively with concerts. I got to perform on the world’s biggest stages including Lincoln Center, Carnegie Hall, and Disney Hall.

I visited Paris first time at the age of 14, I was there with concerts. When I stood under the sparkling Eiffel Tour I knew that this city is special and I felt that magic connection. So indeed years after I came back to Paris and was drawn to it so much that I started coming here more and more often. Each time I arrived here I felt in my element. I loved taking my time and getting intimately acquainted with the city. I learned the language, the culture, its people. And the more I learned the more I fell in love with it.

I loved sharing Paris with friends and all of them would tell me that they never experienced it this way, that seeing Paris through my eyes was so much more personal and special. So some of those friends convinced me to create a website dedicated to Paris one pleasant afternoon while sipping hot chocolate at a beautiful Parisian hotel. They literally made me buy the domain parisinstyle.com. I had no idea back then what I was going to do with it.

But being a disciplined musician I got back to Los Angeles, where I lived at the time and I started creating the website. It was all about Paris and sharing through it my love for this city. And two years after I felt that life was too short not to pursue our dreams, so I decided to move to Paris and make it my home. Everything magically worked out and I arrived in Paris with 2 suitcases and my violin. A new adventure had begun. It wasn’t always easy to start all over from zero in a foreign city, but I knew why I was doing it and it was so worth it! Each time when I look at the shining Eiffel Tower in my window or when I stroll down the historical streets I feel like I’m living a dream. I am so grateful to have found this place that fulfills me in so many ways and that I’m fortunate to call home.

This year I transformed Paris In Style towards music and the power it has because after all, it is through the eyes of a musician that Paris becomes magical for me.

Paris Picks : Romantic Gift Ideas

With Valentine’s Day just around the corner and love in bloom all year long, and I’ve put together a list of gift ideas directly from Paris. Perfect even to treat yourself (#selflove). I’m hoping these romantic gift ideas will bring you a little closer to the city of light and love until you can visit again in person. If you’re lucky enough to be in Paris, head over to flower shop L’Arrosoir to pick up a bouquet, bag, and book!

Chocolate is always a good idea, especially if it’s produced by a local chocolatier, in Paris. Having discovered Edwart Chocolatier when they first open their Marais boutique in 2014, I’ve been a fan of their unique concoctions ever since. Edwart also offers chocolate making classes which I had the sweet pleasure of joining.

How better to profess your love than with a sustainably made bracelet that gives back. Each colorful Let’s Commit bracelets by jewelry brand Courbet comes in 18K recycled gold featuring a laboratory-grown diamond, with 15% of the sale price supporting a foundation of your choice. Now that’s devotion! Read more about the House of Courbet, here.

The ambiance is key to a romantic setting. That’s why I’m sharing fragrant candles from family perfumery Le Jardin Retrouvé, available in three scents, Cuir de Russie, Tubéreuse Trianon, and Rose Trocadéro, these candles come in fine porcelain from Limoges, making them even more decorative, and reusable. Discover Le Jardin Retrouvé’s perfumes, too!

Want to learn how to whip up your own French macarons from the comfort of home? Cooking school La Cuisine Paris now offers online classes including the sweet option of learning to make French macarons. Having tried this class myself, I guarantee you’ll be well guided and have plenty of treats to offer everyone you love.

Ready for a French glow? Beauty brand Aime works both inside and out to leave your skin healthy and glowing. As the founders say, It’s not about being the most beautiful, it’s about being the most healthy you. All of Aime’s skin supplements and beauty products are French-made and their latest perfume oil is heavenly!

From Paris, With Love

With Valentine’s Day just around the corner and everyone in need of a little extra amour, especially these days, I thought I’d create a special gift set, from Paris, with love. What better than a gorgeous bouquet of fresh blooms from 100-year old florist L’Arrosoir along with one of my hand-painted Paris-themed bags and a (signed) book by one of the City of Light’s talented authors. Et voilà! The perfect Valentine’s Day gift!

For those living in Paris, order your bag, bouquet, and book online, choosing between the latest books by local authors (and Rive Droite residents) David Lebovitz, Lindsey Tramuta, Jessie Kanelos Weiner, Krystal Kenney, Lily Heise, and Rebekah Peppler.

You can choose between the Rive Droite and Rive Gauche bags, depending on your favorite side of the city. There’s also the I heart Paris bag or a bag featuring one of Paris’s 20 arrondissements. All bags from this collection are hand-painted and reversible and each one costs €65 instead of €90 with the bouquet and book.

If you’re not in Paris to pick up your gift set, I welcome you to order a bag for your Valentine using 20% off code FromParisWithLove for all Kasia Dietz handbags from now until February 14th. All of the above books, which are a must-read for any Francophile, can be ordered via Amazon. As for the bouquets at L’Arrosoir, for those, you’ll need to come to Paris.

Christmas in Paris

Every year the historic Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann department store puts on a spectacular Christmas display featuring a decorated tree beneath its majestic dome. This year’s theme “A Christmas Journey” takes us around the world through the enchanting window displays depicting far away lands. The Christmas tree tells the story of this expedition, with glittering lanterns and Jules Védrines’ plane flying overhead. It was 1919 when his actual plane landed on the Galeries Lafayette rooftop! Ready to embark on a virtual journey?

Every 30 minutes the dome lights turn off to reveal a spectacular sound and light show. A sight to behold!

The window displays at the Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann store take us to distant imaginative lands, from a fairytale village full of polar bears to a mystical land of Arabian nights. This is the magic of Christmas!

Francophile Gift Guide

With the holidays right around the corner, and forever a need to find that perfect gift for the Francophile in your life, I decided to put together a holiday gift guide dedicated to online fashion, accessories, and home design, all designed in Paris, of course! Ready to shop à la Parisienne? There’s a lengthy book list for the readers, too!

PARISIAN FASHION AND ACCESSORIES

For the fashion lovers, I’ve launched fashion club Paris à la Mode in which you’ll have the chance to (virtually) meet local Parisian designers and feel as though you’re shopping in Paris. Plus, you’ll receive an exclusive discount on their wares and lots of exciting fashion news, straight from the fashion capital! Here are a few of the designers you’ll be meeting. Head over to their sites to find out what holiday promotions they are offering. Clémence Goudard is the founder of handbag label Good People, all handmade in Madagascar. Laurie Terrasse along with her mother Annie are the designers behind clothing and jewelry label Le Dressing de Zankara. My Kasia Dietz handbags you probably know by now. In honor of the holidays, take 30% off with code HOLIDAY30. Mari Samvelyan creates bespoke womenswear label Koshka Paris. Hermine of Douze Paris designs a handmade line of fine jewelry made of recycled gold.

I don’t want to exclude the men from all the fashion fun. Colorfully classic Parisian brand Erotokritos designs for both women and men and is offering 10% off with code KASIA10. Head over to Twins Concept Store for a wide array of clothing and accessories, all made in France. Use code twinsconceptstore for 10% off.

HOME DECOR WITH A PARISIAN FLAIR

If you’re looking to add a touch of Paris to your home, head over to Square Modern where you’ll discover a stunning selection of limited edition mid-century modern pillows. Take 30% off with code HOLIDAY2020. To outfit your home with more mid-century modern treasures, Maison Nordik offers a vast selection of Franco-Danish home decor from vases to armchairs. For porcelain tableware, ceramic artist Alix D. Reynis creates ethereal plates, platters, and bowls, as well as scented candles. To add the final touches to your holiday table, Madame a la Maison offers a swoon-worthy assortment of French linens and vintage tableware. Artist Marin Montagut will add whimsy to any home with his illustrated wall hangings, porcelain plates, and glasses.

TRAVEL TO PARIS BY BOOK

Since borders to Paris remain closed to those outside of Europe, what better way to travel to the French capital than via the pages of a book? Here is a selection that will certainly satisfy your Paris wanderlust.

Cook like a Parisian with Laura Calder‘s selection of French-style cookbooks, while her latest book The Inviting Life: An Inspirational Guide to Homemaking, Hosting and Opening the Door to Happiness will leave you hugging your home

Paris, My Sweet: A Year in the City of Light (and Dark Chocolate) by Amy Thomas who also wrote Brooklyn in Love: A Delicious Memoir of Food, Family, and Finding Yourself for the New Yorkers

Read all about Samantha Vérant’s love story in Seven Letters from Paris: A Memoir and discover her latest book The Secret French Recipes of Sophie Valroux.

You’ll quickly learn how kale was reborn (and regrown) in Paris in Bonjour Kale: A Memoir of Paris, Love, and Recipes by Kristen Beddard

Je T’Aime, Me Neither by April Lily Heise, author of blog Je T’Aime, Me Neither, just published her latest book There’s Only One Paris: Tales From Our Times, all about post-pandemic Paris

Experience life in Paris in The Sweet Life in Paris: Delicious Adventures in the World’s Most Glorious – and Perplexing – City by David Lebovitz whose latest book Drinking French: The Iconic Cocktails, Apéritifs, and Café Traditions of France, with 160 Recipes will keep you mixing cocktails, the Parisian way

Embark on a dreamy escape to Paris in Katrina Lawrence poetic book Paris Dreaming while discovering her dedication to the city of light via her site Paris For Dreamers

The perfect book for those in search of the hidden Paris, Don’t Be a Tourist in Paris: The Messy Nessy Chic Guide by Vanessa Grall, also the author of Don’t be a Tourist in New York: The Messy Nessy Chic Guide

When in French: Love in a Second Language by Lauren Collins just might inspire you to learn the complex French language, and fall in love in the meantime

The Paris Journal is a Parisian tale written by Nicole and Evan Robertson whose witty literary art you can find at Obvious State

Uncover Paris’s hotspots in The New Paris by Lindsey Tramuta who dedicated her most recent book The New Parisienne: The Women & Ideas Shaping Paris to the vrai Parisian woman

The Seine: The River that Made Paris is Elaine Sciolino will take you on a historic journey all along the Seine

Notre Dame de Paris: A Celebration of the Cathedral by Kathy Borrus is a love letter to Notre Dame Cathedral

Paris in Stride: An Insider’s Walking Guide by Jessie Kanelos Weiner who also illustrated New York By Foot will have you walking all over Paris via her colorful illustrations

Paris On Air details the Parisian adventures of Oliver Gee who also runs podcast The Earful Tower all about those he meets in Paris

Paris Picks : Fitness Fix

One of the best ways to stay positive, focused, and healthy, especially these homebound days, is through daily or weekly exercise. Given the temporary closure of yoga studios and fitness centers in Paris, many instructors have taken to offering their courses online. The silver lining, as I mentioned in this Fodor’s article about Paris during the pandemic, is that we are better able to connect globally. Here are my top recommendations for barre, yoga, fitness, and dance classes available online and taught by some of Paris’s best instructors. You’ll (almost) feel like you’re exercising in the city of light.

San Diego born Sophia Willoughby Jeremiasz brought the sunshine with her when she founded California Barre in Paris in 2015. As Sophia admits, “It was love at first “tuck” thanks to the method’s rapid results and low impact exercises.” By combining yoga, Pilates, dance, and fitness, these intense online workouts sculpt, lengthen, and spiritually boost your body. Ready to get in shape, California Barre style?

New York dance professional Michael Pereira arrived in Paris five years ago, bringing Broadway with him. After opening his successful dance studio Broadway in Paris, Michael decided to create an online program. This led to his recent launch of Bonjour Broadway, offering a variety of dance classes, offered both by him and fellow dance professionals. Get your dancing shoes on, Michael’s good energy is contagious! Photo by Jérôme Bessout

Julie Granger is a French ballerina turned barre extraordinaire who recently brought her practice from New York to Paris. In early March, Julie opened The Studio Paris and is now holding classes online. Her signature offerings include Brooklyn Barre, a conditioning class that combines the benefits of ballet, pilates, and cardio. Having tried many of Julie’s classes, I can well understand her popularity around the globe. Photo by Nisian

Fitness guru Stephanie Nieman is the founding trainer of Barry’s Fitness, the first Barry’s to open in Paris. Since Covid-19, she begun offering her intense workouts online by launching Team Steph. Her most recent body sculpting options include dynamic DJ sets which will keep your body flowing. Needless to say, Steph’s classes are a hit (or should I say HIIT) far beyond Paris! Photo by Albin Durand

One of my favorite yoga teachers Marc Holzman, who normally spends half the year (the sunny half) in Paris when not in Los Angeles, has now transitioned to offering his energizing and uplifting classes online. This certified Ayurveda practitioner and Amrit Yoga Nidra teacher will keep you fit through his yoga classes while keeping the mood light. Once travel returns, do yourself a favor and book a yoga retreat with this master!

Christo and Jean-Claude in Paris

With Paris safely back to life following the summer holidays, the city’s art scene is buzzing, from large museums to intimate galleries. One show not to miss that unfortunately many will miss due to travel restrictions is Christo and Jean-Claude Paris! going on at Centre Pompidou until October 19th. A great fan of Christo’s work ever since I walked through his exhibition The Gates in New York’s Central Park in 2005, I had the good fortune to speak with him in an interview last November for this article in Hemispheres. Our meeting in Paris never materialized, unfortunately, as the 85-year-old artist sadly passed away in late May. His and Jean-Claude’s legacy lives on, as you’ll see in these select works from the Pompidou exhibition. To learn more about the life of Christo and Jean-Claude in Paris, here’s an insightful and touching film by the Maysles brothers.


  • Packing Surface, 1958
  • Wrapped Oil Barrels, 1959

As you can tell from these works, Christo wrapped various objects with fabric stiffened with lacquer and tied with string, including the Wrapped Toy Horse, 1963.

  • Package, 1960
  • Wrapped Portrait of Jean-Claude 1963

Earning a living as a portrait painter for high society, Christo first met Jean-Claude while painting her mother.

Christo’s best-known work during his Parisian years was his Packages, created between 1958 and 1964. He played with material and color and never disclosed what was inside the packages.

Christo’s “Store Fronts” series in which he covered the inside of recycled display cases and rebuilt storefronts with paper, confirmed his interest in exploring an architectural dimension in his work. This is what led to his urban projects to follow.

In 1975, Christo and Jean-Claude came up with the idea of wrapping the Pont-Neuf bridge with golden sandstone polyamide fabric. Their goal was to create a temporary work in direct contact with reality. They wanted to create interaction among those who walked along the bridge. It wasn’t until 1985 that their dream was realized.

As Christo shared with me during our conversation, Paris was the only city in which he had planned on creating two major installations. His second being the wrapping of the Arc de Triomphe in a silver-blue fabric, which will now take place in Fall 2021. I have no doubt that Christo and Jean-Claude will be there in spirit.

Travel by Bag

While I love to design bags, clutches, and purses, more recently I created something a little different, a combination of my sashes and purses. This hands-free bag, or what I consider a more chic version of the fanny pack, is essentially a sash or a belt, worn by both men and women. As with all of my collections the Kasia Dietz city sashes are limited edition, inspired by travel and made in Paris. What’s more, these stylish sash bags available in one or two pocket versions are reversible! All photos by the talented Catherine O’Hara.

Each sash bag is inspired by a city as these sashes are perfect for running around, or even simply just running.

I remember the days when money belts were used for traveling. These sashes worn around the waist/hips or across the body safely hold money, smartphones, passports… the ideal unisex travel accessory! Travel by bag to Paris, London, New York or Tokyo, take your pick!

I hope you enjoy these sash bags as much as I loved creating them! Stay tuned for more in the months ahead.

Black-Owned Businesses in Paris

Given the state of the world at the moment and the need for every single one of us to take action and support #BlackLivesMatter, I’m sharing over a dozen addresses owned and run by black entrepreneurs in Paris. While they are no different than any of us living our dreams in the French capital, I’d like to highlight these men and women and hope that you will join me in supporting them from afar, or during your next trip to Paris.

Discover the African side of Paris by taking a custom tour with Little Africa. Started by Jacqueline Ngo Mpii, you can also order her Afrique à Paris guide book, here.

Another tour guide worth knowing who also plans events and elopements in Paris is fashionable Yanique Francis at My Parisian Life.

For gorgeous table linens and antiques to buy or rent, look no further than Madame de la Maison founded by Nigerian-born ex-New Yorker Ajiri Aki.

For the BEST mani-pedi and spa treatment in Paris, head straight to Free Persephone in the right bank, where owner Lauren Creecy will greet you with her usual charm.

Find your perfect shade of lipstick thanks to make-up artist Gabrielle Eymard. Her eponymous label offers a range of long-lasting and cruelty-free cosmetics.

For one-of-a-kind contemporary clothing with a feminine flair that’s all made in Paris, discover Caribbean-born designer Kate Mack.

Family-owned boutique Maison Château Rouge offers a colorful collection of African-inspired apparel and accessories for both men and women.

Head over to Mukasa for housewares, clothing, and jewelry hand-crafted by artisans in Mouki Clément’s father’s village in Cameroon.

First founded by Senegalese Alioune Diop in 1947 as a magazine which featured many of the best known Francophone African writers, since 1949 Présence Africaine expanded into a bookstore and publishing house.

As for where to dine on the best African cuisine in Paris, head over to Okay Africa’s Diaspora Eats: 11 of the Best African Restaurants in Paris.

Meanwhile, discover the healing power of food (and a look at real life in Paris) by listening to podcast Dinner for One created by former New Yorker Sutanya.

When Isabelle and Ali left New York City and headed to Paris, they missed getting together with friends on Sunday in SoHo. And that’s how their inviting healthy eats restaurant and café came to life.

For all things wine-related, Tanisha Townsend runs Girl Meets Glass in which she offers wine and food pairing experiences. Tanisha also hosts wine podcast Wine School Dropout and teaches wine courses.

Chocolate lovers take note! Edwin Yansané’s chocolate shops Edwart Chocolatier Paris, located in the Marais and near Place de la Concorde serve up some of the most heavenly and original chocolate in the city. You can also learn to make your own at their Concorde location.

Eager to learn to cook French cuisine? Book a cooking class at family-owned Cook’n With Class Paris. Their second school is in the town of Uzès in Provence.

For any and all information on black life and culture in Paris, including gourmet activities and tours, head over to Entrée to Black Paris.

The Return to Freedom in Paris

There are few places in the world as captivating as the quays along Paris’s river Seine, especially in the springtime, but any season proves ethereal. At least for this adopted local. Having been off-limits for the past two months due to the pandemic, it’s no wonder so many Parisians flocked to this pedestrian-only kilometers long expanse on our first weekend of deconfinement, or what I call the return to freedom.

While the sun continues to shine brightly as a reminder that summer is just around the corner, what now? Are Parisians behaving responsibly given their privilege of freedom? From what I could tell, spending Saturday afternoon biking along the river and Sunday evening snapping these photos, adults and kids alike are soaking up social contact. Half of those I passed were wearing masks, and almost everyone was respectful of space, remaining in small groups at a safe distance from one another. In other parts of the city, I’m not so sure.

What I hope we all understand, and by all I mean, EVERYONE EVERYWHERE is that just because we are allowed outside and shops are open again, with schools to follow and restaurants soon after, COVID-19 is far from over.

By now we all know someone afflicted with this deadly virus, and none of us are completely safe until a proven vaccine is developed. In order for life to continue safely for all us, please be mindful of each other. Wear a mask, continue to socially distance, and do what you can to help those more vulnerable.

Life will return to normal in time. We’ll all be able to travel beyond our homes, dine with friends at favorite eateries, fly to exotic locales, hug and offer bises freely… and this chapter will feel like a bad dream. But until then, let’s respect the ‘new normal’ and keep ourselves and those around us safe.

Art and History Lessons From Home

Anyone else missing going to museums and learning about art while getting a lesson in history? Well, now you can, and from the comfort of your own home. Join these leading tour companies as they adapt to this unprecedented time during which travel is restricted, and will be for a time to come. Companies including Context Travel, Take Walks, and THATMuse are offering alternative methods of learning, from home! Ready to stimulate your mind by joining classes in history and art led by leading experts in their fields?

Join a historian at Context Travel for Context Conversations, inviting guests into the real life of the people, history, and culture of the world’s greatest cities. Online live learning seminars include ‘The Colosseum and Roman Forum in the Time of the Emperors’ and ‘Tate Modern: What is Art?’ Each live lecture via zoom is 40€.

In Take Walks Tours from Home, join Archaeologist & TV Host Darius Arya as he presents ‘Ancient Rome for All Ages’. This three-part series highlights the foundational myths to the rise of the emperors to Rome’s decline. Other Tours from Home include ‘NYC Met Museum Tour With a Twist’, ‘Journey into St. Mark’s Basilica, the Venetian Gem’ and ‘Descend into the Darkness of Paris’ Catacombs’. Each hour-long tour costs 9€-10€.

Meanwhile, a leader in museum treasure hunts in Paris and London, THATMuse is helping families Play With Art at Home by offering free portrait party kits to help kids learn about art. This skillfully crafted educational kit includes Michelangelo connect-the-dots, French Neo-Classical perspective exercises from David’s Oath of Horatii, and a deciphering a da Vinci exercise. Join the THATMuse blog to keep up to date with all the artful fun!

Scenes of Paris Under Lockdown

It’s hard to describe the feeling of Paris these lockdown days. While the spring sun illuminates the empty streets, windows open wide to let in the promise of impending freedom. During my infrequent walks to pick up essentials in the neighborhood or weekly runs to the river, I share scenes from Paris under lockdown.

The river Seine is uniquely peaceful beneath blue skies without tourist boats or picnickers lining the quays.

Only permitted to exercise in the morning before 10 am or after 7 pm allows for beautiful sunset views.

Curious to visit the Louvre, home to some of the world’s most admired artwork and revered treasure hunts THATMuse, I make my way to this former royal palace.

All alone with the birds flying overhead, I am reminded of a private tour to an empty Louvre with Buly 1803.

Every time I pass the many shuttered cafes lining the streets, I imagined their terraces bustling with life.

Back in the Marais neighborhood, every day in the usually bustling Jewish Quarter looks like a Saturday.

Like all of Paris’s many cultural venues, the recently renovated Picasso Museum patiently awaits better days.

On an early evening walk to the neighboring tenth district, Porte Saint-Martin, one of Paris’s original doors looms grandly, inviting those willing to pass through its historic 14th-century gates.

The calm Canal Saint-Martin invites those out for their daily stroll or run to reflect along its now empty quays.

Every time I head out to buy groceries with my note in hand, I smile at Marianne looming in the distance.

Paris Picks: Paris From Home

We are now well into week three of lockdown life in Paris. The sun is shining brightly and the sky has never looked so blue. At least nature is at peace these surreal days, while we struggle to make sense of current affairs. For more on life in France, head over to HiP Paris where I share thoughts along with fellow ex-pats. Meanwhile, I trust and hope that you are all safe and sane at home. In an attempt to share a little bit of Paris with you until we’re able to travel again, here are my top ways of bringing the City of Light home to you.

What better way to dive into a culture than via the pages of a book? Privileged to know so many talented authors, here’s my selection of inspiring reading material to add to your Paris book or kindle collection.

Paris, My Sweet: A Year in the City of Light (and Dark Chocolate) by Amy Thomas who also wrote Brooklyn in Love: A Delicious Memoir of Food, Family, and Finding Yourself for the New Yorkers

Seven Letters from Paris: A Memoir by Samantha Vérant who just published her latest book The Secret French Recipes of Sophie Valroux

Bonjour Kale: A Memoir of Paris, Love, and Recipes by Kristen Beddard

Je T’Aime, Me Neither by April Lily Heise who also writes blog Je T’Aime, Me Neither

The Sweet Life in Paris: Delicious Adventures in the World’s Most Glorious – and Perplexing – City by David Lebovitz whose brand new book Drinking French: The Iconic Cocktails, Apéritifs, and Café Traditions of France, with 160 Recipes just launched

Paris Dreaming by Katrina Lawrence who shares more love for Paris on her site Paris For Dreamers

Don’t Be a Tourist in Paris: The Messy Nessy Chic Guide by Vanessa Grall who also wrote Don’t be a Tourist in New York: The Messy Nessy Chic Guide

When in French: Love in a Second Language by Lauren Collins

The Paris Journal by Nicole and Evan Robertson whose stunning literary art you can find at Obvious State

The New Paris by Lindsay Tramuta whose new book The New Parisienne: The Women & Ideas Shaping Paris you can now pre-order

The Seine: The River that Made Paris is Elaine Sciolino‘s latest book

Notre Dame de Paris: A Celebration of the Cathedral by Kathy Borrus

Paris in Stride: An Insider’s Walking Guide by Jessie Kanelos Weiner who also wrote New York By Foot

Paris On Air by Oliver Gee who runs podcast The Earful Tower all about life in Paris

Since most of us are at remaining safely at home these days, add a touch of Paris to your interiors by accessorizing. Square Modern is a favorite Parisian pillow brand that adds just the right pop of color. I myself decorate with these custom cushions, each made in Paris of designer remnant fabrics. Read more about founder Suzanne Flenard, here. As for your walls, leave it to photographer Rebecca Plotnick who has an impeccable eye for Paris.

In case you need help setting your table, whether it’s for one, two, four or more, Laura Calder is your gal. Her latest book The Inviting Life: An Inspirational Guide to Homemaking, Hosting and Opening the Door to Happiness teaches you everything you need to know about nesting in style.

In terms of dressing yourself, local designer Mari of Koshka Mashka is shipping orders directly from her Parisian atelier. Doing her part to keep us all safe, she’s including complimentary face masks with every order. If you’re in Paris contact her and she’ll happily give you a mask.

While we are nourishing our minds by reading and our homes by decorating and dining, let’s not forget our bodies. The founder of Broadway in Paris, Michael Pereira is now offering a dance class via Facebook Live every day at 5 pm Paris time. Ready for a little ballet or Broadway jazz? Read more about this inspiring dance professional, here. If you prefer an intense cardio class, head over to Instagram where you’ll find Paris-based fitness experts @StephNieman, @CaliforniaBarre, and @jujuontherOcks, each teaching classes in English.

Lastly, what better time to start those French classes? Babbel is currently running a promotion and offering three free months of lessons for all students. Bon courage!

Paris Under Lockdown: Week Two

Today marks two weeks since the French government enforced a mandatory lockdown, limiting our freedom of movement to grocery shopping, doctor or pharmacy visits, 30-minutes of exercise close to home and bakery runs. Long live the French baguette! I’ve only ventured outside on a few occasions thus far, abiding by the #stayhome, or should I say #restcheznous rule. On one of these outings, I captured scenes of an empty Paris.

Never have I seen Place de la République so deserted, while the statue of Marianne continues to stand tall.

In case you’re wondering why bakeries remain open all over France, I recently wrote about why boulangeries are deemed essential, in this cultural feature for BBC Travel.

A walk around the Haut Marais proved that my neighbors were safely at home or when out of doors, abiding by the social distancing rules. The bises greeting so much a part of the French culture, will have to wait.

Without its terraced cafes, strolling locals and tourists, Paris feels even calmer than on a Sunday in August.

While just two weeks ago Parisians were crowding into still open parks and running along the Seine, as I wrote about for Urbansider one week into lockdown, an eerie quiet now fills the empty streets.

Read more about life in Paris under lockdown and how the French are uniting, in my article for Fathom.

Paris in the Time of Corona

The Coronavirus pandemic often doesn’t feel real. It’s as though the entire world is living a nightmare from which we can’t wake up. With each day the deadly threat of this virus is spreading throughout villages, towns, and cities from Europe to the Americas to Oceania. No one is left unaffected. Here in Paris, today marks the first day of social distancing, with all cafés, restaurants, bars, shops and social clubs, closed. Schools, universities and daycare centers too, are closed. Is this the severity of the measures that will be taken? I don’t suspect so.

My Italian and I are taking every precaution to stay safe, as his family has been doing while on lockdown in Liguria. The fear is this silent enemy attacks unknowingly. As everyone is aware by now, the virus lives on surfaces and can take weeks for symptoms to appear. My fear is that the young and virile in Paris are not taking this very seriously. This was evident today as we took a walk from the Louvre to the Seine.

While many remained solo or in isolated couples like us, others congregated in groups, kids playing nearby.

My guess is that the same way citizens in Italy and now Spain are placed in lockdown, France is next.

Tuileries Gardens are already closed, as are museums and other cultural institutions. The gravity is mounting.

Wherever you are in the world, please take every precaution. Don’t merely wash your hands, but isolate yourselves as much as possible while COVID-19 continues to spread. We are all fighting this invisible battle.

In the meantime, work from home if you can. And to keep yourself stimulated, pick up those books you were meaning to read, take up a new indoor hobby, call friends who live a timezone away, learn a language, take up a meditation practice, play with your kids, discover a new passion… Dedicate this time to yourself. I for one plan to improve my Italian language skills and learn new recipes, in between writing assignments of course.

Thinking of you all and sending virtual (non-contagious) hugs! Feel free to reach out anytime, and do make plans to visit Paris once this is all over. Remember that this too shall pass.

A Taste of Japan in Paris

Ready to discover a taste of Japanese culture in the heart of Paris’ Haut Marais? What was once a quincaillerie, or hardware store now houses a newly opened cultural complex. OGATA presents a portal into the food, art, and design of Japan, brought to life by Tokyo-based architect, designer, restaurateur and chef Shinichiro Ogata.

Within OGATA, I was pleased to find a tea shop offering Japanese sweets, a ceremonial tea salon which I’ll certainly be back to try, a gallery featuring carefully curated art from tableware to furniture, a crafts store displaying delicately hand-crafted housewares, an intimate bar, and a gastronomic restaurant. Sake, anyone?

I took a seat at the bar of the second-floor restaurant and prepared to feast on a modern Japanese meal helmed by chef Kazuki Watanabe. Beginning with a bento box, every sweet and savory dish brought me back to memories of dining in Japan. The multi-course meal ended sweetly with matcha blanc-manger.

I knew I’d return for dinner and the traditional Japanese tea ceremony dating back to ninth-century Japan.

For fellow Japanophiles coming to Paris, read more about OGATA in my feature for Bonjour Paris.

The Art of Chocolate

A self-professed chocoholic who rarely says no to dark chocolate, especially if it’s filled with praline, I was thrilled to discover the art of making this decadent sweet treat, first introduced to France in 1615, as a gift to Louis XIII from his Spanish princess. I was eager to learn the tricks of the trade from friend and chocolate connoisseur Lisa Allen of Tarts & Truffles. Lisa’s chocolate-making workshops take place at one of my favorite independent chocolate shops, Edwart Chocolatier near the Louvre.

The workshop began with Lisa teaching us how hazelnut praline is made. With the smell alone, I was in heaven.

The next step on this chocolate journey was to melt the chocolate and prepare it to meet with its praline center.

I must say that while Lisa’s adept hands make ‘tempering’ the chocolate look easy, it’s a process! What resulted from this sweet experience were the most divine truffles, covered in coconut flakes or my personal favorite, topped with almonds. The best part of all was feasting on these homemade creations. We also tasted Edwart’s exquisite array of chocolates in flavors ranging from Corsican lemon to curry. Ask to try their single origins chocolate too, from Venezuela and Papua New Guinea.

If you’re on the market for chocolate in Paris, which you certainly should be, here’s my list of favorite chocolate shops. Or simply contact Lisa and she’ll give you an expert chocolate tour.

Christmas in Paris

If you’re lucky enough to visit Paris this holiday season, there are several not to miss events that I’m sure you’ll enjoy as much as I did. The Christmas tree at Galeries Lafayette outdoes itself every year. It’s a majestic vision from every angle. Head to the 3rd floor for a close-up view from the Glasswalk, a glass platform 9-meters long and 16 meters high! For a bird’s-eye view of Paris, head up to the rooftop of this historic department where you can go ice-skating until December 31st. Read more, here. In case you miss this ice-skating op, discover the largest ice-skating rink in the world is at Le Grand Palais until January 8th!

BHV MARAIS has also put on a holiday show this year, with its first every Alsatian Market serving specialties every day until December 24th. Take a tour with me in the video below and read more about it, here.

To taste some of the best pastries and chocolat chaud in the French capital, make your way to Place Vendôme where Ritz Paris’s pastry chef François Perret (recently named the best in the world) is baking up sweet treats at their Christmas Chalet. Read more about it, here.

For a thrilling night that will leave you dancing and singing your way home, head to Théâtre du Châtelet which just reopened for a spectacular performance of An American in Paris, in English until January 1st. Read more about this musical here, and order your tickets through Theatre in Paris.

Into a Designer’s Atelier

Many of you know I try my best to support local designers and am a big advocate of clothing and accessories that, like my handbags, are ‘Made in Paris’. One of the designers I admire most is Mari of Koshka Mashka. Recently I had the chance to stop by her atelier just outside the city where Mari along with her team, creates and produces limited-edition womenswear collections.

Mari Samvelyan, who created the Koshka Mashka brand over 12 years ago after refining her skills in Italy, is a born designer. She creates from her artist’s soul, which is even more evident when watching her in action. Her inspiration comes from her colorful imagination, from walking around Paris, and in Mari’s words, “from beautiful and high-quality fabrics”, resulting in modern and timeless clothing.

The Koshka Mashka atelier is filled with clothing ready to display in the Haut Marais boutique and rolls of fabric waiting to be turned into an elegant dress, a blouse or maybe even a jumpsuit.

Each garment is handmade by skilled artisans who even create made-to-measure pieces. Now that is luxury!

Mari’s junior designer Caroline is an invaluable asset and often creates the samples for new collections.

Mari is not the only artist in the family. Her father is a painter and shares the atelier with his daughter.

Meet Mari and discover the Koshka Mashka collection at her Haut Marais boutique at 36 rue du Poitou, where you’ll also find her father’s artwork. Or join me on a fashion tour and I’ll introduce you! Meanwhile, discover other ‘Made in Paris’ designers, here.

Notre Dame de Paris

Victor Hugo once said, “Great edifices, like great mountains, are the work of centuries.” This is certainly the case with Notre Dame de Paris. As the world is well aware, this past April flames engulfed our sacred cathedral, threatening to destroy it. As fate would have it, the cathedral stands intact. In tribute to this marvel of Gothic architecture recently celebrating 900-years, Kathy Borrus has just released a book featuring rarely seen photographs and stories from the past to the present day, even including an early map of Paris, with Notre Dame crowning the Île de la Cité.

Notre Dame de Paris: A Celebration of the Cathedral details the history and architecture of this landmark building while bringing to light its collection of priceless artifacts, the treasured Crown of Thorns among them.

“Mankind was never so happily inspired as when it made a cathedral…” -Robert Louis Stevenson

Notre Dame Cathedral from Quai de Montebello

Discover the rich history of Notre Dame, from the coronation of Napoléon Bonaparte to World War II and beyond.

Chimeras (gargoyles) of the Cathedral of Notre Dame de Paris overlooking Paris

Book Notre Dame de Paris also details the legacy of the cathedral, with artists including Henri Matisse and Pablo Picasso depicting Notre Dame in paintings. Cinema too played a role, as Victor Hugo’s classic novel The Hunchback of Notre Dame provoked many a Hollywood film.

West side of the Notre Dame de Paris

Within the pages of this collectors book for anyone with a deep affinity for Paris, I’ll allow you to discover for yourself why Notre Dame Cathedral is often considered an unofficial wonder of the world.

Private Tour of an Empty Louvre

Sometimes life in Paris feels like living a dream. This was the case when I was invited on a private art tour of a closed Louvre Museum. The occasion was to discover the artful inspiration behind eight new limited edition Buly 1803 fragrances, each one created by a leading French perfumer. Ready for this exceptional tour?

Two weeks earlier I met with Victoire de Taillac who in 2014 along with her husband Ramdane Touhami, opened their all-natural fragrance emporium Buly 1803 first in Saint Germain and soon after in the Haut Marais. Read more about the brand in my Luxos feature. Now back to the Louvre tour, starting with “the most feminine woman on earth” Venus de Milo. What does she smell like, you wonder? According to the perfumer inspired by this femme fatale, an exhilarating blend of mandarine, jasmine and amber.

Walking around an empty Louvre was surreal! Joined only by a handful of fellow journalists from around the world, we were led through the stillness of centuries-old chambers by Victoire and our expert guide.

The next stop was to a personal favorite, La Victoire de Samothrace, the Greek goddess symbolizing victory.

The Winged Victory of Samothrace, a Hellenistic marble sculpture of Nike, dates back to the 2nd century BC. I was completely taken by the majesty of this Greek goddess as we shared a moment in quietude. And her scent? A mix of tuberose, magnolia and jasmine with a hint of myrrh.

Our sensory tour continued to La Grande Odalisque, an oil painting by Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres from 1814. As interpreted by the perfumer, her fragrance exudes incense and pink pepper along with musky notes.

Discretely hidden in the corner of the Louvre was painting Conversation in a Park by Thomas Gainsborough. As Victoire explained, this scent exudes notes of peppermint and bergamot along with Ottoman roses.

All of my senses were engaged as the tour continued from one empty room to another, the only other personalities present being those captured in frames upon the walls.

Our last stop was to Nymph with the Scorpion by Lorenzo Bartolini. This sculpture inspired a scent composed of heliotrope and jasmine with a touch of amber and musk.

While a tour of the closed Louvre isn’t available to the public, you can take a treasure hunt with THATMuse to discover many remarkable artworks, and have great fun while you’re at it. Trust me, I’ve been on a few!

Before leaving the Louvre we stopped at the Buly 1803 pop-up shop. Here I was able to sample all eight art inspired scents, along with their first collection of alcohol-free fragrances.

Obsessed with fragrances, my chosen scent was La Victoire de Samothrace. It brought me right back to Greece!

These Louvre inspired perfumes are available now until January 6th. In case you can’t make it to the Louvre Museum for your own sensory tour, these eight perfumes are also on sale at Buly 1803 and online.

Next time you encounter an artwork wherever you are in the world, imagine what it would smell like.

A Perfect Day in the Marais

In my recent collaboration with top travel site Fathom and favorite department store Le BHV Marais, I wrote an itinerary on how to spend a perfect day in the Marais, my beloved neighborhood. I thought it would make a nice gift to those of you visiting Paris, as you too can enjoy this city like a local. So… here you go! Maybe I’ll see you at one of these favorite Marais spots. For the travel buffs, more of my Fathom features, here.

Paris Picks : Vegetarian Restos

Could veggie burgers with sweet potato fries become the new steak frites? In recent years, vegetarian restaurants have been sprouting up all over the French capital. While most farm to table restaurants offer vegetarian plates, seasonal vegetables decorating the plats du jour in ample measure, these eateries are havens for veggie lovers. Many even provide a hearty selection of vegan and gluten-free options. For more gluten-free options in Paris, head over to blog Baci di Dama.

Founded in 2007 by chef Christel Dhuit and later expanded in 2009, Soya Cantine Bio is a vegetarian haven just steps away from Canal Saint Martin in Paris’s 11th arrondissement. With lunch and dinner combining organic seasonal produce – couscous dishes and endless vegetable plates including homemade garam masala among the options, even vegans will be well fed. As for the sweet side, all pastries are gluten-free.

Soya // 20 Rue de la Pierre Levée, 75011 // Sunday 11:30-4pm, Tuesday 7-11pm, Wed-Friday 12-4pm, 7-11pm, Saturday 11:30-4pm, 7-11pm

Lula Cantine Bio & Veggie evolved of the love of healthy organic eating by Colombian born sisters Luciana and Natalia. Since 2014, they share their seasonal and creative vegetarian recipes, many inspired by their South American roots, with passion added to every plate. It’s difficult to choose between Fajitas and the chock-full of veggies Lula Bowl. Sunday Brunch is 100% vegan and gluten-free and full of decadent albeit healthy surprises.

Lula Cantine Bio & Veggie // 216 Rue Saint-Maur, 75010 // Sunday 11:30-4pm, Monday-Saturday 9-3pm

Passionate about healthy living and gourmet organic cuisine, Agathe opened the first Café PINSON in the North Marais in 2013. Designed by interior superstar Dorothée Meilichzon, it’s hard not to feel at home while sipping your matcha latte. Both a café and restaurant, Café PINSON serves a daily changing menu of 100% organic vegetarian food with plenty of options for vegans and juices galore. You can also find a selection of their goodies at Le Bon Marché.

Café PINSON // 6 Rue du Forez, 75003 // Monday-Friday 9am-10pm, Saturday 10am-10pm, Sunday 10am-6pm

The wild revolution began on Rue Charlot in 2015. Since then, Emma Sawko has continued to expand her health-food endeavor Wild and the Moon, opening outposts on Rue Amelot, in the 9th arrondissement and most recently at Place du Marché Saint-Honoré. The 100% organic, locally sourced menu complete with cold pressed juices is one of Paris’s hotspots for gluten-free and vegan food, from morning to night. Whether you’re in the mood for a turmeric latte or thai curry, these inviting addresses will serve you well.

Wild and the Moon // 19 Place du Marché Saint-Honoré, 75001 // 25 rue des Gravilliers, 75003 // 55 Rue Charlot, 75003 // 4 Rue du Helder, 75009 // 138 rue Amelot, 75011 // LAFAYETTE ANTICIPATIONS 9 rue du Plâtre, 75004

Named in tribute to their mother and fueled by a love of healthy and sustainable living, brothers David and Adrien opened Le Potager de Charlotte in 2015. Potager meaning vegetable garden, the menu combines organic farmers market produce to create epicurean plant-based cuisine. Their two addresses in the right bank serve seasonal specialties including chickpea and rice pancakes and coconut yogurt. Ask about their heavenly Sunday brunch!

Le Potager de Charlotte // 12 rue de la Tour d’Auvergne 75009 // 21 rue Rennequin 75017 // Wednesday-Saturday 7-10:30pm, Friday-Saturday 12-2:30pm, Sunday 11-3pm

Ten Years in Paris

Ten years ago, I bid farewell to the life I had known for over a decade in New York City, to the friends I knew I would hold on to, to the career I had excelled in, and to the city that had taught me so many invaluable lessons. I dove into a new life with a man I had met only months prior but trusted with all my heart. And so began my journey of love in the City of Lights, and this blog. Today I reflect on these past ten years and what I have learned by choosing to live a soul-centered life.

Most importantly, while I’m a full-fledged romantic who grew up believing that love serves as fuel, it’s up to us to find this love within ourselves. I’m forever grateful and appreciative for the adoration of my Italian, but it is self-love that truly fuels me.

This too applies to happiness. As much as I thrive on traveling and discovering new cultures or reveling in those that are close to my heart (ciao Italia!), happiness is not a place, nor is it a person. Happiness is a choice. And sometimes it’s as simple as watching the sunset over Notre Dame, or anywhere for that matter.

When I first moved to Paris I thought much like a New Yorker. How can I achieve success, how can I become something? Given the difficulty in finding work in my field, every day I would come up with a new business plan. It was when I let go of the ego and allowed my soul to soar that I discovered my path. This is how my namesake handbag business came to life and why I became a writer. I still think like a New Yorker, it’s in my composition, after all, but it’s now about becoming in my own eyes, not in those of anyone else.

Another life lesson that I’ve learned through this decade in Paris is that some people are meant to remain in our lives while others quite simply are not. As a Leo with loyalty in my core, I cherish the friendships that have grown with me through the years, both in Paris and around the world, and let go of those that haven’t.

Perhaps one of the most important lessons that I’m still learning is that of acceptance. While I may never understand the way Parisians think, or how and why they behave the way they do, which also applies when immersed in other cultures, the key is to accept them. We are all different, as my Italian often reminds me.

Lastly, this past decade in Paris has strengthened my notion that we must live by our own rules and remain strong in our intentions. Before I left New York to travel the world in 2007, would I ever have believed that years later I’d be living such a blessed life? Yes. Dreams do come true when we believe in them.

The Paris We Love

When I moved to Paris almost ten years ago, I took a few books as souvenirs from my father’s vast library. As a writer and fellow Francophile, I discovered a Paris guide book published in 1950 titled The Paris We Love. I often refer to this book, a series of 23 vignettes, each written by a different French writer, to discover just how much Paris has or hasn’t changed.

I particularly enjoy the chapter about my Marais neighborhood with a map detailing my frequented streets.

It was after a meeting with Fiona of Storie Shop who calls Montparnasse home, that an idea sprang to mind.

Inspired by this book with an introduction and cover by Jean Cocteau, a Kasia Dietz handbag was created!

This limited-edition Paris tote featuring a hand-painted design, leather handles and two interior pockets is available exclusively at Storie Shop. What better fashionable souvenir for fellow Francophiles?

Life in a Château

This past week I took the train 30 minutes northeast of Paris to visit my friend, photographer Catherine O’Hara, who lives in a château. Yes, you read that correctly. Home is a castle dating back to the 17th century. Ready to join me for a visit of this extraordinary property?

After driving along an impressive tree-lined driveway we entered the gate leading to the château. It was love at first sight. Imagine living at such a stately residence! Catherine and her two adorable dogs do just that.

Catherine, along with Percy and Nora, the royal dogs, took me on a grand tour of the gated 40-acre property.

From the orchards where cherries were ripe for the picking to the gardens where residents are growing their own herbs and vegetables, to the vast woods where logs awaited the winter season.

The inviting swimming pool glistened in the sun, while the tennis court made me wish I had brought my racket.

As we strolled the grounds and the dogs frolicked in utter bliss, Catherine recounted the history of the château. Built around 1630 in the reign of Louis XIII by Sebastian le Hardy, it was Louis XIV’s visit around 1651 from which the name Château de la Trousse most likely originates. He is said to have commented that the chateau was “bien troussé” (“well fitted-out”). The estate fell into disrepair following the French Revolution, and in 1865 the current château was constructed and the gardens were redone. Read more about the history, here.

It wasn’t until 1998 that a Dutch owner acquired the property, renovated the château and gardens and created a number of private apartments. By a stroke of luck, Catherine discovered this castle and made it her home.

I felt such peace and tranquility walking the grounds, imagining the rich and varied tales of lives that once occupied the castle, and the privileged lives of those that moved here more recently.

Catherine took me into the château’s kitchen where time stood still, now only used for residents’ festivities.

She described the enchanting sunsets viewed from the back terrace. I only wish I could have stayed long enough to experience one myself.

The common lounge was reminiscent of centuries past, so regal and ornate. We even had a peek into the chapel where many a mass and celebration took place.

It being tea time, we headed up to Catherine’s royal chambers on the top floor of the château, led by her dogs.

Needless to say, her one-bedroom apartment, outfitted with stunning antiques, was indeed fit for a queen.

We toasted to a life well lived (in a castle no less) as I admired the picture perfect views from her window.

For anyone dreaming of life in a château, good news! Catherine is selling her furnished apartment to move to another space on the property where her dogs can roam more freely. View more photos here and contact her at catherineoharaireland@gmail.com for information or to plan a visit.

Atelier Legeron

What makes Paris so unique, aside from its inimitable charm and the beauty discovered around every cobbled corner, are this fashion capital’s artisanal ateliers. It is behind these doors that creative magic happens if you are lucky enough to open one of them.

I recently had the opportunity to discover one of these venerated ateliers with Secret Journeys Paris. Maison Legeron, dating back to 1727, is one of the last independent workshops of its kind. Bruno Legeron hand-crafts silk flowers and feather details, using the same techniques passed down to him from three generations.

Accompanied by Harriet Welty Rochefort, award-winning author of three books about French culture, I entered the bespoke world of Atelier Legeron. It was Bruno Legeron who greeted us and animatedly spoke about his decades-old clients, Chanel, Dior and Yves Saint Laurent among them. It was Legeron who crafted camellias even before they became a signature of Chanel!

The tour continued to the workshops where skillful artisans were fastidiously sewing feather details for YSL shoes. I even had a chance to try on a luxurious boa and discover variations in feathers and exactly how they are dyed. From there I learned about the silk dying process and got a peek into the rooms where the flowers are cut and composed. What a privilege!

I was left in awe as I explored this history ridden atelier, learning 17th-century techniques from the master craftsman himself. With Bruno Legeron at the helm, it became even more clear why Paris sets the stage for haute couture.

Discover the magic of flowers and feathers at Atelier Legeron by taking your own Secret Journey in Paris.

Paris Picks : Vintage Shops

Where better to go vintage shopping than in the city that created French luxury brands Chanel, Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent, among many others. While there are second-hand shops scattered around Paris, known as dépôt–vente to the locals, here are a few of my favorites. Get ready for a vintage fashion shopping spree!

La Marelle is tucked into 19th century covered passage Galerie Vivienne. This consignment shop offers quite the selection, from top ready-to-wear labels with shoes and bags to match. Head up the narrow stairwell to the second floor to find a treasure trove of luxury brands including Issey Mikaye, Miu Miu and Lanvin.

La Marelle // 25 Galerie Vivienne 75002 // +33 (0)1 42 60 08 19 // Monday-Friday 10:30-6:30, Saturday 11:30-6:30

Beneath the regal arcades of Palais Royal discover Gabrielle Geppert, dressed to perfection in her signature vintage attire. Gabrielle opened her treasure trove in 2003 and has been collecting and selling clothes, bags, jewelry, shoes, and sunglasses ever since. Here you can find an impressive array of Hermès, Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, and Christian Dior. Next door, discover her own label of “graphic poetic” including clothing, jewelry, and accessories.

Gabrielle Geppert // 32-33 Galerie Montpensier 75001 // +33 (0)1 42 61 53 52 // Monday-Saturday 11-7

Featuring a vast selection of contemporary brands, Chercheminippes has something for everyone. With seven locations all along Rue du Cherche-Midi, you can dress the whole family and decorate your home. There’s even a shop dedicated to children and another exclusively for women’s accessories.

Chercheminippes // 102, 106, 109, 110, 111, 114, 124 rue du Cherche-Midi 75006 // +33 (0)1 45 44 97 96 // Tues-Sat 10:30-5:30

Citizen Concept Store is well stocked with fashions from past to present day, including some of the most luxurious French and international labels. From scarves to shoes to handbags, this Haut Marais boutique will quickly become a favorite vintage shopping destination. Owner Laurent will greet you warmly and offer advice on his well-curated collections.

Citizen Concept Store // 8 rue du Roi Doré 75003 // +33 01 42 78 93 75 // Monday-Sunday 11-7

Discover a rainbow of vintage ware from the 70’s, 80’s and 90’s just steps away from Place de la République in the 10th arrondissement. (Read more about the neighborhood in my article for The Independent.) THANX GOD I’M A V.I.P. opened in 2008 and boasts a 200m2 (over 2,000 square feet) space where both men and women can reinvent themselves in style. They also recently added their own label to the mix.

THANX GOD I’M A V.I.P. // 12 rue de Lancry 75010 // +33 (0)1 42 03 02 09 // Monday-Saturday 2-8

Parc de Sceaux

April in Paris isn’t complete without a picnic beneath the cherry blossoms. Even if that means taking the train (a quick ride on the RER B) just outside of the city to the Parc de Sceaux. This was our first visit to these gardens designed by Versailles’ landscape architect André Le Nôtre. And the hunt for cherry blossoms began! We finally found Bosquet Nord, and our afternoon picnic commenced. Needless to say, we were not alone!

What also draws nature lovers to this park are the elegant gardens leading to a château. It is France, after all.

Only open in the afternoon, this 17th century château owned by Jean-Baptiste Colbert, a prime address in the late 1600s, was nearly destroyed during the revolution. In the 1830s it was rebuilt at the hands of the Duke of Trévise. So what’s to see on the inside? Collections of art, porcelain and furniture recalling years long gone.

Discover the magic of Parc de Sceaux for yourself. Cherry blossoms or not, it’s worth the journey from Paris.

The Heart of Paris

How fortunate I am to live within such close proximity to this 12th-century 850-year-old Gothic masterpiece. In tribute to this sacred lady, rightfully the very heart of Paris set on Île de la Cité, badly damaged in yesterday’s fire but remaining miraculously intact, I share a few thoughts and images from the past nine years. Walking through Notre Dame‘s gardens, or catching a glimpse while returning home from dinner on the left bank, always fills me with a feeling of profound peace. Within her welcoming doors, I become entranced by the history, the spirituality, the sense of belonging.

My first Christmas in Paris, she graced us with midnight mass as we sat in the second row, our spirits soaring high amidst a chorus of blessings. Last year we had the good fortune to watch the annual light show on the cathedral’s facade, what a spectacular sight!

Climbing 422 steps to the top of Notre Dame’s towers, I beheld the most stunning views of Paris. Undoubtedly my favorite vantage point in which to inhale the city, along with the gargoyles.

I can’t count the number of long, leisurely picnics spent on Île Saint-Louis, the bells of Notre Dame Cathedral providing our soundtrack as we admired her glowing beneath the late summer sun.

Cherished memories. Our four-year anniversary photo shoot with Chloe Lodge was shared with this sacred lady.

Whenever I catch sight of Notre Dame Cathedral I know exactly where I am, as she represents the heart of Paris.

This view that I have seen and admired countless times, will forever symbolize Paris to me. I know and pray that the heart of the city will continue to beat, as vibrantly as ever.

To donate to the restoration of Notre Dame Cathedral, head over to Friends of Notre Dame or Fondation du Patrimoine.

Treasure Hunt in the Marais

Ready to discover the secrets of the Marais? Treasure hunt master Daisy de Plume is at it again! Running until April 17th, stop by Galerie S at 96b rue Beaubourg to pick up a hunt pack and take to the streets of Paris to discover hidden secrets of this historic neighborhood. If you don’t make it to THATMuse Marais, there are plenty of museums in both Paris and London in which you can hunt to your heart’s content! Head over to THATMuse and take your pick. Meanwhile, here are a few scenes (and tips) from the Marais hunt.

First you’ll encounter the French Alice in Wonderland, who’s also a space invader, for those keeping track.

Discover a hidden ivy-clad alleyway that boasts an old umbrella shop. Take note of that yellow umbrella…

Ready to encounter Paris’s oldest stone house? Who lived here other than famous alchemist Nicolas Flamel.

After many a photo-op (which of course earns you extra points) stop by the Stravinsky Fountain for a little graffiti challenge and a look at Dali. Can you spot him?

The THATMuse Marais hunt ends in a magical garden, one that I didn’t even know existed until I went on this Marais adventure. Thank you again for your treasure hunt magic, Daisy de Plume! Now, it’s your turn…

Paris Picks : Romantic Spots

To visit Paris is to fall in love, with the city, with the object of your affection, and above all, with yourself. Anyone who has ever stepped foot in the City of Lights knows that the French capital will charm you to no end. Simply strolling the cobbled streets of the Right or Left Banks is an experience in indulging the senses.

Beyond each historic café-lined corner another secret awaits to be discovered. While the pleasure lies in uncovering your own Parisian treasures, allow me to share a few of my romantic favorites, on the occasion of Valentine’s Day.

Let’s start with chocolate, everyone’s favorite indulgence, non? While there are many artisanal chocolatiers that merit a tasting, it’s Jacques Genin that wins my heart. Maybe it’s because his chocolat chaud is one of the most decadent in Paris, not to mention his famous Paris-Brest, a light pastry with a creamy praline filling. Regardless, it’s an experience you won’t soon forget. Take a seat at his cozy Haut Marais tea salon and order sweets to your heart’s content. And don’t forget to pick up a box of chocolate on your way out. Find my list of other top chocolatiers to taste, here.

Jacques Genin // 133 Rue de Turenne 75003 // Tuesday-Sunday 11-7 // 01 45 77 29 01

Only in Paris will you find the Museum of Romantic Life, better known as the Musée de la Vie Romantique. Once home to painter Ary Scheffer, this was where Parisian intellectuals would meet, to the tunes of Frédéric Chopin playing the piano. Included in their entourage were George Sand, Franz Liszt, and Charles Dickens. Take a walk through this 1830 hôtel particulier and settle into its enchanting garden for lunch by Rose Bakery.

Musée de la Vie Romantique // 16 Rue Chaptal 75009 // Tuesday-Sunday 10-6

Given the chill of February, where better to spend an afternoon warming up with your loved one than in the heat of a luxurious hammam? Les Cent Ciels is just the place to spoil yourself, and maybe even a date. Revel in a cleansing gommage, where you can soak in the steam for hours, and book a rejuvenating massage for an extra treat. Read about my other favorite hammams here.

Les Cent Ciels // 7 Rue de Nemours 75011 // Hours vary daily // 01 55 28 95 75

Since Paris is also the fashion capital, stop by Galeries Lafayette, one of the most regal department stores in the world. If your heart isn’t into shopping, enjoy the ornate interiors, dating back to the 19th century. These days there’s a 9-meter long glass walkway suspended 16 meters high in mid-air, allowing you an even closer look at the majestic dome. Continue to the top floor for one of the most stunning rooftop views of Paris. Are you in love yet?

Galeries Lafayette // 40 Boulevard Haussmann 75009 // Mon-Sat 9:30-8:30, Sunday 11-8 // 01 42 82 34 56

The capital of love is also the capital of fine dining. Why not dine in a historic monument? Head to the Gare de Lyon, one of Paris’s seven train stations, and rather than booking a ticket (though that’s always enticing), head up the stairs to Le Train Bleu. Originally created for the Exposition Universelle in 1900, each room represents a different region of France, with 41 paintings lining the richly decorated walls. In 1963, it was coined with its current name and has since then become an address frequented by those with a taste for elegance.

Le Train Bleu // Place Louis-Armand 75012 // Monday-Sunday 7:30-10:30 // 01 43 43 09 06

Regardless of where you find yourself on Valentine’s Day, or any day for that matter, take time to inhale what is so deeply Parisian; strolling from the Right Bank to the Left with no clear destination in mind; stopping at a café terrace for a café crème with a side of people watching; picking up a warm baguette as the scents of freshly baked bread waft through the air. More simply, falling in love with each moment as it finds you.

Paris Postcards

The art of letter writing may, unfortunately, have ended with the ease of sending emails, but postcards will always be an intimate way to share a faraway journey with those dear to us. I even sent my mom one postcard from every destination I visited during my around-the-world trip of 32 countries, and continue to send them whenever we travel. Equally, I’m always touched to receive a handwritten note from faraway.

When I discovered Guy Thomas Hibbert‘s first book Paris Postcards, I was intrigued. These short stories, set in Paris from the 1920s to the present day, eloquently describe the lives of a motley mix of characters. Upon reading their tales, these Parisians immediately take residence in your mind. Whether it’s a weary soldier finding his way in post-war Paris; a reputable right bank waiter whose status quo life suddenly reveals a twist of fate; an overzealous poet who falls in love with the wrong woman. The thread that weaves all eleven of these short stories together is a mysterious Paris postcard. This postcard proves a clue to each one of these heartfelt compositions. In the words of Hibbert, “In these stories I wanted to explore the mystique of Paris – how it has proved to be such a magnetic draw for romantics, artists, adventurers and lost souls.” And that, he does.

I’m sure this book will become a favorite! If you’re looking for more books about Paris, here are my Paris Picks.

Finding Purpose in Paris

To end the year, I’m sharing a post I wrote for Urbansider, a new Paris insider’s guide that I’m proud to be a part of. As one of their first ‘Urbansiders’ I wrote about my experience of moving to Paris, already nine years ago, and how I slowly but resolutely found my way. I welcome you to read more of my Urbansider articles here. 

It was my first week in Paris. A new chapter was about to be written, and it was up to me how the pages would be filled. The late summer sun teased me with endless sunsets in hues of pink and gold. I walked along the Seine wrapped in love, the kind that resides within and often takes years to discover. My journey had taken me around the world and back again, with Paris as my new backdrop, and a soulful Italian center stage.

My thoughts were only of the present moment. What I had lived and learned years prior was now part of my rich and varied history. This life that I had often dreamt about was my present. In all truth, a gift. The future yet unknown, filled with endless possibilities, was waiting in the wings to reveal itself.

Those first weeks quickly turned into months, as leaves fell and blue skies turned gray. My mood too, changed with the seasons as I tried to understand who I was in this new life. More accurately, who did I want to become? I spent those early days coming to peace with my ego and listening more acutely to my soul. Paris was the stage on which to set my dreams in motion, this I was certain of. The question remained, how?

Little by little I found my way, a stranger in a foreign land. Courage was my guide and humility became my teacher. I began to create a name for myself, to design my namesake handbags, to write a blog, and soon afterward to publish articles; to find my place and purpose. In so doing I became my truest self. And for this, I will be forever grateful to Paris.

La Vallée Village

With Paris being the fashion capital and home to so many timeless luxury brands, where better to shop the outlets? Namely those French brands we all covet, including Céline, Longchamp, and Lacoste. Having just returned from La Vallée Village, a 45-minute drive, bur or train ride outside of Paris, I can honestly say this is the most stunning outlet shopping center I’ve had the pleasure to visit and shop at. And with 120 international brands at at least 33% off retail prices, open 7 days a week, what’s not to love?

La Vallée Village resembles an actual village, with tree-lined pedestrian streets and pastel-colored facades.

Here’s a little secret. The famous bi-annual Paris sales or soldes as we call them, begin a week early here!

There are plenty of cafes in which to take a break from the thrill of shopping and find serenity over a plate of Ladurée macarons, or hot chocolate from La Maison du Chocolat. At new restaurant Menu Palais, taste cuisine created by expert chef Stéphane d’Aboville in an elegant setting echoing the Mini Palais in Paris.

La Vallée Village is just as fashionable as its shops, all dressed up in festive decor for the holiday season.

The highlight of my visit, aside from the shopping of course, was the lighting ceremony, in which the myriad of lanterns lit up, along with the dozens of facades lining this shopping village. It was musical group Les Parisiennes that officiated the ceremony, followed by an animated concert. (See the ladies on the balcony?)

If you’re planning your own trip to La Vallée Village, which I highly recommend, the easiest way from Paris is via RER A “Val d’Europe” Station or by Shopping Express® Shuttle Service: twice daily from Place des Pyramides.

Paris to London

I’ve always loved London. Just a quick Eurostar ride away, it’s easy to spend a few days in this dynamic city. My most recent trip across the channel inspired me to design a London bag collection since my bags do love to travel. On a recent afternoon I met with photographer Catherine O’Hara at one of my beloved locations in Paris, Palais Royal. I dressed in the latest Koshka Mashka attire – a perfect compliment to Kasia Dietz handbags! Here’s the Kensington tote, waterproof and as always, reversible. Isn’t tartan timelessly elegant and stylish?

Nothing like stopping for a coffee with a little people watching at cafe Le Nemours. The Shoreditch tote is named for this eclectic and artsy London neighborhood.

In the past I had designed an extra-large tote bag, and soon sold out of it. The XL style is back, this time inspired by Notting Hill. This tote too is reversible, revealing a floral side. The perfect weekender!

To thank you for your continuous support, and since today is Small Business Saturday, I’m offering 30% off all Kasia Dietz handbags until November 30th using code: shopsmall. Happy shopping!

Gourmet Street Food in Paris

Leave it to culinary genius Thierry Marx to create street food, the gourmet and organic version that is. I had the good fortune of meeting this two-Michelin star chef a few years ago during a day discovering his Parisian life, and became an instant fan. Welcome to his latest venture opened just weeks ago, Marxito, a collaboration between Marx and Marseilles designer Ora Ito.

What exactly is Marxito? According to Marx, it’s “two softly puffed buckwheat buns filled with products mainly from plant origin, coming from organic agriculture”. Naturally, I had to try for myself.

These sweet and savory delicacies are all made to order, fusing Brittany (Marx’s hometown) with Japan. Out of the four sandwich options, I chose pink salmon pickle (smoked salmon, avocado, Japanese radish, romaine lettuce, miso sauce and basil), with a side of quinoa salad and Japanese tea. Heavenly!

Not to mention the matcha crepe that followed. Hard to resist, considering Marx’s reputation for desserts.

What takes the cake at Marxito is not only favoring small, local producers but the staff, hired from Thierry Marx’s school, Cuisine Mode d’Emploi(s), which helps the unemployed gain new skills in the culinary world.

Marxito // 1bis Rue Jean Mermoz, 75008 // +33 (0)1 47 20 92 02 // Monday-Friday 8-5:30

Paris Picks: Local Designers

As a Paris-based designer who offers fashion tours and writes about fashion, I have the privilege of becoming well acquainted with fellow creators, most of whom possess a passion for designing and producing locally. The made in Paris movement is alive and well! I mentioned some of these designers in my recent Haut Marais feature in the Independent. Here are a few of these artisans that I hope you can discover and become equally enamored with during your next trip to Paris. Let them know I sent you for a truly VIP experience!

One of my favorite Paris designers is Mari of Koshka Mashka. I first discovered her Haut Marais boutique while living around the corner, and quickly fell in love with the brand. Her clothes are timelessly chic and feminine. Born in Armenia and schooled in Italy, Mari is certainly a woman of the world, dressing equally sophisticated women from all corners of the globe. What’s more, her clothing is limited edition and made in Paris.

Koshka Mashka // 36 Rue de Poitou 75003 // +33 (0)9 50 48 85 85 // Monday-Saturday 11-7

Shoes as art, anyone? Artisanal designer Zoe Lee creates sculptural shoes featuring her wood and resin heels and other signature details, using only the best leather. Zoe designs shoes for both comfort and style, each pair produced in limited editions, manufactured in Italy, and only available in Paris, the Haut Marais that is.

Zoe Lee // 19 Rue du Parc Royal 75003 // +33 (0)1 48 87 05 47 // Tuesday-Sunday 12-7

I first met Swedish-born Anika at my local manufacturer and soon after discovered her boutique, one of the first to open up in the Haut Marais. Her sophisticatedly deconstructed separates have become collectors pieces for women from around the world. Anika also specializes in leather pants, both slim and a more casual slouchy fit. And have I mentioned her butter leather skirts? Heavenly! Oh, and she custom tailors to fit.

Anika Skarstrom // 16 Rue du Pont aux Choux 75003 // +33 (0)9 83 82 32 85 // Monday-Friday 11-7, Sat 12-7

Since I met Charlotte several years ago, she moved from the rive droite to the rive gauche, where she continues to create stunning silk print blouses and dresses, along with luxurious cashmere sweaters and a number of unique accessories. Her scarves and neck ties are personal favorites, and if there’s a particular fabric you like, she may very well be able to create something just for you.

Charlotte Bialas // 67 Rue Madame, 75006 // +33 (0)1 57 40 69 10 // Tuesday-Saturday 11-7

Here’s a designer who took a vintage scarf and transformed it into an elegant blouse, a signature piece he is known for. Samy has a style all his own, mixing the old with the new to create unique womenswear. As he once told me, “I take something I know and twist it into something new.” To add to his artisanal allure, Samy still creates samples in his Haut Marais atelier.

Samy Chalon // 24 Rue Charlot 75003 // +33 (0)1 44 59 39 16 // Tuesday-Saturday 11:30-7:30

Luxembourg Palace

Every year during the weekend of European Heritage Days the doors of some of Paris’s most exclusive addresses open to the public. The only question is – Which monumental building to discover? This year we decided to visit the Luxembourg Palace, set in the bucolic Luxembourg Gardens and home to the French Senate.

This princely estate was built at the request of Marie de Medicis, with construction completed in 1630. After becoming home to a number of kings and queens, the palace became a prison. It wasn’t until the 1800s that the Luxumbourg Palace adopted a governmental role. In 1958 it became home to the Senate of the Fifth Republic.

Okay, enough about the history of Luxembourg Palace, ready for a tour of the centuries old interior chambers?

Office of the Vice President of the Senate, shown to the public for its patrimonial relevance. The current offices are are at 26 and 36 rue de Vaugirard.

Once called the Great Gallery, this is now the Library Annex. The first European painting museum was open to the public here from 1750 to 1780, and another museum for contemporary art from 1803 to 1815 and 1818 to 1886. The vaulted ceiling reveals a series of paintings by Jacob Jordaens representing the Twelve Signs of the Zodiac. Here too sits a bronze bust by American sculptor Jo Davidson of Literature Nobel Prize winner Anatole France, who once worked in the library.

The Victor Hugo Lounge owes its name to the bust sculpted by Antonin Mercié in 1889 of illustrious writer and Parliamentarian Victor Hugo who was a senator during the Third Republic.

The Conference Hall, a perfect example of Second Empire style, was designed by Alphonse de Gisors. Here sits a throne where Napoleon I once sat. Depictions of the history of France line the walls, along with eights tapestries from the Gobelins illustrating Ovid’s Metamorphoses. Senators now use this elegant 57 meters long room as a lounge in between meetings.

The Senate Chamber built from 1836 to 1841 is supported by eight stucco columns separated by seven statues of prestigious legislators. The 348 seats are allocated in proportion to the number of members in every political group with each senator having a designated seat.

View of the Luxembourg Gardens from the vast library where senators spend time reading and researching.

The Questeur’s Office where three Questeur’s manage the Senate’s administrative matters and run its budget.

Office of the President of the Senate, and thought to be the study of then First Consul Napoleon Bonaparte.

Monumental stairway by Boffrand featuring a stone balustrade, at the mansion used for offical receptions.

If you find yourself in Paris during European Heritage Days, take a tour for yourself! Now, where to next year…

Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen

Ready to go treasure hunting in Paris? I spend many of my weekends at the Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen, just outside of the city. Only open Saturday, Sunday and Monday, it has quickly become a favorite place and where I often lead private tours. Founded in 1885, the largest flea market in the world is composed of a total of 14 markets. Where to begin? Marché Vernaison is the first of the markets, and the most characteristic, if you’re in search of treasures in every form.

At Marché Vernaison you can find that rare item you’ve been searching your whole life for, whatever it may be. Each of the over 300 stalls specializes in anything from tableware to vintage clothing to ancient posters.

What’s more, the Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen offer the ideal place to look for one-of-a-kind souvenirs.

While shopping, stop by the famous (and very kitschy) Chez Louisette where you’ll feast on French specialties to the soundtrack of Edith Piaf melodies, sang live of course. It’s undoubtedly an experience!

Another of my favorite markets is Paul Bert, connected to Serpette and where you can dine at Philippe Starck’s Ma Cocotte, should you opt for a more gourmet meal. The décor alone is worth the visit!

Serpette boasts some of my favorite luxury bags and vintage fashion vendors, Le Monde du Voyage (Allée 5 Stand 15) and Patricia Attwook (Allée 2 Stand 7) respectively. Here too, discover dazzling vintage jewelry including pieces by Chanel and Schiaparelli is presented by famed collector Olwen Forest (Allée 3, stand 5).




One of my most cherished treasures from the Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen is French linen, found at Allée 2 Stand 111 at Paul Bert. Here you can weave in and out of the dozens of stalls, where mid-century modern furniture mingles with modern art. And a well-curated selection of antiques.

What about the other 11 markets at Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen? I’m happy to acquaint you in person. Sign up for a tour with me, here.

Lights. Camera. Klimt!

Ready to be captivated? If you’re in Paris before November 11th, discover Atelier des Lumières, Paris’s first digital art center featuring 120 video-projectors. The space, a former 19th-century iron foundry in the 11th arrondissement, opened this past April with the show Klimt and Vienna. “We cross over 100 years of Viennese painting through the pictorial work of Gustav Klimt (1862-1918), Egon Schiele (1890-1918) and Friedensreich Hundertwasser (1928-2000) thanks to a breathtaking visual and sound show.”

Here I take you on a little journey to discover these artists like you’ve never seen them before. Personally, I’ve only ever seen something as magical at Carrières de Lumières in Baux-de-Provence while visiting Baumanière.

This is a difficult experience to capture well on film or video, and one that merits a visit. You will thank me!

Vive la France!

The energy in Paris is contagious, following a monumental weekend of celebrations beginning with Bastille Day and ending with France winning the World Cup, this being France’s second win, the first in 1998. The air is light and smiles are shared widely, albeit many are weary from a night of revelry. With sparkling eyes from the previous night of fireworks, I joined a few expat friends at a local haunt and the cheering began. What I noticed as I glanced around the crowds gathered at every bar and café, were the number of foreigners cheering for a land they have come to love. Regardless of the winning team, these global games unite us all.

To a soundtrack of honking cars and cheers from all directions, Queen’s song “We Are The Champions” blasting through the air, my Italian and I walked around our Marais neighborhood, the streets pulsing with energy.

Allez les bleus! Flags were eagerly waved from every car and window, some even worn by those more daring.

A celebratory atmosphere took over every café and I could only imagine similar scenes all over the country.

Place de la République proved to be the grandest party of all, aside from what took place on the Avenue des Champs-Élysées. Cheers to you France, may this uplifting spirit continue long after the high of winning fades.

 

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